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Home > Puma (Tdci) > The strip down begins, TDCI head-gasket??
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defender9



Member Since: 12 Mar 2016
Location: Fylde Coast
Posts: 1629

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Excellent detailed write up Ian, very informative, hope it’s sorted after all the hard work you put in. Thumbs Up
Post #716740 8th Jul 2018 4:11pm
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Sonarmender



Member Since: 04 Apr 2013
Location: Guz
Posts: 338

England 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
Lash up! Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter

Not worked on many modern engine installs then! Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Relatively easy compared to say a Subaru... regardless of model. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up You only have one life, live it....forget the cost.
90XS Hardtop
Post #716750 8th Jul 2018 5:54pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Yes, I’ve worked on a few others...

I was one of a small team of people that helped the Swedish firm Scania, develop their OG9 engined gas bus.

These engines were straight out of the box, very little run/test times had been done at the factory,
Reading busses were being used as a test mule.
We knew very little about the gas engines only that they used an older proven 5cyl 9ltr Diesel block,
The rest was experimental!



Click image to enlarge




We were in direct communication with a team in Sweden, and ADL, who could “talk to the busses”
Through the ECUs and BCUs remotely, we were on the workshop floor dealing with faults as they would arise,
reporting back to them, and they would adjust the ECUs and BCUs as required, changing fuel/ air mix, gas pressures etc,
It was mind boggling as to what you could do regarding making them run!

I worked out of a Scania depot, but was based in Reading busses for months while the engines were being tested,

One major problem being the the shear heat they would generate in city centre conditions,
It was a weekly occurrence that at least 4-5 exhaust valves would burn out, it was recorded that head temps were reaching the same temp as an acetylene flame.

This meant all 5 separate heads came off, and a top end rebuild was carried out to the tune of £10,000 per engine!
New hardened valves were made in Sweden and sent over, valve seats were super hardened to take the higher temps,
The heads alone were £1500 each to replace, I had a van full of the things at one point,
With 20 busses in the fleet, we could of easily done the last few blindfolded!

It’s a pitty I don’t have my old phone, as I had lots of photos of a full engine strip down/top end strip downs,
Which was something to behold.
It would make the Puma engine look like a small truck compressor!

In 2008/9 The first fleet of 15 methane busses we had to convert them back to Diesel, as they were so temperamental,
Running at only 4mpg the plug was pulled, and Scania had to go back to the drawing board.
That was a major campaign, the work involved was incredible!

Have a look here, I’m proud to say I had quite a bit to do with this engine Very Happy
It’s going back a few years now....

https://cbwmagazine.com/first-scania-adl-g...o-reading/

I now work on large and small plant in the Arb industry,
I agree the internal workings of a Puma engine isn’t anything special,
But A majority of the good folk on here will probably never see the internal workings of their motor?
Which is why I started this thread.... Wink

Never liked the Subaru engine, always sounds like it’s got a misfire! Whistle 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.


Last edited by ian series 1 on 11th Jul 2018 7:36pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #716755 8th Jul 2018 6:48pm
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Ellisboy



Member Since: 13 Oct 2013
Location: Deep South
Posts: 539

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Top job mate Thumbs Up Bow down

Stephen.
Post #716787 8th Jul 2018 8:49pm
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Crofter



Member Since: 19 Feb 2015
Location: Peterhead
Posts: 169

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Baltic Blue
Ian I would never have the knowledge, skills or confidence to do that job, But I have enjoyed this thread. Thanks.
Post #716814 9th Jul 2018 12:17am
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Big Harold



Member Since: 09 Jul 2018
Location: nsw
Posts: 71

Australia 2015 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Alpine White
Top Job Thumbs Up
Don't feel like coming for a holiday to Australia do you?
I just started to remove the engine on my 2012 110 Defender 2.2L Puma.
I suspect it has cracked #2 piston.
There is enough hoses on the RHS to start a rubber factory.
Hopefully will have the engine on the deck tomorrow.
Mark
Post #716836 9th Jul 2018 7:33am
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3643

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
Ian

thanks for the write up, hope I never have to do mine, also hope it all carries on working AOK DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #716865 9th Jul 2018 10:10am
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
So, the verdict....

I fitted a genuine Ford chain cover, and another seal tonight, everything fits perfectly,
And more importantly no oil leaks!

I also warned the people selling these covers as O.E.M parts to be careful, as they are not that great at doing a critical job, such as positioning the front crank seal.

All topped up with Coolant again, and time for a road test.
I’m pleased to say after a 30 mile trip, it used no water, temp on the ultra gauge flucuated between 82-93,
Which is just as before.

So whatever I did done the job!

Frustratingly, I couldn’t find anything wrong with any of it??
I had 2 more mechanic friends look at the head gasket, like myself, neither could see any fault with it?

So, i replaced the water pump, which was in GWO, and thermostat, again tested with no issues, tested the egr cooler, had the head tested/skimmed, flushed the whole cooling system through, new cam chain kit, timing chain cover, various gaskets, and oil seals
I couldn’t do much else?

All in all a mystery, but all working lovely again Thumbs Up 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #717096 10th Jul 2018 8:54pm
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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
Great news Ian and thanks again for posting it all here Thumbs Up

It's very frustrating no matter the task when you can't actually find the original problem, but my bet is it was so small you'd need a microscope to spot it.

At least you're all sorted and we're all more educated for your troubles Bow down Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #717138 11th Jul 2018 7:43am
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Cheers Thumbs Up 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #717141 11th Jul 2018 8:05am
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Great read, thanks for posting Thumbs Up wish I had your skills. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #717161 11th Jul 2018 1:25pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2420

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Ian

I assume that using a new original timing cover you did not need to use the centering tool to fit the front crankshaft seal?

As well, how many miles and how were all the timing components such as sliders, tensioners, any stretch on the chain, etc?

thank you

MK Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #717168 11th Jul 2018 2:24pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Hi MK

There is a trick to seating the seal,
Take the cover and apply the sealant,loosely fit the front cover with 2 bolts at the top,
Don’t tighten them, just let the cover “hang”
Then put the 2 10mm nuts on the bottom of the cover, again just pinch them up so the cover can still move.

Install the seal, then gently tighten the two top and bottom fixings,
Then put all the rest in and tighten up, the seal will find its centre, as they are quite hard seals,

Always done it this way, and never had any issues with leaking seals (except mine! But that was the crappy cover)
When the TDCI came out, you couldn’t get your hands on the special tools, not cheaply anyway, so there was always a workaround! Wink


The timing chain that I took out was an aftermarket one, I’ve no idea how long it’s been fitted for? but only the chain, tensioner guide, and tensioner had been fitted,
The cam sprockets, and pump sprocket were genuine Ford,
As were the other guides.

I brought it with 86,000 miles on the clock, so who or why it was fitted I don’t know?
It’s now on 140,000, apart from very slightly worn cam sprockets there wasn’t much to worry about.

The kits that I fit (at work, and here) include every guide and bolts, tensioner, 2x cam sprockets, 1x pump sprocket, crank/oil pump sprocket, and the chain.

They cost around £200 If your going to do it, replace everything for piece of mind.
Timing pin kits are readily avalible for very little money.
Thumbs Up 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #717180 11th Jul 2018 4:46pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20440

United Kingdom 
Thumbs Up $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #717192 11th Jul 2018 6:01pm
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Roy5695



Member Since: 15 Feb 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 1123

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Indus Silver
Good thread, fantastic workman ship and even better result in the end. Thumbs Up 2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html

Instagram - @r22oyp

Roy
Post #717214 11th Jul 2018 7:08pm
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