 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Preparing OE side steps for refurbishment |
 
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289   
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Have started preparing a set of original sidesteps for blasting and painting, the powder coat has stared to fail, and corrosion set in. I’ve managed to get the end caps, aluminium tread plates and rubber backing off by drilling the aluminium rivet heads, that was easy!
The remains of the rivet in the side step have a steel collar/spacer – this is the problem; how do I remove the remaining stub of rivet/spacer to reveal the original hole without distorting / scaring ?  Click image to enlarge many thanks for suggestions Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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25th Aug 2022 3:14pm |
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| Gasket Member Since: 30 May 2020 Location: Manchester Posts: 629 |
Given that there will likely be corrosion inside, I personally prefer to acid dip rather than blast parts like this.
In your circumstance the dipping will also remove any corrosion and oxidation around the fixings so should make it easier to remove after. Depends on your local place - I use a workshop up in preston to dip car parts but there might be somewhere near you. Pricing is usually comparable to blasting. |
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25th Aug 2022 4:10pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553 
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As an ex sheet metal worker I have drilled out 100s of rivets. If you ever need to drill out a rivet, the best way is to punch the centre through before drilling. The hard section is steel so the drill tends to wander to the side if you don't. We used to use an unused rivet to punch through the old rivet. You are likely to damage the rivet doing this so be aware of this if you don't have spare rivets - alternatively use a thin punch. However, as you have drilled the rivet already, you can do a similar action by gripping that part with mole grips, or if you have a good grip, a set of pliers using the serrated centre part. Use the same diameter drill that you would use when fitting the rivets and try your best not to enlarge the hole. Alternatively you could chisel it off then push the remaining part through - try not to elongate the hole and be aware you may mark the steel. You may also be able to force the centre part through with a centre punch. Another thing to remember, the bit of the rivet inside the tube will remain in there unless there is a hole that is big enough to tip them out of. Shouldn't really be an issue in this application but they can rattle about! |
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26th Aug 2022 7:20am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3641 
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Just done mine
drilled out rivets and removed plastic bits of the step and chequer plate removed end cap rivets and end caps using hack saw cut across the the remainder of rivet level with tube and then tapped the remaining bit into the tube chucked steps on the bonfire to burn off original coating cut last 2 inches off each end (rusty bits) wire brushed repainted with rattle can fitted riv nuts into original holes dinitroled interior of tubes stainless dome head screws and flat washers to reassemble plastic step bit and chequer plate end caps back on look great and cost circa £15 and I bet they dont rust as quickly this time DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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26th Aug 2022 7:55am |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289
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Thanks all,
Gasket : good thought, I had considered acid dipping but nobody near Salisbury Mossberg : I looked at drilling them out further, I think there is a steel mandrel in the rivet, I might have a go with the use of a parallel punch. LR90XS2011 : Thanks, if drilling or punching don't work I guess hacksaw or angle grinder option, glad someone other than me has been able to do a refurbishment. Many thanks all  Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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26th Aug 2022 7:50pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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A pop rivet is basically an aluminium tube with a flanged head. This has a steel section (mandrel) that passes through the tube and this has a wide section (the same as outside diameter of the "tube") that is on the end of the tube that is pushed through the hole of what you are securing to.
It is important that the rivet fits snug into the fixing hole. Our main rivets were 3/16" or 4.8mm. For this we used a 4.9 or 5mm drill bit. When you use the rivet you put the item you want to secure in position over the part you want to fix it to. You then drill the correct size hole, insert the rivet and use a rivet tool to "pull" the rivet. This pulls the mandrel back out of the hole and the wide section forces the "tube" to expand as it is drawn through - this what provides the grip holding the two things together. The mandrel has a weak point that breaks when at the correct tension and leaves a section of the steel mandrel inside the aluminium pop rivet. When removing a rivet you can use different methods. Chiselling where you force the chisel under the head of the rivet and cut the "tube". Grinding where you literally grind the flanged bit of the rivet away. Bothe these methods can damage the part you are removing by damaging its surface and also, when chiselling, you can elongate the hole and distort the material. When drilling out a rivet you have a couple of options. Use the correct size drill for the rivet where you can drill right through the rivet as this should not damage the fixing hole, or a larger diameter drill where you stop as soon as the flage becomes free. In all the above cases (except for grinding where it doesn't matter) it is good practice to force the part of the mandrel that is still inside the rivet, through and out of the rivet body. This means you are only then dealing with the soft aluminium section of the rivet and will be a lot easier to deal with. To do this a good method is to use a centre punch to start the steel section moving, so it is sitting below the level of the head - then use a pin punch to force it through. Chances are you won't have a pin punch of the correct diameter so I used to use another rivet, though this can be a bit awkward. NOTE you only need the steel section to sit deep enough for you to be able to drill the rivet that is within the material - after that the rivet that is left should push through as you drill. It is important to try and push the steel section through the rivet before you attempt removal. If you don't you could end up with the following problems - when chiselling you are more likely to elongate the hole - when drilling the drill can wander off centre as its easier to cut aluminium than steel, which again can damage the fixing hole. However, when you are left with a section of the rivet stuck like you have, you will probably be best grinding it off. Just take it slowly until its just about flush then tap it through with a centre punch. You could use a chisel but this may elongate the hole. You could use a hacksaw but this can mark the metal and sometimes the rivet will start to spin when part way through which just leads to cursing and swearing. And finally, as if I haven't waffled on enough already, when drilling rivets out you may well end up with lots of aluminium rivet heads stuck on your drill. The easiest method I have used to remove them is to simply get a stout pair of pliers with the serrated centre bit, grab the rivet with this, grip like crazy and slowly start to drill. Twist the pliers back and forth and this should open the hole enough for it to come off. So, when you have finished reading this you can sit back, put your head in your hands and think "well that is five minutes of my life I won't get back!" PS : for rust removal look at electrolysis. It's simple, works, but is addictive! Good luck with your task, I hope I haven't board you to the extent you have lost the will to live 😉 Mick |
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27th Aug 2022 4:25am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1999
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Also worth a read https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic70413...tep+refurb. I’m sure there is another more detailed topic on here regarding using rivnuts in a side step referb .
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27th Aug 2022 12:26pm |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289
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Again many thanks for all the advice and insight - This is why the D2N forum is amazing
Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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3rd Sep 2022 8:53am |
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