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tookaphotoof



Member Since: 18 Mar 2013
Location: dordrecht
Posts: 1279

Netherlands 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Santorini Black

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Post #822663 1st Apr 2020 8:04am
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Roger



Member Since: 26 Apr 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 71

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Java Black
The other option for fixing holes without a welder is to braze them. The rods are really cheap, readily available and while I must confess to having no experience of brazing, it does look like a relatively simple option.
Post #822803 1st Apr 2020 6:46pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1786

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
On aluminium alloy?
Post #822809 1st Apr 2020 7:21pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20443

United Kingdom 
The bonnet is steel inc skin... No Guts, No Glory.
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช
Post #822838 1st Apr 2020 8:29pm
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VVS210



Member Since: 12 Nov 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 953

United Kingdom 
Might be for a Puma but for pre-Puma I thought it was an alloy skin on a steel frame? - am sure that the bonnet on my DCPU had 'ally worm' on it.
Post #822841 1st Apr 2020 8:44pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Only on Puma models. Not on Charcoal's TD5 or anything earlier. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #822842 1st Apr 2020 8:45pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1786

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
I thought that the bonnet on my 100" tdi bitsa was alloy skinned on a steel frame, but it could have come off any age truck - it was in sand glow and fairly beaten up so I did wonder???

Going back a bit more on topic, if you try brazing the middle of a steel panel you'd end up with massive heat distortion.

Paint the chequer plate!!!!

Keith
Post #822993 2nd Apr 2020 6:00pm
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charcoal



Member Since: 28 Jul 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 942

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
On the bonnet I just bought it has some surface rust on the frame so that is definitely steel, dont know about the skin though but there is no rust on the skin. I've never brazed before so not sure its a good option to try, if it'll get heat distortion from brazing it'll probably be the same tig welding then? 1999 Land Rover Defender 110 td5 station wagon
1998 Land Rover Defender 110 County Station Wagon ~ Sold
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 V8 Station Wagon ~ Sold Sad
1985 Land Rover 110 ex mod project Tithonus ~ Sold Sad
Post #822995 2nd Apr 2020 6:06pm
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VVS210



Member Since: 12 Nov 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 953

United Kingdom 
The skin will be alloy, if in doubt try it with a magnet!

If it were me I'd seriously consider keeping the chequer plate as it will help with the structural integrity & give you a suitable surface to rest the wheel on when you lift it on & off the bonnet! My brother has a bonnet spare mounting on his & getting the wheel on & off is such a pain that it has lived in the back most of the 29 years he's had the Ninety!
Post #822997 2nd Apr 2020 6:23pm
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charcoal



Member Since: 28 Jul 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 942

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Ill have to see when it arrives, from the pictures the chequer plate looks too skanky to keep and replacing it might mean more holes for a new piece. The bonnet would be fine without the chequer plate as its especially reinforced to take a wheel. 1999 Land Rover Defender 110 td5 station wagon
1998 Land Rover Defender 110 County Station Wagon ~ Sold
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 V8 Station Wagon ~ Sold Sad
1985 Land Rover 110 ex mod project Tithonus ~ Sold Sad
Post #823003 2nd Apr 2020 6:34pm
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amschnellsten



Member Since: 23 Apr 2020
Location: Nati
Posts: 3

United States 1986 Defender 90 Other SW Alpine White
look for the low heat alloy rods and flux. They braze in very nicely and with very little heat. Its a lot easier and faster than using a tig.
Post #827885 26th Apr 2020 11:01pm
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charcoal



Member Since: 28 Jul 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 942

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
I never brazed before though so dont really want to ruin the bonnet. Was thinking of trying with a tig as at least I somewhat know what Im doing. Got the bonnet now though so am looking to get this sorted out sooner rather than later so it can get painted though. 1999 Land Rover Defender 110 td5 station wagon
1998 Land Rover Defender 110 County Station Wagon ~ Sold
1995 Land Rover Defender 110 V8 Station Wagon ~ Sold Sad
1985 Land Rover 110 ex mod project Tithonus ~ Sold Sad
Post #827892 27th Apr 2020 12:59am
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BuckBlu110



Member Since: 19 Apr 2014
Location: in the pub
Posts: 714

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel CSW Buckingham Blue
Is this what you mean amschnellsten?
It looks almost too good to be true. If it works as good as it looks on the videos then Iโ€™ve got an 88โ€™ tub thatโ€™s got few holes that need this treatment.
Post #827921 27th Apr 2020 8:18am
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VVS210



Member Since: 12 Nov 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 953

United Kingdom 
That looks the business, although I'd question the strength of those joints in the thicker pieces as this seems to be a 'hot glue' rather than a true weld where base & filler metals are melted to form the join. Still looks ideal for filling in holes & other non-structural jobs.
Post #827946 27th Apr 2020 12:16pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2244

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
I always put a rivet in an old rivet hole. The rear tub is full of them so they don't look out of place.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #828003 27th Apr 2020 4:38pm
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