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Nitroneil



Member Since: 05 Mar 2019
Location: Stirling
Posts: 132

Scotland 
Just fitted new shafts and drive flanges tonight, along with new pads all round. Took longer to get the front wheels off than it did to replace the rear shafts! Ended up loosening up the front wheel nuts and driving in and out driveway until they loosened. Like a different car now, old flanges were shot. (Just bought the car, have a long list Smile
Post #765584 26th Mar 2019 11:29pm
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Joe the Plumber



Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 907

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
I finally got round to fitting the Disco 300Tdi rear half shafts I bought (see page 2 of this thread) to my 2014 110 2.2 van today and can confirm they're a straight swap for the standard two piece ones and a doddle to do.

I used new gaskets but re-used the original bolts, torqued to 65Nm. I'd had an oil leak from the driver's side fixed under warranty, and the dealer clearly hadn't used any thread locking compound on the bolts. As that was three years back and it's been fine, I didn't bother with any either. I did however use spring washers on the bolts, but that's just me being paranoid.

For those of you who venture off tarmac, the original shafts are a bit thicker than the one piece ones, but that's not something I'm worried about.

The offside shaft had more play than the nearside, but both had some, so I'm pleased to have got rid of that.



Click image to enlarge




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Post #769121 18th Apr 2019 2:59pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

 
LR90XS2011 wrote:
there is a risk of snapping the bolts on removal, they are loctited in so go steady removing them, start with a breaker bar rather than an impact gun.


These are wise, wise words.... and I wish I'd read through this whole thread again before tackling the job. Crying or Very sad Crying or Very sad

4 came out fine; one snapped. You can be sure that I used a breaker bar on the other side.

I tried drilling the broken bolt, and putting a 'remover' into it. No joy. In normal circumstances I think I would have managed, but I think there's still so much threadlock in there that it's just not shifting.

I'm only really posting this to highlight and emphasis the point about the breaker bar rather than the impact gun.

Now I'm left with the hassle of having to get a new hub. The only saving grace is that I was going to be changing the rear discs anyway, so just a case of taking that forward a little. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #818947 9th Mar 2020 8:03pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3641

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
Bad Luck I feel for you DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #818955 9th Mar 2020 9:02pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3675

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
donmacn wrote:
LR90XS2011 wrote:
there is a risk of snapping the bolts on removal, they are loctited in so go steady removing them, start with a breaker bar rather than an impact gun.


These are wise, wise words.... and I wish I'd read through this whole thread again before tackling the job. Crying or Very sad Crying or Very sad

4 came out fine; one snapped. You can be sure that I used a breaker bar on the other side.

I tried drilling the broken bolt, and putting a 'remover' into it. No joy. In normal circumstances I think I would have managed, but I think there's still so much threadlock in there that it's just not shifting.

I'm only really posting this to highlight and emphasis the point about the breaker bar rather than the impact gun.

Now I'm left with the hassle of having to get a new hub. The only saving grace is that I was going to be changing the rear discs anyway, so just a case of taking that forward a little.


Have one snapped off in mine. Will sort it this weekend but it hasn’t been an issue for about 18months!
Post #818957 9th Mar 2020 9:19pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20367

United Kingdom 
Those bolts snapping during removal is the most concerning part doing the job.
When I did mine I done them all by hand so you could feel everything, just the point of cracking them loose is the part to go most easy with.
Just taking your time is the way to go by hand. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #818960 9th Mar 2020 9:33pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

 
Co1 wrote:

Have one snapped off in mine. Will sort it this weekend but it hasn’t been an issue for about 18months!


!! I did actually wonder how I might get on with just 4. If I was really pushed to use the car, I would have wondered more seriously. As it is I have most of the parts handy, I'll be away with work for a couple of days anyway, and the rest of the stuff will be here before the weekend. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #818965 9th Mar 2020 9:56pm
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5816

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
I’m about to do mine. Do most people replace the bolts or use the old ones if still serviceable? Keen to get this right. Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #818979 10th Mar 2020 8:18am
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

 
I don't know about most, but I've decided to follow the example of ordering cap bolts and spring washers.

If nothing else, it saves me having to clean the old threadlock from the original ones.

Grand total of £10-odd from that link posted by LandRoverAnorak. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #818980 10th Mar 2020 8:27am
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5816

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
^^^ Thanks Donmacn. Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #818981 10th Mar 2020 8:32am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Some people do re-use the bolts but it's not really recommended. For the relatively small cost involved, it seems like an unnecessary risk to me. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #818982 10th Mar 2020 8:33am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Use socket head caps with spring washers and no thread locker. You'll never have problems again.

There's no real risk in normal use running with 4 not 5 bolts.

If you use gasket goo instead of or as well as the paper gasket you must be extremely careful not to let any get in the holes. More bolts shear in my experience because of this than because of thread locker.

Sheared bolts can be drilled out carefully but it's best to use a left hand helix drill bit. You'll usually find that once enough heat has been generated the stub unscrews.
Post #818996 10th Mar 2020 9:36am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20367

United Kingdom 
^^^^ +1.
When I did mine I used proper paper gaskets with a light smearing of grease over the gaskets taking care not to plug up the thread holes in any way. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #819030 10th Mar 2020 2:05pm
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htb2



Member Since: 02 Nov 2018
Location: Carmarthenshire
Posts: 529

Wales 
Must have been lucky.
Never changed the bolts over the last 35 yrs nor broke a bolt.
Post #819048 10th Mar 2020 5:37pm
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 623

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
If you do your own maintenance then you probably won’t break any halfshaft bolts. They normally snap because in the past they have been over tightened and stretched by garages / dealers using impact wrenches when changing brake discs.

I have owned 30-40 defenders and disco 1s over the years and most of them have had stretched halfshaft bolts when removed - I always change them for new.
Post #819065 10th Mar 2020 8:13pm
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