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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Ahhhh, excellent, so it is there!

It's actually the actual stuff.

Actually.

That website wouldn't load yesterday, I could only work from cache which was contradictory and ringing them was painful.

Cheers for prompting me in that direction again. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #552973 1st Aug 2016 11:31pm
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2638

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
I just buy pre-mixed coolant and keep a bottle in the car permanently.

The reservoir cap should be considered a service item, I change it every year after I started noticing coolant loss a few years ago.

Thumbs Up --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #552984 2nd Aug 2016 5:54am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20348

United Kingdom 
That's the only two I know of, Texaco XLC and Motul Inugel Optimal.
The former wasn't easy to get not so long ago, the latter I have now and i think it's better.
Both meet LR tech specs.
Post #553031 2nd Aug 2016 9:25am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Ok,

So yeah, that was painful.

That effing bloody clip on the thermostat!

Easy to get open with vice grips, but then to pull the pipe off with my hands... sheesh that was hard.

Next is getting the dang clip back around the pipe when you're trying to get it back on. The dang vice grips wont open enough if they're in the 'just right closed enough position' - that is until after about 40mins of swearing and tool throwing I figured out a way. In hindsight once the method is learned I actually don't think remote hose clamps are required, but they sure would have saved all my earlier attempts...

Ok, so the picture in the WSM:



I'm sorry, but where and what looks like that?


Next up in the WSM is the statement:

Quote:
Run the engine until the thermostat opens.


"Heh, ok, well I guess it'll be obvious!" was my thinking... But nooooo. I could run a full tank a diesel and I'd still have no idea if it were opened or closed...

I look up the temperature that the thermostat opens: 88deg

"Ah great! I'll just watch the dial until it gets to 88deg!" - oh, um, oh yeah ... Rolling Eyes

Ah but lucky me, I have a GAP diagnostic tool Thumbs Up

Hook it up and get a live feed of coolant temp and cylinder head temp, coolant sits at 57deg constantly while idling in the driveway. Neighbours are getting miffed at the revs, so I take it for a drive, aiming at hills but get stuck behind every old biddy in their Swift/Colt/Funcargo ... Finally after 20mins I get it up to 86deg, stop at the top of hill to stop the radiator getting any airflow and success, 90deg!

By now the expansion tank was back to the 'cold level' instead of 30mm above, so I topped it up again and that was that.

I think??

It's the same now that it's cooled (maybe a snip lower actually).

I'm travelling with funnel and some premixed fluid to top it up if need be, will see how it goes over the next few days.

But far out, while it didn't take as long it was up there with fuel tank removal for annoyance and pain.


PS I forgot my glasses and waved to a G-Class driver thinking it was another 110 - no response Laughing Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #553581 4th Aug 2016 3:55am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8024

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I filled mine as per the instr bit didn't stay out, just let out stand over night with cap off, then top up in morning. Then out for normal drive and check at end. Having been left over night it didn't need any more to top up post the drive
. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #553587 4th Aug 2016 5:35am
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Stu_XS



Member Since: 22 Jul 2018
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 86

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
custom90steve wrote:
That's the only two I know of, Texaco XLC and Motul Inugel Optimal.
The former wasn't easy to get not so long ago, the latter I have now and i think it's better.
Both meet LR tech specs.


Bit of an old thread I know but perhaps useful to know.

Coolants in the Havoline (Chevron /Texaco /Caltex) range are manufactured by a company called Arteco which is a joint venture between Total & Chevron (Total owns the manufacturing facility) and hence there are Total equivalents to these which may be easier or more convenient to source. In this case Coolelf Auto Supra if you want ready to use or Glacelf Auto Supra if you want concentrated.

http://www.lubs-products-database.total.co...7000/27452

http://www.lubs-products-database.total.co...7000/27446 Stu...

2013 Aintree Green 90 XS SW 2.2 Puma
Post #731847 29th Sep 2018 1:02pm
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kmac



Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1309

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Just read the manual instructions posted here to change the coolant

Curious as to why you need to raise the vehicle - is this just for access or does the front need to be raised to allow all coolant to drain out?

Unless i'm taking off a road-wheel I don't raise the vehicle as there is plenty of room to work under there without doing so.
Post #731854 29th Sep 2018 2:41pm
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expatRob



Member Since: 24 Feb 2015
Location: Frankfurt
Posts: 58

Germany 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Tonga Green
good question did you get any answers?
Post #829292 4th May 2020 8:18pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20348

United Kingdom 
There isn't a need to raise the vehicle. But you need to check the container you have will fit under there and it will fit and hold the fluid capacity there.
I used a large filtered funnel and a 20L container so fluid is kept clean should you need to replace it with the same fluid.
The large rectangular funnel meant when the hose was released it would go straight in as it will come out at quite a rate.

I found releasing the clip up on the hose first, then take the hose off worked best. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #829298 4th May 2020 8:41pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3641

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
i used this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00544...&psc=1

50/50 with distilled water DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #829325 5th May 2020 5:42am
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila
Posts: 735

Philippines 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Stu_XS wrote:
custom90steve wrote:
That's the only two I know of, Texaco XLC and Motul Inugel Optimal.
The former wasn't easy to get not so long ago, the latter I have now and i think it's better.
Both meet LR tech specs.


Bit of an old thread I know but perhaps useful to know.

Coolants in the Havoline (Chevron /Texaco /Caltex) range are manufactured by a company called Arteco which is a joint venture between Total & Chevron (Total owns the manufacturing facility) and hence there are Total equivalents to these which may be easier or more convenient to source. In this case Coolelf Auto Supra if you want ready to use or Glacelf Auto Supra if you want concentrated.

http://www.lubs-products-database.total.co...7000/27452

http://www.lubs-products-database.total.co...7000/27446


Quick question guys, these show the proper WSS-M97B44 rating but the local Total stations where I am in South East Asia have the coolant spec WSE-M97B44 (all other approval specs and ratings the same except this one which is WSE and not WSS). Still safe to use?

I looked orange from outside the bottle but upon pouring, it was yellowish. Since the bottles were displayed exposed to the sun, I'm reckoning that the red pigment in the dye faded already hence the yellowish fluid despite the orange appearance when in the bottle?
Post #829333 5th May 2020 7:47am
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spudfan



Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4655

Ireland 
I use this by Comma
https://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehicles/products/view/351 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai
Post #830502 11th May 2020 5:04pm
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