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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Removing steering wheel
Tried removing the steering wheel, partly undone the nut and no amount of banging, pulling wiggling, swearing makes it move. Considering a 3 legged puller, TNT or the local garage!

Tips, tricks etc? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #787568 19th Aug 2019 7:23am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17364

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If you have access to an assistant, try getting them to give the nut a sharp tap with a hammer (note a tap, don't beat the daylights out of it!) whilst you pull hard on the wheel, sometime that shock of the impact is all it needs.

Some types of LR wheel are drilled and tapped for a puller, most however are not, and unless you have access to a proper old-style steering wheel puller can be a major PITA.

When you do get it off, before refitting it (or whatever you're fitting in its place) put a smear of copperslip on the splines and taper and do not over-tighten the nut, it really doesn't need to be done up ridiculously tight like most people seem to do, since all it does is hold the wheel onto the taper.
Post #787570 19th Aug 2019 7:29am
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discomog



Member Since: 09 May 2015
Location: Notts/Lincs Border
Posts: 2526

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Don't use a 3 leg puller. You need a steering wheel puller that utilises the threaded holes in the steering wheel. No doubt someone will be along shortly and be able to give you the manufacturers name, or you could make one up yourself. Alternative is to Google "steering wheel puller".

Blackwolf beat me to it Thumbs Up Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S
Morgan Plus 8
Post #787571 19th Aug 2019 7:31am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Thanks both.

There are no threaded holes in the boss for the insertion of bolts to remove it. Sad

Back to sharp taps and wiggling. The wheel is getting removed as there are two cracks through the holes where the screws go through into the boss. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #787573 19th Aug 2019 7:55am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20336

United Kingdom 
This is my concern also as I may need to get mine off sometime. Have you soaked it in penetrating fluid like WD40 the day before?

On a Puma the steering wheel nut is 27NM if memory serves me rightly.
So as Blackwolf mentions that is not overly tight.
But as it is a safety critical item myself personally I would always use WSM torque spec on this. (Some may say that’s fussy, but we all do things differently.)

It is very annoying when what appears to be a simple job often ends up being one of the hardest and very time consuming to boot.
This is often the case, and what appears to be large difficult jobs can be completed, finished and in good time. Rolling Eyes $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #787578 19th Aug 2019 8:49am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17364

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
excossack wrote:
Thanks both.

There are no threaded holes in the boss for the insertion of bolts to remove it. Sad

Back to sharp taps and wiggling. The wheel is getting removed as there are two cracks through the holes where the screws go through into the boss.


The absence of threaded holes on most LR wheels is the reason why you need an old-fashioned steering wheel puller (which unfortunately are both rare and expensive nowadays). These have a hefty padded bifurcated steel ring which goes behind the wheel, and the puller then pulls on the ring. I have a long-discontinued SP version, but similar things are still available - if you have £150 or so to spare:

https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/gedore-802875...ler-1-68-1
Post #787598 19th Aug 2019 10:38am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Thanks BW. I think I might pop over to the local garage and see if they can assist.

Word of the day: bifurcated 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #787599 19th Aug 2019 10:42am
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 578

England 
Pour a little (loads) boiling water into the boss whilst wriggling banging and pulling.
Obviously don’t sit in the drivers seat whilst doing this. It’s worked for me in the past.
Post #787658 19th Aug 2019 3:02pm
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G4UJS



Member Since: 20 Jan 2019
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 226

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
I had exactly the same problem, took it to a local Land Rover specialist and he had it off in 2 seconds without using any tools.... he just shook it far more than I would of dared!!!!!

Good luck

Rob
Post #787659 19th Aug 2019 3:07pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17364

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Siwynne wrote:
Pour a little (loads) boiling water into the boss whilst wriggling banging and pulling.
Obviously don’t sit in the drivers seat whilst doing this. It’s worked for me in the past.


And there I was thinking that this technique relied upon the sudden shock loading that you put on the wheel when the boiling water hits your nuts!
Post #787667 19th Aug 2019 3:22pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1624

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
I agree with Rob put a bit of welly into it and give it a good tug and wiggle (leave the nut on a few threads so it doesn't smack you in the face) don't be scared you'll not break it.
Post #787731 19th Aug 2019 6:12pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20336

United Kingdom 
blackwolf wrote:
Siwynne wrote:
Pour a little (loads) boiling water into the boss whilst wriggling banging and pulling.
Obviously don’t sit in the drivers seat whilst doing this. It’s worked for me in the past.


And there I was thinking that this technique relied upon the sudden shock loading that you put on the wheel when the boiling water hits your nuts!

This made me laugh when it shouldn't really. Laughing What's worse is when corrosion sets in on your nut(s) if you've applied boiling water too. Whistle Rolling with laughter
Then you'll certainly need a puller.... Shocked Twisted Evil Rolling with laughter

On a more sensible note. Laughing
It definitely seems to be a case of giving it a bit of welly as Nick mentioned with the nut still slightly threaded on. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #787796 19th Aug 2019 9:08pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1624

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
What are you trying to say Steve? when you have problems in life just give it a good tug and wiggle?





Whistle Rolling with laughter
Post #787799 19th Aug 2019 9:13pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Rubber hammer time. (and avoid hot water on my nuts) 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #787844 20th Aug 2019 7:52am
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Siwynne



Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: West lancs
Posts: 578

England 
Is this an aftermarket or og wheel and boss.
Post #787861 20th Aug 2019 11:21am
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