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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7906

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
I think a block would look ok, if painted black externally. Bricks do look nicer though.

I'd be concerned how they tie a solid 100mm thick block to the floor? In my experience, a block bedded on just mortar on a concrete slab has no strength and the slightest knock sees them breaking away.

The photo you posted has hollow blocks with rebar no doubt embedded in the slab to tie it all together, much stronger. James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
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Post #857669 23rd Sep 2020 4:47pm
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3757

United Kingdom 
The picture was a Google image of what I thought was similar as it happens they have got 'holes' in them


Your right the block they want me to use are solid. I 'think' they are drilling through the frame, down through the block? not sure if they go right through to the concrete base?

Its a wooden garage so the weight of the whole thing I guess will keep it all down? doubt its moving


They seem to sound like they know what they are doing Very Happy I hope so
Post #857670 23rd Sep 2020 4:59pm
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v8bob



Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 319

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
There are a multitude of stone effect blocks. I would think some must be at least the 7Nm.
But as said, if it is just one layer I would want some extra anchorage.
If you put a workbench against them and get a bit heavy handed it will soon make them loose.
Post #857674 23rd Sep 2020 5:10pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2656

Scotland 
This is mine. Engineering bricks and larch cladding. Ignore the fact that the slab is proud of the ground, this is due to varying ground level across the site. On a flat site only the bricks would be visible and the cladding would finish around 150mm above ground level.


Click image to enlarge


For holding the wall down these are the straps I used - visible here before the internal wall sheathing went on. Bolted into the slab as mentioned.


Click image to enlarge
Post #857683 23rd Sep 2020 5:50pm
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3757

United Kingdom 
^ That's a neat easy solution for holding the walls down.


Our ground 'level' is far from that, the areas all over the place..


I think it maybe we do it using the blocks and just see what its like.
Post #857686 23rd Sep 2020 5:56pm
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3310

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
I need to start on a new garage soon. Are you guys digging foundations or using a floating slab? I have nearby tree roots I'd rather not disturb. WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm.
Post #857688 23rd Sep 2020 6:06pm
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3757

United Kingdom 
zed....


Tree roots.... Oh my .......follow my other build thread.

I've had some trees removed and stumps ground out...

Then we had 3 tree stubs behind where I need to shutter up to. I will add pictures soon on the other thread as we only removed the last weekend.

I'm re floating where the old garage was but the new ones a big bigger. I also moved 6 tonne of crush last weekend and need more... wait until you see our garden.


Its turned into a bigger job Rolling with laughter
Post #857689 23rd Sep 2020 6:14pm
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3310

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
It always turns into a bigger job.

The boss thinks I'm building a new log store... WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm.
Post #857693 23rd Sep 2020 6:18pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2656

Scotland 
Mine is on a single mass concrete ‘floating’ slab. The ground is almost solid slate waste so no need for strip foundations given it’s a timber structure, though if I had built it in blockwork I would have done it that way.

If you’ve got clay or the like then all bets are off and you’re into structural engineer territory.
Post #857696 23rd Sep 2020 6:23pm
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3310

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
We are on clay. I guess that means I'll be playing on the digger then? WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm.
Post #857699 23rd Sep 2020 6:25pm
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the gamekeeper



Member Since: 01 Jan 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 96

England 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Tonga Green
Clay is the worst you will have to deal with heave when you cut the water demand from the trees, also consider hedge planting this may be a high water demand too.
Post #857761 23rd Sep 2020 8:45pm
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Ads90



Member Since: 16 Jun 2008
Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds
Posts: 812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
stew 46 wrote:
There frame work ( should ) sit flush with the out side of the block work on a DPC and your cladding should come down past the block work by at least 50 MM , it’s better if the inside edge of the cladding that oversails past a top of the block work is 10-15 of the face of the block work as that’s a wet wall .
Stew

Agree - those were existing garages I extended/modified for clients - pics to show the weathered concrete blockwork.
This is one of my own, on edge of conservation area so I had brickwork covering the blockwork, lead flashing dressed up behind breather membrane & lapped over top of plinth:


Click image to enlarge
Post #857819 24th Sep 2020 8:30am
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Rosco



Member Since: 03 Dec 2010
Location: Burntwood
Posts: 1833

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Scott, have you looked at split face block?

http://www.besblock.com/splitFace.php 2007 - Stornoway Grey 90 XS SW - Gone
2002 - Black Discovery II - Gone
2014 - Montalcino Red 110 XS SW
Post #857899 24th Sep 2020 3:41pm
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3757

United Kingdom 
Rosco

I have not seen them thanks, I will stop at my local builder merchants and talk bricks with them. I'm coming round to the pictures of the blocks as they are, the concrete in front of the garage will have gravel to finish off and it may not look so in your face... once everything else is done Smile


so a couple of weeks ago this was our garden...




Click image to enlarge



couple of weekends later




Click image to enlarge




and currently it looks even worse as we aim to not only to sort the base for the garage but we have now also attempted to level our garden a bit and install a soak away Smile
Post #857915 24th Sep 2020 5:18pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Zed wrote:
I need to start on a new garage soon. Are you guys digging foundations or using a floating slab? I have nearby tree roots I'd rather not disturb.


Just saw a video on these ground screws yesterday and the system looked interesting:



There's something in the comments quoting "The cost was about £100 per screw installed, this can vary on quantity, length, location etc," and "A concrete slab that is engineered not to fail and meet building regulations for this build would need to be a proper reinforced raft and it would cost well over 10k maybe even 15k".

https://www.facebook.com/GravitasGS/


Click image to enlarge
Post #858191 26th Sep 2020 8:30am
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