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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17354

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I've heard of people using the cigarette lighter feed for this (it is an ignition-live feed). Most head units have an AUX OUT supply to energise things like electric aerials (remember them?), subs, etc. When I fitted my HU I used this, it turns on both the Nak aerial and the subwoofer.
Post #824764 12th Apr 2020 10:45am
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JBLancs



Member Since: 17 Oct 2019
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 40

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
I like the AUX out idea a lot however looking at the head unit just now I cant see anything obvious.

I'd like to keep it on the Radio Circuit if possible but I know I'm being fussy.

If i do go down the iso extension loom cut into can I just piggyback off pin 7 and pin 8?



Click image to enlarge





Click image to enlarge
Post #824770 12th Apr 2020 11:08am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20302

United Kingdom 
If you have no 12v RMT in use for Amps etc then you could use that in this instance as the current draw for the booster is super low. This is the Blue white tracer RMT and is only on when the HU is. I wouldn’t use it though if you need it for other items as well like Amp RMT turn on or you add up the load which is typically a max of about 300mA / 0.3A. It would need fusing too about 250mA at the back of the HU.

Alternatively you could use the HU ignition circuit.

Or make up a piggyback section of 2mm2 ground and live with Male female pre insulated spade connectors. With taps taken off of that fused in-line from the lighter socket.

Or yet another option would be an ‘add a tap’ std blade fuse holder to the lighter socket feed in the fuse box.
Fit a slightly lower rated fuse for the lighter socket circuit and a 1A fuse for the Nak aerial. Plug and play ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #824775 12th Apr 2020 11:26am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20302

United Kingdom 
Add a tap:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Add-A-Circuit-F...XQXZZRez~m
They will JUST clear the fuse box cover once fitted and can easily be accessed and removed. Turned on only when the ignition is on fed via the 12v socket feed. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #824776 12th Apr 2020 11:30am
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JBLancs



Member Since: 17 Oct 2019
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 40

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
Thanks for all the suggestions, think i'll make up one of the piggyback loom options, out of interest where would I find the RMT blue with white tracer wire?

Thanks everyone for the replies.
Post #824779 12th Apr 2020 12:00pm
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pj2106



Member Since: 20 Dec 2012
Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire
Posts: 1500

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
They don’t take much draw you could just tap into one of the switches ign live feed 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold
1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold
Post #824780 12th Apr 2020 12:02pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17354

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
JBLancs wrote:
I like the AUX out idea a lot however looking at the head unit just now I cant see anything obvious.

I'd like to keep it on the Radio Circuit if possible but I know I'm being fussy.

If i do go down the iso extension loom cut into can I just piggyback off pin 7 and pin 8?



Click image to enlarge




It's pin 5 on connector A. In your photo, connector A is the bottom one, and pin 5 is the left hand pin of the two in the in the top row of the bottom connector.
Post #824781 12th Apr 2020 12:11pm
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JBLancs



Member Since: 17 Oct 2019
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 40

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
Thats superb, again thanks for all the suggestions and replies.

Cheers
Post #824785 12th Apr 2020 12:37pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20302

United Kingdom 
Blue / white RMT 12v is on the rear of the head unit. On the head unit side typically.

It’ll definitely be on your HU wiring diagram on aftermarket head units.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connectors_for_car_audio

PIN 5 on DIN ISO wiring diagram. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #824790 12th Apr 2020 12:58pm
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Argee



Member Since: 13 Nov 2017
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 71

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Hi All,

I hope you and yours are safe and well.

I've just got the naka aerial and plan to fit this weekend but I have couple of questions for the brain trust.

The booster comes with a red and a black wire, assuming the red is the power and can either be connected to the red or blue/white piggy back plugs I have on the back of my Alpine mechless HU?

So is the black the ground that will need it's own extender making up to go to a suitable ground point somewhere on the chassis or thereabouts?

I fitted a kenwood sub to the back of the cubby last weekend so not a total numpty but I would rather be sure before I start as it saves all the swearing and tool throwing.

Cheers in advance. Thumbs Up
Post #828436 29th Apr 2020 10:22am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20302

United Kingdom 
Correct, there is a stud on the bonnet opening mech handle assemble that would suffice as a ring terminal for a ground. The Aerial has a low load and is in close vicinity.
You can probably get away with the Aerial and amp turn on powered by blue/white RMT. I wouldn’t not add any extra load at all though as it’s limited to about 250mA 300mA current.
You should fuse the blue/white RMT directly at the back of the HU for the aerial at 100mA or 250mA if extending OR situate the booster directly at the back using its pre connected fuse holder.

With this set up, the aerial will only be on when the HU is on only when required.
If you ever needed more current capacity using this set up you’d need an external fused ignition switches live supply and the RMT asa trigger only to a standard Relay to prevent overload of the RMT and use it as a switch only.
Overloading the RMT current capacity can kill you’re HU and I wouldn’t put any load over 250mA / 0.25A on it.

You may want to use quick release connectors too if a kind for ease of removal of HU at a later date. Thumbs Up ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #828454 29th Apr 2020 11:34am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17354

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Yes, long-standing convention with automotive wiring is that anything black is a ground wire (except on military vehicles when every wire is black).
Post #828459 29th Apr 2020 11:46am
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Argee



Member Since: 13 Nov 2017
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 71

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Thanks both, really helpful.

I'll probably use bullet connectors as that's what the piggy back for the blue/white cable is, if memory serves.

This forum is ace. Cool
Post #828467 29th Apr 2020 12:01pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20302

United Kingdom 
Apologies for the typing errors there too. Auto correct seems to often do the opposite to what you type out. Rolling Eyes Laughing ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #828518 29th Apr 2020 4:25pm
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DuncanS



Member Since: 06 Dec 2013
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 299

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
blackwolf wrote:
Yes, long-standing convention with automotive wiring is that anything black is a ground wire (except on military vehicles when every wire is black).


Unless you're dealing with trailers and commercial wiring which uses white as earth!

I tend to use white (preferably) over black (unless on two core) as usually on 7 or 13 core its also thicker and better suited for the common return path. North Cumbria Search and Rescue - Team Leader
Post #828524 29th Apr 2020 4:37pm
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