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Home > Technical > 2013 110 Puma - clunk noise from rear

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Tumbiri

Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: Caribbean
Posts: 52

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey

HardCharger, sorry, I have no experience with the grease-able ball joint but seeing that the Genuine part got rid of my problem. I would hesitate to use anything else, unless it is a Land Rover part, I guess.

As for my drive train, it is still good (61,000Km), no excessive play; the occasional noise when I mess up the gear changes.

11th Jun 2020 10:47pm

carrotbay

Member Since: 18 Aug 2013
Location: Northants, UK
Posts: 699

2008 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel XS CSW Auto Santorini Black

I’ve had a similar ‘clunk’ for a while now and have been replacing drive flanges for one piece ones and rebushing pretty much everything. Last resort has been to rebush the A frame and change the ball joint.

How are you supposed to get that to 176Nm when you can’t get a socket to it? .. even a shallow one can’t get on. Is there a special ultra shallow 30mm socket I should be using?

Thanks 2008 Defender 110 XS SW - M57N2 / 6HP28X

16th Jun 2020 6:22pm

Tumbiri

Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: Caribbean
Posts: 52

Checked with my mechanic. He used a ring spanner and tightened as much as he could. Can't get a torque wrench in there unless with some special adapter tool. The nut is locked with a split pin so it won't back out.

16th Jun 2020 11:43pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3674

I got a shallow socket in mine, was tight though. Was tough to get the correct torque laid on your back under the vehicle!

17th Jun 2020 5:03am

carrotbay

Member Since: 18 Aug 2013
Location: Northants, UK
Posts: 699

Do you know what brand of socket you used? 2008 Defender 110 XS SW - M57N2 / 6HP28X

17th Jun 2020 7:28am

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3674

Afraid not, I borrowed it off a mate.

17th Jun 2020 12:19pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

A question for anyone who's done this job (ball-joint replacement) please, did you have any trouble splitting the taper on the balljoint? If so, how did you do it?

It doesn't look as though a conventional ball-joint separator would fit in the limited space available.

Thanks.

17th Jun 2020 12:58pm

Retroanaconda

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2642

To tighten, decent quality (i.e. non-cheese) ring spanner on the nut and then tighten it with your foot bracing against the wheel. Same to loosen it.

With the nut loosened you can get a bar/drift onto the end of the ball joint thread and give it a healthy whack to break the taper. Note that the nut should only be loosened off a few turns for this process as if for whatever reason you were unable to break the taper you would still be able to re-tighten it and use the vehicle. If the nut is removed and the thread damaged in the process of attempted loosening then this may not be possible, leaving you stuck.

17th Jun 2020 1:18pm

Pacha

Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 772

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey

I used a piece of steel bar from underneath and hit it with a decent sized hammer - couple of blows and it separated.

blackwolf wrote:
A question for anyone who's done this job (ball-joint replacement) please, did you have any trouble splitting the taper on the balljoint? If so, how did you do it?

It doesn't look as though a conventional ball-joint separator would fit in the limited space available.

Thanks.

Rgds.

Chris

17th Jun 2020 7:43pm

Tribord

Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: France
Posts: 220

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Zermatt Silver

blackwolf wrote:
Sadly it is often difficult to detect movement except when it clunks, and often the only way to check it is to replace it.

If you do replace it, be aware that removing the old ball-joint from the housing can be extremely difficult and it is usually easier to buy a new bj pre-fitted in the knuckle.

Does anyone know who supplies these? The ones mentioned earlier don't seem to come pre-fitted. Thanks

24th Jun 2020 5:13pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

I know that Glyn Lewis supplies complete ones, with greasable adjustable balljoints, I don't offhand know of standard OEM suppliers. I'm sure someone will be along soon though.

I have just finally managed to remove the pressed in balljoint from the one I'm overhauling, but to get it out I had to run a 50mm Rotabroach cutter through from the back, then it still took 10t on the press to get the remains out.

24th Jun 2020 6:33pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

Family member has a 2.4 and has quite a heavy clunk. He can manage to reduce the clunk between gear change, by sweet control on the clutch.
He asked me to check it, and I felt it really bad when I did this test:
On an incline, brake pressed, released a bit the brake, drive train slack all on one side if you understand what I mean, put in gear and release clutch. There it clunks heavily, taking up all slack in drive train. It does exactly the same when the vehicle is on a descent, and reverse is engaged.

I know he recently went for one piece half shafts, out of a blue box, but no improvement noticed. A frame ball joint does not look bad, although has not been take out for closer inspection. Prop shafts are good.
What are the chances that it is the adapter shaft? Should I also replace the clutch? As for the clutch, vehicle on flat ground, gearbox in 1st gear, engine off, if I push the vehicle back and forth, I can hear what seem to be the springs on the clutch plate squeaking. There is no spring rattle in neutral. Clutch release is smooth. One noticeable difference between his 2.4 and my 2.2, when I put my 2.2 in 1st gear, clutch still depressed, the vehicle wants to move a bit forward, so I think it already takes the slack. I have little to no clunk on my 2.2

Your thoughts are appreciated. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

28th Jul 2020 5:42am

Tribord

Member Since: 20 Apr 2013
Location: France
Posts: 220

Tribord wrote:
blackwolf wrote:
Sadly it is often difficult to detect movement except when it clunks, and often the only way to check it is to replace it.

If you do replace it, be aware that removing the old ball-joint from the housing can be extremely difficult and it is usually easier to buy a new bj pre-fitted in the knuckle.

Does anyone know who supplies these? The ones mentioned earlier don't seem to come pre-fitted. Thanks

Quick update - It sounded like the clunks I was getting were a result of the A frame ball joint, I couldn't find a pre-fitted replacement, so got a new LR one fitted at the garage. After this, I was getting a different clunk, still from the rear but more frequent. I found a lot of movement between the drive shafts and flange, so this afternoon replaced with LOF one piece units - clunk has gone, but more importantly so has all the drive train slack! Wow what a difference! I first mentioned the uncomfortable gear changes in 2013 to LR under warranty - they checked it and told me it was normal. This was repeated a few times over the years and always the same response, so I just adjusted my driving style to make a smooth as possible. Wish I had got around to it much earlier. Highly recommended modification.

btw, I note LOF only do them for the rear. I haven't checked movement on my front wheels - are they typically not a problem?

12th May 2021 8:16pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

The fronts don't seem to fret as badly as the rears, but for obvious reasons a one-piece flange/shaft couldn't be used at the front anyway.

12th May 2021 9:56pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20347

I’ve been getting this, tracked it down to the A frame. I have almost new rear DM and half shafts.
There is movement, a knock from the A frame which is either the top links to chassis bushes gone or the ball joint.
I’ve decided to replace all of it, genuine rubber bushes and the Gwyn Lewis greasable A frame ball joint as a complete unit.
Not cheap! But little point in not doing all three regardless due to age and fixings May as well be replaced too.

It’s not a job I’m going to do myself, however I do have all the parts.
The parts acquisition being made all the more difficult by the confusing parts vs defender age confusion. Of which pre 09 is not M16 fixings and bushes but inertial sizing.

I’ve had good life out of all of it that I have, can’t complain as it all takes a beating!
I thought I may as well get a greaseable ball joint that is pre assembled as it brings labour costs down when fitting and also has the greasing cabal out which should extreme life a little longer too.
Approx £180 to £200 in parts, but exc labour as of yet. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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13th May 2021 3:08pm

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