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Joe the Plumber



Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 907

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
I can recommend the eBay seller Grenadier highlighted a few posts ago (on Sunday). My new (old) half shafts arrived today and they look to be in really good condition.

Fitting will be 'eventually' as I'm very busy at present, but I'll try to report back when I manage it.
Post #762039 5th Mar 2019 3:36pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5804

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Thanks Joe.

Update (sorry I have hijacked the thread) on my noise etc. Basically on driving it today, the jolt and noise are most apparent on moving from static in 1st, or from 1st to second. Note that this can be almost entirely negated by feathering the clutch. Seems to emanate from the rear, or at least that is where the slack seems to be picked up. Repeating yesterday, when driving at 90km if I lifted gently and reapplied gently, no clunck, making me think yesterday was more just about hearing things that weren’t there and some rough driving style.

Also, throughout the exercise there were no defined bangs (as opposed to gentle slack clunk), if I feathered the clutch, and this included accelerating, bends, hairpins, etc. This makes me wonder if either the A-frame ball joint or damper bushes are to blame as surely these noises would be apparent in any movement of the rear quarters? I’ve been testing with the window open and music off!! Also, with regard to the diff, how quickly/suddenly can they fail? I changed the oil only six months ago and the removed oil had no filings in it that might indicate wear?

Any further thoughts? Would feather overcome the flange wear/slack? Could this be a dud clutch? What signs if there were transfer box problems. Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #762042 5th Mar 2019 4:00pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2414

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
I would suggest you drive (not to fast, straight) with central diff locked. If you have a major improvement then I would blame the central diff (but not only). Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later


Last edited by MK on 5th Mar 2019 6:20pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #762044 5th Mar 2019 4:19pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20328

United Kingdom 
Can you pin point a specific scenario on road it does it or is it sporadic? Sometimes, downhill, uphill or flat road with different leadings front to rear can make a difference. Damper bushes normally cause a shunt-shunt-shunt knock and goes if you gently accelerate or brake.
Driveline tends to be a single knock on braking or acceleration, A frame at low speed moving off etc.
Rear halfshaft spline wear I found causes the hand brake to allow excessive body movement once handbrake engaged especially on an incline of any orientation.
UJ wear is best detected by prop removal in my opinion, I checked mine many times in situ and showed no sign but it did straight away when removed.
Output adaptor shaft wear would likely be in all scenarios if hade thought even in in-gear over run.

Although I’m no expert abd don’t profess to be. Many others hate more knowledgable than me here by far but I’ve found these things many a time to be bushes rather than other things. But there are exceptions of course. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #762049 5th Mar 2019 4:34pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Grenadier wrote:
Also, throughout the exercise there were no defined bangs (as opposed to gentle slack clunk), if I feathered the clutch, and this included accelerating, bends, hairpins, etc. This makes me wonder if either the A-frame ball joint or damper bushes are to blame as surely these noises would be apparent in any movement of the rear quarters? I’ve been testing with the window open and music off!! Also, with regard to the diff, how quickly/suddenly can they fail? I changed the oil only six months ago and the removed oil had no filings in it that might indicate wear?

I think you're over-thinking it. It's far more likely to be a shock bush or ball joint. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #762070 5th Mar 2019 6:57pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8020

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
rear half shaft Disco 1/2 and Defender 90 were the same. 110 had salisbury so different rear shafts

with Puma 110 onwards and P38 rear diff i think you will find that Disc 1,2 90 and 110 rear shafts are now the same. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #762314 7th Mar 2019 12:26pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2414

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
It would be interesting to know the rating of those one piece shafts. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #762315 7th Mar 2019 12:28pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5804

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
LandRoverAnorak wrote:

I think you're over-thinking it. It's far more likely to be a shock bush or ball joint.


I could be. Finally looked at the bush, clearly gone. Whistle


Click image to enlarge
 Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #762370 7th Mar 2019 5:16pm
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Bluericky



Member Since: 26 Jun 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 647

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green
That could be the culprit. I imagine if you have one like that then it would be sensible to overhaul all the shock bushes ! I would https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/
Post #762373 7th Mar 2019 6:02pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20328

United Kingdom 
Does anyone have any tips for changing those top bushes at home properly or is a press a necessity?

I ought to check mine soon too thinking about it. Thumbs Up ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #762383 7th Mar 2019 6:40pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17362

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
No press needed, some washing up liquid as lube helps. It's an easy job.
Post #762385 7th Mar 2019 6:47pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20328

United Kingdom 
So a vice then and sockets similar to the process of swapping the prop UJ's I assume.

I tried Poly once, never ever again! ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #762396 7th Mar 2019 7:15pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17362

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I vaguely remember using a G-cramp to squeeze the new ones in, but I've renewed mine several times and never had any difficulty. It's easier than doing a propshaft uj.
Post #762400 7th Mar 2019 7:33pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20328

United Kingdom 
Yes, I've heard of that before. Thumbs Up ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #762405 7th Mar 2019 7:39pm
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Bluericky



Member Since: 26 Jun 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 647

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green
As Blackwolf says. They’re very easy to change , no sockets needed !
Frankly Grenadiers will drop out ! https://www.instagram.com/hustynminepark/
Post #762406 7th Mar 2019 7:39pm
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