DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - 2013 Defender 90 Central Locking / Actuator Issues

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Technical > 2013 Defender 90 Central Locking / Actuator Issues

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

DXB90

Member Since: 17 Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Posts: 22

2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 X-Tech LE Orkney Grey

2013 Defender 90 Central Locking / Actuator Issues

Afternoon All,

After a read through of all posts still cannot find an answer to the problem I am having.

One morning the central locking decided to make a very strange noise initially on the drivers door like a whirring and it would not unlock, like the the door lock on the inside was stuck. I managed to get in through the passenger side and pull up the door lock from the inside, all was then well for a few days.

The whirring then started again usually there would be a small delay and then the noise would happen both on locking and unlocking. It was close to a service (still going to the main dealer here in Dubai even though outside of warranty) so I thought I would leave it for a couple of weeks and they would look at it then. The morning of going to the dealership, disaster, would not unlock, whirring alarm going off and very difficult to even get into the car, though it started fine once this had happened. From a quick search I presumed it would be one of the actuators that needed replacing so as it was going for a service thought sure no major issues.

How wrong could I be... 4 weeks later and numerous follow ups from the main dealer through advise from TSB (presumably locally and not the UK) I have been presented with a solution which is and wait for it...

Replace the whole system to a newer model.

Ie...
Switch alarm
Actuator oddly only 2 pieces
Module - Door lock and alarm
Kit - Wiring
Coil - Starter motor field
Remote control system - transmitter
Receiver - Radio remote control

Total price converted in Sterling - 1509.50 including labour with a 30% discount on the RRP of the parts.

There other suggestion is too disable the central locking and use the key manually and all will be fine, obviously this is not ideal at all.

Would appreciate any advice from anyone familiar as this seems like using a hammer to fix a leak!!!

Cheers

Tim

3rd Jun 2018 11:02am

pj2106

Member Since: 20 Dec 2012
Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire
Posts: 1500

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

Just disconnect the actuators and remove the rods to the lock 2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold
1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold

3rd Jun 2018 11:39am

Tdi4

Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey

That’s sound like silly money.

Asuming you are the diy type.

First check the wires in the flexible tube between door and pillar. LR used very stiff wires and perhaps you have a problem
There.

Click image to enlarge

Then to do Some more investigating you can switch parts from the left side to the right side. Starting with the actuator. To see which is the culprit. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover

3rd Jun 2018 11:52am

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

As above, sounds like one of the actuators has gone dry so is making the noise. Listen to which door the noise comes from and replace that actuator then check the wires in rubber boot of which door doesn’t open as some of the wires will probably be broken. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html

3rd Jun 2018 5:08pm

Doc P

Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Midlands
Posts: 565

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Firenze Red

Sounds like they're taking the proverbial.

Mine did something similar. Initially, one slow actuator (one door always the last to unlock) - i.e. it was still working, but making a whirring noise for ages on a rear door. Then suddenly no door opening at all and a blown fuse (can't remember which one - sorry - but it was a 15A) which disabled all the locks and I needed to open the drivers door with the key to get in.

The issue was a broken wire in the gaiter between the pillar and the door as Tdi4 says above (causing a short).

Hope it's this as it's an easy fix. Wires - just use anything more flexible and robust than the cr@p JLR use. The actuators are relatively cheap too if it's that that's broken.

Certainly wouldn't be paying £1500!!

Good luck.

3rd Jun 2018 5:12pm

NickMc

Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1628

Try Mark at http://salukimotorsport.com if you want a second opinion. Nice guys and expats.

3rd Jun 2018 10:27pm

DXB90

Member Since: 17 Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Posts: 22

Thanks all, have made a call to Land Rover UK and expecting a call from Global.

Have spoken to the dealer here and they are claiming that all wires in the rubber boot have been checked and no breakages.

Will update once I hear all. Have used Mark before so will reach out too.

Tim

4th Jun 2018 11:22am

Hal

Member Since: 04 Jun 2014
Location: Bedford
Posts: 91

I guess the other doors work ok?

If it's not the wires and the other doors work then the next check is the actuator motor.

Google for Actuator - Drivers Door - FUD500020 - Genuine. Less than £40.00 30 minute job to change it if you're being careful with the door card clips.

So even at dealer costs if you don't want to do it yourself you're looking at perhaps less than £150, a tenth of their first proposal to you.

4th Jun 2018 2:03pm

DXB90

Member Since: 17 Feb 2013
Location: Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Posts: 22

Yes the other doors were working all ok.

Honestly no idea now. Land Rover Global (Dubai) came back and have basically agreed with the dealer remove and replace all.

Now in the process to get something more sensible out of them.

6th Jun 2018 8:58am

Doc P

Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Midlands
Posts: 565

DXB90 wrote:
Thanks all, have made a call to Land Rover UK and expecting a call from Global.

Have spoken to the dealer here and they are claiming that all wires in the rubber boot have been checked and no breakages.

Will update once I hear all. Have used Mark before so will reach out too.

Tim

Mine had broken just at the door end of the gaiter - so the broken end was sitting behind the door card. Wouldn’t be obvious unless you really looked.
I’d double check.

6th Jun 2018 4:06pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum