 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma 2.4L coolant bleed/replace or just top up? |
 
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324  
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Gidday,
So I've topped up my coolant twice now, but only with distilled water so the mixture is getting more on the water side of the equation. (there is no leak, I had to remove the reservoir when working on the clutch master cylinder, lost a wee bit in the process...) I figure I can top it up with a bit of the specified juice - but is it as simple as that? Are they all the same, or do I have to get a special variety? (that never seems to be available locally) If I wanted to drain and start over with fresh everything - what is the process? 3rd post here here makes it sound like a proper mechanic level kind of thing: "Observe the engine temperature gauge. If the engine starts to over-heat switch off immediately and allow to cool. Failure to follow this instruction may cause damage to the vehicle."  |
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30th Apr 2016 5:34am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20325 
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Agree with the above, seems much more complicated than it is.
I have done similar too, only Waterpump and had to bleed it. |
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30th Apr 2016 5:10pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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I've formatted the details a bit more clearly:
2.4L TDCi HPCR Puma - Engine Cooling Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding Procedures: WARNING: Since injury such as scalding could be caused by escaping steam or coolant, do not remove the filler cap from the coolant expansion tank while the system is hot. CAUTIONS: The engine cooling system must be maintained with the correct concentration and type of anti-freeze solution to prevent corrosion and frost damage. Failure to follow this instruction may result in damage to the engine. Engine coolant will damage the paint finished surfaces. If spilt, immediately remove the coolant and clean the area with water. 1. Set the heater controls to Hot. 2. Remove the coolant expansion tank cap. WARNING: Since injury such as scalding could be caused by escaping steam or coolant, do not remove the filler cap from the coolant expansion tank while the system is hot. 3. Loosen the cooling system bleed screw. 4. Raise and support the vehicle. WARNING: Do not work on or under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle on safety stands. 5. Disconnect the 2 fuel cooler coolant pipes. Allow the coolant to drain. WARNING: Eye protection must be worn. NOTE: Position a container to collect the coolant. 6. Disconnect the oil thermostat coolant hose. 7. Allow the coolant to drain. 8. Connect the 2 fuel cooler coolant pipes. 9. Connect the oil thermostat coolant hose. 10. Fill the cooling system expansion tank until the coolant level becomes static with in the "COLD FILL RANGE". CAUTIONS: Engine coolant will damage the paint finished surfaces. If spilt, immediately remove the coolant and clean the area with water. Anti-freeze concentration must be maintained at 50%. 11. Tighten the cooling system bleed screw. 12. Install the coolant expansion tank cap. 13. Observe the engine temperature gauge. If the engine starts to over-heat switch off immediately and allow to cool. Failure to follow this instruction may cause damage to the vehicle. CAUTIONS: Make sure the coolant level remains above the "COLD FILL RANGE" lower level mark. - Start and run the engine. - Hold the engine speed at 3,000 RPM for one minute. - Return the engine to idle for five minutes. - Hold the engine speed at 3,000 RPM for one minute. - Run the engine until the thermostat opens. 14. Release the cooling system pressure by slowly turning the coolant expansion tank cap a quarter of a turn. Cover the expansion tank cap with a thick cloth to prevent the possibility of scalding. WARNING: Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. NOTE: When the coolant bleed is complete and prior to installing the expansion tank cap, top-up the expansion tank to 30mm above the maximum level. - Switch the engine off. - Remove the coolant expansion cap, allow the level to settle and top-up so that the level is 30mm above the upper level. - Allow the engine to cool. 15. Clean any spilt coolant from the vehicle. 16. Check and top-up the coolant if required. |
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30th Apr 2016 8:32pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Heh, yeah reading it now it does seem easy... But still I don't know what half those parts referred to are, usually I'd just nut it out using logic - following pipes, looking at the parts etc. - but for completion and everyone else visiting this thread does anyone have photos of all the parts referred to: oil thermostat? cooling system bleed screw? fuel cooler coolant pipes?
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30th Apr 2016 8:39pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20325
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The fuel cooler is on the LH chassis rail, upper two pipes are fuel, lower coolant.
