Home > Technical > 2013 Defender 90 Central Locking / Actuator Issues |
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pj2106 Member Since: 20 Dec 2012 Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire Posts: 1500 |
Just disconnect the actuators and remove the rods to the lock 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold 1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold |
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3rd Jun 2018 11:39am |
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Tdi4 Member Since: 24 Oct 2014 Location: Houten Posts: 513 |
That’s sound like silly money.
Asuming you are the diy type. First check the wires in the flexible tube between door and pillar. LR used very stiff wires and perhaps you have a problem There. Click image to enlarge Then to do Some more investigating you can switch parts from the left side to the right side. Starting with the actuator. To see which is the culprit. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover |
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3rd Jun 2018 11:52am |
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mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 |
As above, sounds like one of the actuators has gone dry so is making the noise. Listen to which door the noise comes from and replace that actuator then check the wires in rubber boot of which door doesn’t open as some of the wires will probably be broken. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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3rd Jun 2018 5:08pm |
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Doc P Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 565 |
Sounds like they're taking the proverbial.
Mine did something similar. Initially, one slow actuator (one door always the last to unlock) - i.e. it was still working, but making a whirring noise for ages on a rear door. Then suddenly no door opening at all and a blown fuse (can't remember which one - sorry - but it was a 15A) which disabled all the locks and I needed to open the drivers door with the key to get in. The issue was a broken wire in the gaiter between the pillar and the door as Tdi4 says above (causing a short). Hope it's this as it's an easy fix. Wires - just use anything more flexible and robust than the cr@p JLR use. The actuators are relatively cheap too if it's that that's broken. Certainly wouldn't be paying £1500!! Good luck. |
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3rd Jun 2018 5:12pm |
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NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1624 |
Try Mark at http://salukimotorsport.com if you want a second opinion. Nice guys and expats.
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3rd Jun 2018 10:27pm |
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DXB90 Member Since: 17 Feb 2013 Location: Dubai, United Arab Emirates Posts: 22 |
Thanks all, have made a call to Land Rover UK and expecting a call from Global.
Have spoken to the dealer here and they are claiming that all wires in the rubber boot have been checked and no breakages. Will update once I hear all. Have used Mark before so will reach out too. Tim |
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4th Jun 2018 11:22am |
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Hal Member Since: 04 Jun 2014 Location: Bedford Posts: 91 |
I guess the other doors work ok?
If it's not the wires and the other doors work then the next check is the actuator motor. Google for Actuator - Drivers Door - FUD500020 - Genuine. Less than £40.00 30 minute job to change it if you're being careful with the door card clips. So even at dealer costs if you don't want to do it yourself you're looking at perhaps less than £150, a tenth of their first proposal to you. |
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4th Jun 2018 2:03pm |
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DXB90 Member Since: 17 Feb 2013 Location: Dubai, United Arab Emirates Posts: 22 |
Yes the other doors were working all ok.
Honestly no idea now. Land Rover Global (Dubai) came back and have basically agreed with the dealer remove and replace all. Now in the process to get something more sensible out of them. |
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6th Jun 2018 8:58am |
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Doc P Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Midlands Posts: 565 |
Mine had broken just at the door end of the gaiter - so the broken end was sitting behind the door card. Wouldn’t be obvious unless you really looked. I’d double check. |
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6th Jun 2018 4:06pm |
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