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CarMan



Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 1862

United Kingdom 
+1 to that Thumbs Up Rob

1993 200tdi 90 hard-top
1998 300tdi 90 soft-top
2016 2.2 XS 90 hard-top (sold)
Post #828008 27th Apr 2020 4:55pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3679

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
BuckBlu110 wrote:
Is this what you mean amschnellsten?
It looks almost too good to be true. If it works as good as it looks on the videos then I’ve got an 88’ tub that’s got few holes that need this treatment.


Anyone tried this? I’ve got some rivnut holes to fill and this looks like a piece of cake. Any tips, pointers?
Post #828022 27th Apr 2020 5:36pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2244

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
I wouldn't put a gas torch anywhere near a skin panel, it will buckle.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #828038 27th Apr 2020 6:32pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3421

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
I have used with good results a product called Alumiweld. Very similar to the product in the videos. I used it to repair rivet holes, approx 5mm, in the rear tub.
Got some distortion in the aluminium, even though it is low heat, but the distortion could have came back from some panel beating done earlier to straighten an accident damage.
The repair material is harder than the aluminum, but still can be filed. I just left the alumiweld just slightly proud, as still needed some body filler to get a smooth panel. At least i know that the filler will not absorb water from behind the panel or crack around the hole. I will try to find a pic of the repair and post it.

I recently tried to repair an AC evaporator, but the oil inside was contaminating the joint and could not get a perfect seal.

Pic added.


Click image to enlarge


By the way, in the promotional video, the molten metal is on a horizontal surface. On a vertical surface, it was a bit more challenging. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black


Last edited by Dinnu on 27th Apr 2020 7:31pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #828039 27th Apr 2020 6:41pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3679

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
I’m toying with removing the RAI and want to remove the rivnuts on the wing. Will this method be too hot for this, and if so what else would the collective recommend?
Apologies to the OP for the thread hijack.
Post #828050 27th Apr 2020 7:21pm
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charcoal



Member Since: 28 Jul 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 942

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Actually come to think of it that may not look so bad with them painted over Mo. Was thinking recently Id get some new chequer plate to put on but actually that sounds a better idea Thumbs Up 1999 Land Rover Defender 110 td5 station wagon
1998 Land Rover Defender 110 County Station Wagon ~ Sold
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 V8 Station Wagon ~ Sold Sad
1985 Land Rover 110 ex mod project Tithonus ~ Sold Sad
Post #828061 27th Apr 2020 8:06pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3421

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Mo Murphy wrote:
I wouldn't put a gas torch anywhere near a skin panel, it will buckle.
Mo


If you do 'spot' heat, the hot zone will expand, while the surrounding metal not, and you get a plastic deformation where you have the largest temperature gradient. Once the panel cools off, it would not return to the original shape.

The trick is to not have a large gradient in temperature. So warming as large of an area as possible, and avoid large gradient in temperature.... gradually go to the required temperature where it is needed. This should avoid plastic deformation of the aluminium, and panel will regain original shape once cooled off.

I did a lot of testing on scrap parts before taking the blow lamp to the 90 panel...and even then, I was very nervous. And yes, the rods I used is not really welding, but is more like soldering. Done shear tests on scrap metal, and they all sheared from the parent metal, and not from the 'weld', indicating good bond can be achieved. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #828118 28th Apr 2020 5:37am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2244

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
That's cool but for most people with no experience and several holes in a relatively small area it will end in tears.
I say this as a metal finisher (I worked in the Vauxhall van plant in a previous life before joining the Ambulance service ), where we used an oxy-acetyline torch to pop small dings out of steel skin panels so that we could file them and for leading.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #828148 28th Apr 2020 8:29am
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TopQ1967



Member Since: 14 Feb 2012
Location: Veghel
Posts: 236

Netherlands 2012 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Buckingham Blue
I have used durafix or alike. It works well, but gets harder than the base metal and thus britle.
Post #829738 7th May 2020 6:20pm
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