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Puma_MOG



Member Since: 08 Sep 2017
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 184

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Just back from Land Rover Experience and now a bit confused.
Good day All,

Please be gentle if this is a bit 1st grade!

First off, had a great 1/2 day at the Peckforton Castle Land Rover Experience and did it all in their 65 plate 110. Had 6500 miles on it but clearly a bit of a tough life what with all the difference drivers. Chattering clutch and diff lock would slip out quite easy when in high gear. Aside from that, I came away feeling it drove much better than mine!

Mine is a 14 plate, 37,000 miles.

Two things that have me scratching my head and hoping some of you who are more in the know can help shed some light.

1. Anti-Stall. On the 110, in high gear and no diff lock, letting out on the clutch and letting anti-stall move me along brought on a decent amount of acceleration. On mine, same set up, it barely moves at all! The 110 was practically lurching ahead. Which one is the correct behaviour?

2. This one is more of a confirmation but while on the open road the 110 felt a ton peppier, cleaner gear changes and zero slack on the rear drive shaft compared to mine. I know mine has a ton more miles but was a bit shocked that a bigger and heavier 110 felt so much better in that regard.

I did bring up point #2 in regards to the slack I was feeling in the drivetrain but was told all is to specification. Having never driven another Defender before mine, the power bit is new to me so likely another visit to a different dealer this time.

Any input on the above would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance,

Perry
Post #667024 26th Nov 2017 4:37pm
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NoDo$h



Member Since: 18 Aug 2007
Location: Buried in deer guts in Dorset
Posts: 972

England 
prop and driveshaft slack common on Puma of all ages. Regular greasing of UJs essential Thumbs Up 

54 Freelander modded for mud
2008 D3 SE
2010 90 XS SW
1978 88 Series 3 undergoing surgery with a new owner
2007 90 County Truck Cab - gone
2006 D3 SE - gone
2004 Freelander Sport - gay
1999 Disco V8 ES rotted to bits
Post #667026 26th Nov 2017 4:39pm
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BenB8man



Member Since: 22 Mar 2017
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 429

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Check your rear hub splines too! They're often a cause for lack in the rear Rolling Eyes . Should be able to find plenty on the forum about it if you do a search.

Also, have a quick search for gearbox output shaft too. It won't just show as rear backlash, but that'll give you a clunk when taking up drive.

Ashcroft does upgrades for both. Expensive but worth the reduction of slack and should last quite some time!
Post #667032 26th Nov 2017 4:48pm
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Tompoole



Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Bucks
Posts: 827

England 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Java Black
If your defender has been driven hard or badly then could be a simple drive flange or halfshaft spline ware ....
Pop drive flanges off and check and replace if necessary.
When pulling away always take up slack don’t just drop the clutch ....hard to explain but
Something like brake , clutch up and away you go clunk free Have fun be happy
Post #667033 26th Nov 2017 4:52pm
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Puma_MOG



Member Since: 08 Sep 2017
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 184

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Thank you all for the tips and advice. Greatly appreciated from a novice such as myself.

Still got some warranty so will hit the dealer up again and hopefully sort it out that way before going the aftermarket route.

Thanks again,

P
Post #667066 26th Nov 2017 6:06pm
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flyingfab



Member Since: 14 Jun 2015
Location: Brittany
Posts: 60

France 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Indus Silver
Re: Just back from Land Rover Experience and now a bit confu
Puma_MOG wrote:
Good day All,
1. Anti-Stall. On the 110, in high gear and no diff lock, letting out on the clutch and letting anti-stall move me along brought on a decent amount of acceleration. On mine, same set up, it barely moves at all! The 110 was practically lurching ahead. Which one is the correct behaviour?
Perry


Hi Perry,

This reminds me an idle jack-issue ... Just to be sure : do you actually mean high-range (transfer lever backward) or low-range (transfer lever frontward) ?

In the second case, I would say this is a matter of idle-jack instead of anti-stall : on Puma Defender, in order to avoid too much engine brake when driving downhill on idle, the revs are increased by around 200/300 rpm on first gear, anytime the transfer-box is engaged in low-range.
If your low-range sensor doesn't work properly, the idle-jack won't activate and, as a result, you won't have the sensation of "lurching ahead" you had on the 110 when releasing clutch.

But if you were actually meaning low range, this is probably be a different story. You should tell a dealer about it ... but this is likely to end up like that :

- This is normal, they all do that, Sir.
- But It happens they don't : mine doesn't do it !
- This is normal, they are all different, Sir.
Laughing Mr. Green

More seriously, and still in that case, are you sure your clutch is in good condition ? (not slipping)

Fabien
Post #667237 27th Nov 2017 10:36am
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Merlin



Member Since: 30 Oct 2010
Location: Newmarket
Posts: 981

United Kingdom 
Sounds like you need a re-map. Transformed mine.
Post #667622 28th Nov 2017 8:09pm
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mick



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

England 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red
There all different mines over 120 K but the lads at Stonelake say it’s as good and better than some with little miles on.
Post #667627 28th Nov 2017 8:16pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
the 110's do ride better as standard, much less pitching because of the longer chassis. If it's been driven hard then it gives the engine a good clear out. I found with my Puma engined X-Type as well as my Defender, taking it for a good blast and getting the engine up to temp for a bit makes them run much better.

Little bits of slack in all the different parts of the drive train soon add up. Even wear in the bottom of the gearstick makes a surprising difference. I would think your's probably already has the one piece rear drive shafts?

The adaptor shaft between your gearbox and transfer box will likely be worn, and even a bit of play in each of the propshaft UJ's will add to it.
Post #667630 28th Nov 2017 8:19pm
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Puma_MOG



Member Since: 08 Sep 2017
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 184

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Thanks again All for the great tips. I will take it all on board and check out what has been suggested.

In short, no remap yet as I'm still in warranty and all the drivetrain bits are original so likely a bit of wear and tear needs tending.

With that said, came away loving the 90 even more after the LR Experience and can't wait to get mine out and hope to do soon!

Once again, thanks Thumbs Up
Post #667765 29th Nov 2017 8:44pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8051

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
some experience centres run remapped vehicles, like some dealers run remapped vehicles, its all a sales thing, as was when they were all in production. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #667772 29th Nov 2017 8:49pm
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