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HardCharger

Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila
Posts: 735

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

Just to resurrect this as this thread is the latest version, I recently had to replace the bolts on my steering box and of course do the alignment after. The steering wheel was off center and we tried to rectify it by trying to remove the wheel and reposition to center but the last guy to work on the truck apparently had an ax to grind with the locking nut put the nut back too tightly

Now no amount of tugging or wiggling could remove it. We tried WD-40, tried to use a normal puller as we didn't have a proper steering wheel puller, nothing.

Just to give you guys an idea, when trying to remove the wheel, we brace ourselves and shake and wiggle the wheel with enough force to shake the whole truck while doing it! We even tried tag-teaming it when one guy was tired, another would continue and this round robin of shaking still didn't loosen it!

They wound up adjusting it from the steering bits below to get the steering wheel more or less center.

I'm thinking that since it's still a bit off, I'd get even with the bloke that over tightened it by letting him properly center the thing.

I just need to schedule a visit to him for the fun to begin.

In the meantime, any more suggestions or tips to help remove it, in the event removal is necessary in the near future, would be appreciated.

Worse comes to worst, I'll have to murderize it by hacking away at it and replacing it with a new steering wheel (expensive!)

24th Oct 2019 8:50am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17373

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

If it is that firmly stuck on the taper, your only choices really are to remove the column cowl behind the wheel to provide enough back-clearance to fabricate a puller, or to destroy the wheel by cutting it.

Before doing this, I would suggest checking the misaligment of the wheel by centring the steering box first, if you haven't already done so. Some boxes are drilled for a centring bolt which passes through notch in the back of the drop arm into the bottom face of the box, which provide a positive centre. Later boxes don't have this (value engineering again!) but you can still centre the box by counting the turns lock-to-lock and noting the steering wheel positions at either lock (with the drag link disconnected so the lock-stops don't limit travel), and then figuring out the number of turns and wheel position from either extreme to the mid-point. It may be that the steering wheel is straight but the drag link needs adjusting.

I have never understood what kind of halfwit tightens steering wheel nuts that tight; doing so just indicates a profound lack of any kind of mechanical understanding or common sense and suggests that the person doing it shouldn't be allowed near tools!

24th Oct 2019 9:28am

Yulong

Member Since: 18 Nov 2017
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 110

Very careful application with a heat gun?

24th Oct 2019 7:40pm

Cupboard

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey

To update this thread... I had issues remove my steering wheel recently. Didn't have a big enough puller, no tapped holes to use etc etc.

Tried thwacking it with a rubber mallet and a dead blow, nothing. Wiggling didn't have any effect, nor penetrating oil.

What did work incredibly well was an air hammer on the back. One quick burst of the trigger and the wheel was off before I'd even blinked.

31st May 2021 10:40am

Plump Donkey

Member Since: 02 Sep 2022
Location: Surrey
Posts: 3

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White

Had this issue myself the other month when I was removing the dash. Unfortunately the wheel had no holes for the tool so tried some heavy longitudinal, Lateral and radial agitation, As much heat as I dare before the wheel melted off, Lots if swearing and sweating that didn't work either, I even tried being nice to it and promising it some new window blocks.

In the end I resorted to drilling a couple of holes and tapping them so I could knock up a puller and it finally came off!

Found a new way to bend 1/2in steel in the process too

2nd Sep 2022 5:34pm

TamarBlue11

Member Since: 25 Sep 2020
Location: England
Posts: 226

This is how I did mine when it wouldn't budge.

Click image to enlarge

2nd Sep 2022 5:40pm

Screbble

Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2100

2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver

I like that ^

Did you leave the ratchet strap on under tension whilst ‘helping’ it release with other activities?

When I did mine a fair few years back the simple hub puller worked (thankfully).

2nd Sep 2022 6:05pm

TamarBlue11

Member Since: 25 Sep 2020
Location: England
Posts: 226

Yeah that's it. Was under alot of tension! Then whacked the back of it with a softblow hammer a couple of times and it popped off.

2nd Sep 2022 6:14pm

Bowbearer

Member Since: 12 Aug 2022
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 170

1985 Defender 110 200 Tdi SW Auto Baltic Blue

Luckily I have the old style wheel, made my own puller using the two holes.

Before this tried using hammers and strops, would not come off.

Even now been off a few times, still needs the puller.

3rd Sep 2022 7:34am

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