 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Replacement brake caliper |
 
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554  |
should they both be done at the same time yes
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9th May 2020 3:13pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553  
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Poo!
Disks and pads at the same time? M |
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9th May 2020 3:15pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1917  
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Just fitted the LOF kit, great service, quality and reasonably priced đź‘Ť
 Click image to enlarge 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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9th May 2020 5:07pm |
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| Tommo Member Since: 19 Dec 2013 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 830 
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Like tyres, shocks etc both at same time
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9th May 2020 7:26pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4209 
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I’ve always changed pads and discs in axle sets, but never callipers. I’ve done a lot of them over the years on various cars and it’s never been an issue. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
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9th May 2020 7:53pm |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289 
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When I’ve had sticking or corroded pistons/calipers it has always been recommended that calipers be replaced as a pair – maybe due to asymmetry across the axel, maybe to make more work for the garage?
Might be time to consider a caliper/brake upgrade, but can’t recommend Luke from LOF enough – massively helpful, and spot on knowledge. Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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10th May 2020 7:15am |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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What are the possible upgrades and what are the advantages?
M |
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10th May 2020 7:19am |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289
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Upgrades go from mild to wild in my opinion, and I don’t know what's already fitted but :
Refurbished/new calipers with stainless steel pistons and bleed nipples: choice of colour if you go refurbished, SS pistons and bleed nipples don’t corrode and keep the longevity of the braking system (calipers are replaced due to component corrosion or failure and rarely from structural failure) PTFE overbraded brake hoses : smaller bore and less ballooning of the flexible brake hoses will or should provide better peddle feel, plus they are less likely to perish or degrade like rubber OE ones Brake discs: Many flavours or combinations of groves, dimples, drilled: groves help keep the face of the pad clean ans smooth, and allow any gas or brake dust to escape from the pad:disc interface during braking. Dimples or holes do similar but holes supposedly allow better cooling for the disc, but can act as a point or source for crack prorogation. Pads: Again in many flavours but can provide several advantages over OE including better friction coefficient (more bite), longer life, less disc wear, low dust, higher temperature rating. Downside is that some pads are “race orientated” so work better after been warmed – the hotter they get the better they bite, but I think anything that is R90 is road legal (willing to be corrected) Size upgrades – bigger disc and caliper combination, the wilder end of upgrades. Provides bigger stopping power by 2 factors, larger pad:disc area provided by the uprated caliper and since the caliper is further from the centre of the disc more increasing the braking torque. Down side is that bigger wheels may be needed to clear the caliper since it is now further from the centre, and or chunkier. For refurbishment on calipers this company can do that : http://www.custom-brake-calipers.co.uk/ call Chris up on 07541 786256 or email info@custom-brake-calipers.co.uk For pads, discs, new calipers or bigger brake kits, it has to be Luke at LOF : https://lofclutches.com/store/brakes/ For PTFE brake hose contact Joe at Pioneer4x4, really helpful and can make up any configuration you need; https://pioneer4x4.com/ For a good technical read on brakes and braking : https://www.apcautotech.com/resources/reso...hitepapers if you can forgive the Americans for brutal abuse to the English language.  Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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10th May 2020 8:47am |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226 
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From my own experience grooved and dimpled discs are a complete waste of time. I had a set from EBC and they were terrible. They just corroded in the grooves and dimples (where the recessed surface of the disc is never in contact with the pad), resulting in bad brake judder within 18 months of fitting them. Braking performance was significantly worse than the standard brakes for the duration of their fitment, although I suspect that was largely down to the pad compound.
I will be sticking with standard discs and pads from now on. They were designed to stop the vehicle during its normal operating modes, which is exactly what mine is. Perhaps different if you have a very heavily modified Defender that goes much faster or is much heavier than standard, or you are regularly towing 3.5 tons. Otherwise I'd stick with standard discs and pads. It really isn't worth the expense of upgrades. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green |
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10th May 2020 8:59am |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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To be honest the truck is not my everyday ride and an unmolested 300tdi. I have no real desire to make it go faster at this point.
What l would like to do is make it to last a while as I intend it to be a keeper. I want to do things that will last with my kind of use - that is used once or twice a week, up to 3k miles per year and be used for access to quarries up and down rutted tracks. So it will get wet mud thrown into the underneath on a regular basis and this is something I really do need to consider with any maintenance, modification or upgrades. I want the truck to be mechanically sound rather than look nice or shiny. It has lots of dents and scratches and I don't have any intention to mend those apart from keeping it from falling apart. I want to look after the chassis but understand it may well be changed for a galv one in the future. Any money I spend I want it to be transferable to the chassis when it happens. I suspect I will stay with standard calipers but need to decide what manufacturer. I don't want to overspend on anything as I don't have the cash to waste, but if you need to replace something because it is poor quality then the cost savings isn't actually economical. With that in mind, is it better with a cheaper end caliper and then putting stainless pistons in it to start with? Thanks for all your help, I just need to spend my money wisely so all your views and comments are welcome. M |
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10th May 2020 9:17am |
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| dailysleaze Member Since: 23 May 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 237
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AP branded calipers. Would expect them to be ÂŁ120-140 each. Sometimes you can find take off calipers on eBay for about the same as this.
The cheap ÂŁ40 calipers have no logos on, which doesn't inspire confidence. |
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10th May 2020 9:48am |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289
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I’m in the process of overhauling the brake system on my 110 2.2 Puma daily driver, due to poor maintenance by the previous owner.
So I acquired 4 used genuine JLR AP calipers, SS pistons and seals from Zeus Enginering and sent the lot to Chris at CBC (link in previous comment), the total bill for 4 calipers, pistons, seals, overhaul and shipping from and to was in the region of £600 which sounds a lot but works out at £150 per corner for better than new calipers, with all SS hardware (inc bleed nipples) in gloss anthracite metallic colour and a 4 year warrantee on the finish. Yes I’m adding hoses, discs, pads, and wheel bearings during the completion but for calipers alone, refurbishment is the way to go. Zaid-M www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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10th May 2020 9:51am |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226
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With your described use I would definitely stick with standard brake components. They are more than up to the job, and considerably cheaper than alternatives.
Stainless pistons would be a worthwhile consideration as corrosion on the standard pistons is fairly common, especially with your usage combination of mud / damp driving conditions combined with low mileage. AP Lockhead are the OE manufacturer for brake calipers, so I would advocate sticking with those. Upgraded hoses may also be worth considering if you were going to be replacing the existing ones anyway. I seem to recall that someone does sell AP Lockhead calipers with stainless pistons ready-fitted, but I'm afraid I can't remember who. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green |
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10th May 2020 9:53am |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 289
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Luke at LOF does AP calipers with SS Pistons as compete Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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10th May 2020 9:56am |
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