 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Half Shaft Replacement |
 
|
|
|
| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804   
|
Wow Oldowner. First, thank you for the advice. Second, I think you should post a thread with photos of as many of your previous collection of Defenders as you have. Assuming you have some....
 Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
||
11th Mar 2020 11:21am |
|
| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841 
|
hey guys,
This is a little 'off topic' but not too much.... I'll be trying to get my car back together this weekend. As I am now replacing the hub, the bearings are coming out, and I'll be replacing the bearing spacer with the two lock nut system. I'm much more familiar with that style, and don't have a 250nM torque wrench anyway. However, when putting the new inner seal in place , how should I mount that? I've seen that there are variations on how deep into the hub it goes, depending on the age of the axle. i.e. my Tdi WSM says the seal should be flush with the face of the hub, but as I say I think others are different. The car is fitted with a newer, 2009 axle. I tried searching for this first, but with no quick results. If anyine can remember this being asked before, and where the info was, I'd be happy to be pointed in that direction. Ta Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
||
|
13th Mar 2020 8:21am |
|
| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6092  
|
That usually have "fit to depth 4mm " moulded on the seal
As BW says, the lip inside the hub will stop the seal in the correct place anyway |
||
|
13th Mar 2020 9:59am |
|
| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
|
Thanks to both. I hadn't thought to actually look at the seal itself. I was just aware that the WSM guidance was different. While I've done this many, many times on trailer bearings, those seals don't have the two external lips to them.
Happy to crack on now. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
||
|
13th Mar 2020 10:26am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17362 
|
Using a drive flange as a drift also ensures that the seal is properly perpendicular to the axis of the hub.
It's a useful trick which I've used for decades, I can't remember who first suggested it to me. |
||
|
13th Mar 2020 1:58pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3671 
|
Why etch prime, then prime? |
||
|
14th Mar 2020 7:50pm |
|
| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2212 
|
Big Thanks to Darren who gave me the ‘seller info’ on the galvanised Cap head bolts today I’m getting ready to do the shafts and disks.
Keith.
|
||
|
15th Mar 2020 6:11pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17362
|
[nerd mode]
Strictly those fasteners are zinc plated & passivated (ZP&P) finish, rather than simply galvanised. Galvanisation involves the electrolytic deposition of a zinc coating on the base steel, passivation or chromate conversion then converts the zinc into a complex mixture of zinc chromates, zinc oxides, chromic oxides, and related compounds, in either a trivalent or a hexavalent form. This provides a better level of durability and corrosion resistance than plain zinc. Since it is a conversion process it doesn't increase the deposition and hence dimensions of the finished part, and as a result is commonly used on fasteners where a thin passivated coating provides a level of protection which would other require a thick plain zinc coating. Common specification for such things are BZP (bright zinc plated) which is usually clear passivated but may just be galvanised, ZP&P (zinc plated & passivated), which is generally clear (trivalent) passivated (and is almost certainly what the socket head cap bolts in the photo above are) but may get yellow passivate, or ZP&YP (zinc plate & yellow passivate) which is a hexavalent passivate which has a yellowy golden colour, and is very often found on sheet steel parts. Machine screws tend to be yellow passivated. So now you know! [/Nerd mode] |
||
|
15th Mar 2020 7:42pm |
|
| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841
|
Well, I did this job today. And put in an Ashcroft ATB at the same time. And new wheel bearings and brake discs, so a lot going on.
Interesting is all I can say. Got the diff in no bother. Got the short/OS half shaft in.... and the hub wouldn't turn at all. First thought was that it might be something to do with the limited slip nature of the ATB.... and that it might sort itself when the opposite shaft went in. Got that in, but the OS one still refused to turn. By this stage I was ready to run into the hills screaming.... Then I had a think, and popped it out again, and left it maybe 10mm out. Shaft and diff both turned OK. Hmmm. Tightened it up again, and no turny. At this point I was wondering if maybe the new hub I'd fitted was out of spec... Anyway it also occurred to me to try the original shaft in there. Swapped them over and.... everything works as it should. So that's how I've left things. In between I did some measuring of the two shafts side by side. (One piece on the left)  Click image to enlarge The one piece is 2mm longer than the original. Not much, but maybe enough. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Hard to see on the photos, but the splined section is nearly 3mm longer on the one piece. So whatever combination of factors is behind this, I find that I can't use one of my "one piece" shafts. The new hub did come in a blue box.... but then so did the halfshafts... Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
||
|
15th Mar 2020 7:55pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17362
|
That's disturbing, and is the reason why I won't buy anything from the "blue box" manufacturer.
|
||
|
15th Mar 2020 8:41pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3671
|
If you have snapped a bolt, like me, it’s pretty straight forward to sort it out, you don’t need a garage.
First, drill through the drive member with the missing bolt hole with a 10.5mm drill. This is to essentially mark the centre in the bolt head as it will be unlikely to be flat and easy to centre punch. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Then drill out the bolt at 8.5mm to the length of a bolt. Once you’ve done that, tap it M10 and fit your fresh bolt. Voila! Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
||
|
20th Mar 2020 5:01pm |
|
| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 874
|
Has online who's done this job recently have access to the part numbers they used for the halfshart, bolts, gasket etc....
It's on my to do list and want to do it right the first time. Not that I don't have time at the moment.... |
||
|
12th Apr 2020 11:21am |
|
| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
|
I'm not sure about part numbers but these are links to the parts that I used:
M10x45 12.9 cap head zinc plated bolts: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-10mm-CAP-HE...43ffe1fe27 M10 galv. spring washers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spring-Lock-Was...gkBRiCtrSQ Can't find the exact link to the gaskets but they're only paper and nothing special so these would do the job: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defe...Sw8gVYBHmI Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
||
|
12th Apr 2020 11:59am |
|
| PCM Member Since: 25 Jan 2019 Location: North East Posts: 874
|
Thanks Darren
Items now in the basket I assume I'm ordering the attached. (Not necessarily from this shop though) Click image to enlarge |
||
|
12th Apr 2020 5:42pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
