 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Removing rear trailing arms |
 
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| Whirly90 Member Since: 01 Sep 2016 Location: Ampshire Posts: 405   
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I think i would want some axle stands/ wooden blocks under the chassis/ rear cross member too. When the the arm is off one side of the axle it'll make the vehicle less stable. It would still be attached to the other arm and the A frame so it's unlikely to drop on you but i wouldn't crawl underneath with no chassis support.
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21st Dec 2018 12:47pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5850  
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Good thought on the axle stands. (just in case moment) 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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21st Dec 2018 1:37pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8050  
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Chock 3 wheels. Work on rear unchocked wheel. Undo three three chassis bolts holding dognut Bush. Then undo axle bolt, 22mm, drift out axle bolt, lever out arm downwards, rotate wheel as required to move axle slightly, pull out chassis end. Then remove Bush from chassis end of arm. Only downside to this is undoing large nut without impact tools. Change bushes and refit. Axle stands and removing wheels not required. It can't fall, suspension holds vehicle up. A frame will keep rear axle sufficiently in place.
May need ratchet strap to pull back together on fitting. Fitting dognut Bush first to arm means your not trying to locate and put nut on at same time. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop Last edited by jst on 21st Dec 2018 7:43pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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21st Dec 2018 2:56pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5850
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Your plan was similar to mine and might even break out the Makita impact gun 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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21st Dec 2018 3:07pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8050
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Similar yes. The same no. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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21st Dec 2018 7:45pm |
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| mermade Member Since: 08 Dec 2018 Location: cheshire Posts: 3
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has anyone tried the poly route?
https://powerflexstore.co.uk/land-rover/defender-2002-2016/ |
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28th Dec 2018 10:41am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5850
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I did ponder polybush but went to Gen LR ones, this was based on the fact the bushes have lasted nearly 20years(assuming they have not bee changed) 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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28th Dec 2018 1:13pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5850
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One side done. Just missing the torque figures for the three nuts/bolts that hold the chassis end bush in place. The other bolts are 176nm according to the Haynes manual 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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28th Dec 2018 1:15pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2237 
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Workshop manual shows the wrong torque for the bushes to chassis. I cant remember if they are M8 or M10 but tighten them up to 23Nm or 45Nm respectively.
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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28th Dec 2018 1:26pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5850
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Cheers Steve. The old bolts where 17mm heads, the new ones are 17mm nut and 13mm bolt with built in washer/flange 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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28th Dec 2018 1:32pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2237
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Ah yes, M10 it is then
 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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28th Dec 2018 2:02pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5850
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Thanks Steve. Both arms done. And one arm done twice after i noticed i had put a washer axle side rather then 30mm nut side at the chassis end.
As i had to disturb the nylocks am i best to replace? Either way all re-torqued to correct settings 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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28th Dec 2018 4:15pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5850
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Since doing the rear arms the car has developed an annoying squeak which sounds like its in the steering column/dash area. On rocking the car I can hear a squeak from the rear end...Sounds like a job for the weekend. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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3rd Jan 2019 6:16pm |
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