However, I'd leave this alone, I did the connectors are to easy to remove I found. (Must be a technique.) Looking from under the bonnet backwards the bleed screw is to the top right of the engine bay. It's black with a cross head cap on it. (It has a torque figure to tighten to, I didn't have a tool suitable so tightened to my estimation of I think it was 4NM or similar. Not much... The drain hose is to the side of the thermostat and below the Waterpump. So from underneath looking forward it's to the left / OS on the engine block. The clips are strong and can be a pain, there is only one you'd need to remove on it.. Amount is 10L so 11L is recommended so you have some to top up after bleeding. Actual bleeding is 3k revs for 1min idle for 5mins 3k revs for one minute. That's should have no overheating if it's done stone cold or not a boiling day. And as instructions mention keep an eye on the temp guard it should do no further than normal mid way operating temp. Mine stayed well below anyway. Then that's it, just keep and eye on the coolant level after a trip or two and it may go down a touch. Simply follow those instructions and you'll be fine. You'll find the most annoying part is taking off the drain hose clip, make sure you can contain the coolant once it's released too. Wear gloves and eye protection as it is toxic, and to animals. I wouldn't say it was urgent to replace the coolant as you describe but it would be worthwhile doing as soon as you can free time to. |
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30th Apr 2016 9:08pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Thanks again - good stuff.
We live in a mild climate, so it's not top of the list, but I'll get there one day soon. Another motivation is that the machine is new(ish) to me and I'm third owner - I like to know that what is in there is the right stuff. |
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30th Apr 2016 9:37pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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4Nm - arrrrgh
I've just invested in two torque wrenches: > 40-200Nm in 1/2" > 10-50Nm with 1/4" and 1/2" square drive inserts for the 9x12 thingo It's turning out that I always 'need' a tool that is just out of range of the one I have just bought.
Mind you, I think the smallest at the shop was 5-25 - seems like a 5x range is the norm... Will make do, as have done  |
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30th Apr 2016 9:45pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20325
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I made do, a nice large flat screw driver forgive you a good feel to estimate the torque.
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4th May 2016 7:07pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Coming back to this as although it's winter, I got a remap.
Anyone have any specifications on the coolant required? So far I found mention of: - Havoline/Texaco XLC (actual spec) - Shell Coolguard OAT that 'meets Ford spec according to a user) - Motul Inugel Optimal that a user was 'advised' to use Local Ford dealer says they put in their 2.4L Duratorq Transits: - Prixmix MEG95 None available locally it would seem (so far) except the MEG95, but I do know the Puma in a Defender has had some mods compared to the Transit... How to actually compare specifications ? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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1st Aug 2016 12:57am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4206 
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I did mine a couple of weeks ago. Used Motul Inugel Optimal which Opie Oils suggested. I had two difficulties.
1) removing the water hose to the oil filter housing. I couldn't get in to release the hose clamp with pliers or grips. I had to buy a remote hose clamp tool to do it, which delayed the job somewhat. Other than that, draining is easy following the process above. If you download the workshop manual it has some diagrams to help you identify the relevant pipes for draining. 2) I had some trouble getting it to bleed properly afterwards. I knew the full volume of coolant hadn't gone in, but following the process in the manual didn't get the engine hot enough and heater wasn't working. I took it for a decent drive with some coolant in a bottle. After 15 - 20 mins heat came through and I could get another litre or so in the header tank. |
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1st Aug 2016 6:21am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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So a good idea to not just top up, but replace entirely with the correct mix. According the Puma maintenance schedule coolant should be replaced every 200.000km, but I don't really buy into that. Antifreeze has some additives like anti-corrosion, and I am not sure that after 200.000 km those are still as effectively cleaning as on day 1. I have 80-some k km now, and have already replaced my coolant entirely twice. Admit done by my dealer, last time two years ago when I changed the thermostat for the here much discussed PEL500110 version. Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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1st Aug 2016 7:36am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20325
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Same as me but I did manage to get the clip of with long nosed pliers. Granted a DIY way of doing it not using proper tools! Bleeding the same as me, follow manual as states, few short drives keep a close eye on it and top up when required, especially first trip or two and then it will settle. Mines a bit lower than it should be now but going in for a service shortly so I'm not worried about that right now. |
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1st Aug 2016 1:09pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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So coolant just needs to be organic (OAT) and ethylene glycol (EG) based?
Combined these seem to be referred to as XLC or ELC 'extended life coolant' of which there are many brands. Most seem to be red, which is the colour I have in there now. Nothing mentioned so far is available here, might just go with the OAT/EG Castrol coolant because after all 'Land Rover recommends Castrol'   Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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1st Aug 2016 11:14pm |
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| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129 
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Land rover use texaco XLC, which is the equivalent to Caltex ELC.
I just buy them in any Caltex servo. Cheers |
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1st Aug 2016 11:20pm |
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