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| buckers19 Member Since: 02 Jan 2018 Location: London Posts: 93  
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Ps, it sounds fine as I mounted my cubby on two bits of wood to raise it up a little so the sub wasn’t firing directly into the base of the cubby.
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3rd May 2018 5:52pm |
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| ngins Member Since: 15 Jan 2017 Location: Down South Posts: 80  
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Thanks for the replies on all fronts and the photos - very useful!!
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3rd May 2018 7:05pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20300
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Personally I run my battery box power feed though the existing cable rubber glands in the battery box.
Think the vertical panel nearest the gearbox. Unless your running bigger than 4ga (AWG) there should be enough room as standard. Use a convoluted non split tubing, with an M20 ip68 cable gland drilled though the under cubby access panel. If you leave enough slack in the power feed run the panel can still be used for access if needed. This way, this panel is replaceable if you wanted to easily rather than drilling the body which is a one way street mod, once it's done it's done. There are often existing holes and blanks free in the battery box you can use without drilling anywhere there. From an acoustic point of view, under the cubby is not ideal at all and ventilation can be a concern. The rear of cubby is popular, or if you have a bulkhead as I do myself as well. I would mount in that area, directly to the bulkhead as it is very solid it'll have the best effect. Ultimately we all do everything differently though.  ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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3rd May 2018 8:42pm |
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| ngins Member Since: 15 Jan 2017 Location: Down South Posts: 80
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Thanks so much - thats all really great info and I didn't know the access panel was replaceable so thats great info.
I have seen the various cubby boxes and I thought it might not be ideal - especially with all the junk I have rattling around in the cubby to add to the acoustics too!  |
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4th May 2018 8:00am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20300
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Hoping to get back to my project shortly once I've finished fiddling with Prop UJ's.
It's just the weather and painting to be done as well. 
Anyone else up to anything audio related at all? ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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28th May 2018 4:57pm |
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| ngins Member Since: 15 Jan 2017 Location: Down South Posts: 80
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....still yet to start but gearing up for it....would be interested to see what you get up to and I'll post when I finally get going.
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28th May 2018 5:06pm |
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| CDN38 Member Since: 14 Nov 2014 Location: Courtenay, BC Posts: 729  
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Audio related... Always looking for feedback on this... 
http://www.defender2.net/forum/post713715.html#713715 it's a Landrover thing... my renovation thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html |
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21st Jun 2018 4:46pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20300
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Does anyone know where you can get 6.5" door speaker spacer rings?
The ones that follow the doors contour and into the little rececessed ridge like this:  Click image to enlarge La Salle do actual door cards, with built in accommodation for upto 6.5" but at £228 or so the pair I'm reluctant to go down that route. There is very very little visual difference between rings and the La Salle in my opinion so doesn't justify the price and painting to match is an option. Metra in the USA have some decent ones in 1/2" deep and 1" deep, but it doesn't appear to follow the door card contour and would face slightly to the floor. *EDITED* It would also be useful to know how much depth there is to play with as standard due to the door window mechanism but I doubt anyone's knows or can remember. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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24th Jun 2018 3:56pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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I was lucky enough to get a pair off ken on here, I don’t think they are available anymore. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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24th Jun 2018 7:45pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3745
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^ Looks like the job for someone with a 3D printer and some skill
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24th Jun 2018 8:04pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20300
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Indeed, they don't seem to be an off the shelf item anymore.
I think they were fitted to 50th Annv or at least some models and some NAS 90's in the past. (So I have read online.) I suppose I could get some 1" ones and cut to fit but quite a bit of jiggery pokery involved. It seems they are just slightly angled and with the little ridge in. The La Salle door cards are nice but the cost is just too high in my opinion, if they were half that or near I'd be going for them. Might have to get the fibreglass out instead! ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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24th Jun 2018 8:34pm |
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| LRDefenderGR Member Since: 29 Jul 2018 Location: Ioannina Posts: 2  
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Hi, Is that Pioneer device, standard depth dimension? Around 16cm? Does the TD5 Defender has this allowance when using the Raptor Dash? Thanks Nick |
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29th Jul 2018 7:37pm |
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| ngins Member Since: 15 Jan 2017 Location: Down South Posts: 80
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Hi All,
I finally got phase 1 done. Many Many thanks to all those who answered questions in this forum before I started - it made it so much easier. I am calling it phase 1 as I was running out of hours to complete things to I had to make some decisions as to how much I could get done. The main items I DID get done (in about a day in total with occasional 'help' from two under 5s): Fit MUD Sublocker under cubby Fit Focal Ibus 2.1 Subwoofer/2Ch Amp Fit Focal ES 100K Woofers and Tweeters In Front Fit Focal PC130 In rear The main things I didn't do - I haven't run better speaker/power amp wiring anywhere yet and I used all the stock wiring harness on the Focal Ibus2.1 - at the end of the day, its what came out of the box, but I would still usually upgrade it, but I ran into enough time sapping issues along the way (mainly as it was first time around) that I had to make some decisions to get going. I haven't added any sound proofing yet - but then I also expect a reasonable level of rattle from it and the idea here was to get usable audio more than anything. Box of crimps/lucars, Heat Shrink, Grommets, Soldering Iron as well as a very long, heavy-duty cable tie to pull stuff through holes with were my essential extra tools. General observation - Amazed how many holes there are about the place blocked up from the factory with LR duck tape - but very handy to reuse. Some photos attached where I think they may be useful to others - I have lots more so if there is any particular interest then PM me and happy to share if I have one. Overall very pleased. All the updates made a massive difference I haven't tuned the sub properly yet and I appreciate that under the cubby its compromised but it seems well vented and has lots of space around it for the wiring etc. Cheers Neil The kit to go in - looks simple in the boxes... Click image to enlarge Access Plate under the Cubby with existing LR hole and some extras...(thanks @custom90steve for the tip) Click image to enlarge Using Existing grommet in battery box as suggested by @custom90steve: Click image to enlarge Wiring pulled through Sub Locker base: Click image to enlarge Trusty Cable Tie pulling wiring through to head unit (had to use some taped up split conduit/tube as I ran out of unsplit - but the unspilt is far better. Anyone eagle eyed may spot the missing couple of speaker wires I somehow lost inside the conduit along the way (grrr) Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Sub Cubby All in Place - I added thumb screws for the front faceplate as I am still tweaking settings so it makes access easier - will likely change out for normal machine screws once I am done. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Insanely big crossover: Click image to enlarge Front ES100 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Rears Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Sorry if this is over the top - hope its helpful to others - I really do appreciate all the help and advice on this forum! N |
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30th Jul 2018 9:59am |
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| Hall46 Member Since: 30 Dec 2017 Location: Ayrshire Posts: 42 
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Perfect timing! Have been looking at this thread for the past month trying to decide what I want to do as I am going to sound deaden and upgrade my sound at the same time.
If you have the extra photos I would be interested to see them to hopefully speed up install time. Is it worth the cost/effort of upgrading the speaker wires or is this more for an audiophobe? I am just looking for a less flat sound. Where did you source the speakers from? |
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30th Jul 2018 6:48pm |
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