DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Puma 2.4 not starting ..... immobiliser???

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma 2.4 not starting ..... immobiliser???

Page 8 of 12

3 ...

Print this entire topic ·

Scarvister87

Member Since: 08 Feb 2020
Location: Shetland
Posts: 6

Thank you Martin that did the trick starts first time every time.
Cheers 👍

8th Feb 2020 9:03pm

ArielDangaran

Member Since: 09 Jul 2020
Location: Tuguegarao City
Posts: 2

Hi problem with defender 2011
P1602-31
Lost commu ication on PCM and no immobilizer indicator blinking on the cluster

9th Jul 2020 4:30am

ArielDangaran

Member Since: 09 Jul 2020
Location: Tuguegarao City
Posts: 2

Hello
Can anyone help me diagnose a trouble code of p1602-31 on a defender 2011
The symtoms was alarm buzzes than low car batterry replaced and it does not start anymore
The key fob with two button remote is working on doorlocks
Thanks for anyhelp you can give.

10th Jul 2020 11:39pm

AJTagri

Member Since: 10 Nov 2020
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2

2007 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Baltic Blue

Hi. Can any one explain how to do the instrument cluster bypass to get my 2007 2.4 puma running again ?
Thanks

10th Nov 2020 10:24am

Martin
Site Admin

Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6611

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red

Look for my post at the bottom of page 7

1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top

2015 D90 XS SW

10th Nov 2020 10:32am

Martin
Site Admin

Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6611

Page 7 of this thread

1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top

2015 D90 XS SW

10th Nov 2020 11:10am

AJTagri

Member Since: 10 Nov 2020
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2

Thanks for the help. All sorted

10th Nov 2020 4:54pm

Martin
Site Admin

Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6611

Thanks for taking the time to come back and report it worked

1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top

2015 D90 XS SW

10th Nov 2020 9:22pm

JonnyM92

Member Since: 15 Sep 2015
Location: Lancs
Posts: 17

Similar issue here on my 2011 2.4.
Won’t even attempt to turn over, nothing. Lights illuminate as normal & vehicle locks and unlocks ok.
I did get it going yesterday - disconnected batter, reseated relays & fuses, unplugged the green 10AS box & plugged back in.
It worked and was ok for the afternoon.
Come to move today & started ok and moved but then hasn’t started since. Doing the above still didn’t work.
I’ve had the battery on charge for the afternoon but still no joy.

Any ideas before I get it towed to my indy garage?

23rd Nov 2020 7:48pm

vinny

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: Dundalk
Posts: 9

Hi Martin I’ve had constant problems trying to find the P068a issue and tried connecting pins 3&4. It started straight away. I now have the clocks in pieces and can’t see a problem with the solder on the board!

Pins 3 and 4 are on the top right and the tracks lead to the 2 unused holes to the right of the pins. Can I solder some wire in these holes to make the connection?

16th Mar 2021 10:32pm

vinny

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: Dundalk
Posts: 9

Soldered the no 3 and 4 pins together today and so far so good. Had to clear the faults from the ecu but otherwise easy fix.

18th Mar 2021 8:26pm

vinny

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: Dundalk
Posts: 9

Well that didn’t last long. Problem returned with the pcb pins soldered together. Next up is to remove the pins from the plug

Last edited by vinny on 22nd Mar 2021 8:29pm. Edited 1 time in total

19th Mar 2021 10:05pm

vinny

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: Dundalk
Posts: 9

Removed pins from the plug and joined them. Problem now solved... again

21st Mar 2021 10:53pm

MarkHornby

Member Since: 25 Mar 2021
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 1

2007 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey

I had this problem at the end of 2019. My mechanic had the car for a couple of months - then bang - Lockdown 1.0. My mechanic had to shield due to medical issues and nothing happened on the car for a few months. The pin 3 and 4 link trick didn’t work and everything else we tried made no difference. In desperation I bought a 2.5 TD5 engine and an R380 gearbox plus many other bits and the car is being re-created as a FrankenFender. After 15 months without it I’m looking forward to finally hearing the thing fire up soon. I’m not too bothered about replacing the engine as the original 2.4 Transit engine had major problems anyway and would only have lasted a few thousand miles more - if that. Yes it’s a drastic solution to a non starting Puma but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and do what needs doing.

25th Mar 2021 6:29pm

JBLancs

Member Since: 17 Oct 2019
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 40

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver

Martin wrote:
If the rpm needle moves during cranking it probably isn’t the crank sensor.

The "shunt" is actually a bypass of the wiring of the immobiliser comms link through the instrument pack.

Land Rover did this themselves when the 2.2 was introduced.

You need to access the instrument pack connector, remove it and make a temporary link between pins 3 and 4 with the likes of a straightened out plain metal paper clip.

If it now fires, your problem is the immobiliser link and you have two options:

Send the instrument pack for repair of the soldering of the socket to the PCB (I can do this for you through my business) - or do it yourself if capable

Alternatively dismantle the connector and remove pins 3 and 4 (light green and grey wires to both) and join them permanently. Or if you like, cut the light green and grey wires where they enter the connector and join the loom sides together permanently, bypassing the cluster.

This makes the comms link between the 10AS alarm/immobiliser and the ECU a single wire without the instrument pack in the circuit (as per the 2.2).

The instrument pack will now log a fault if diagnosed as it does not see an incoming signal from the immobiliser, but this does not affect the instrument pack or vehicle operation whatsoever.

Also I feel this is NOT a security issue as the immobiliser itself is not bypassed, and this factory design of "in and out" wiring via the instrument pack only means that the engine won’t start if the instrument pack is missing.

However a missing instrument pack would be no problem for a thief as bridging 3 and 4 (on the now easily accessible connector) restores the link, which is clear from the wiring diagrams.

I fixed a 2010MY basic spec Puma with this issue last week. It would crank, and the RPM needle moved, but an signal tester showed the ECU wasn’t firing the injectors at all. Bridging 3 and 4 allowed it to start straight away

This looks like exactly the issue I have had with mine. Currently the two wires for the loom have been cut and joined permanently together. Knowing this now an instrument cluster repair would have been a nicer repair. Does anyone know of a source for the connector plug and pins into the back of the instrument cluster? Connector C1040.

19th Feb 2022 4:36pm

Page 8 of 12

3 ...

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum