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Phil VM2.5



Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Limelette
Posts: 196

Belgium 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
cooling puma 2.2
Hi,
I have change the oil cooler, oil in the cooling instalation.
My difficulties is that when I filling the engine, the temperature is very low (6 °C) during 10 or 15 minutes and then go up quickly to 110° C ....
Is there a good way to fill up the cooling circuit ?

Thanks for Help
Philippe current : defender 110 sw 2.2 puma 2012 and 230.000km today and
again my Range Rover VM2.5 engine from 1992 and 528.000km today.

One ten 1988 to 1992
1987 BMW GS80
One Ten from 1984 to 1987
One Ten from 1983 to 1984
Serie 3 109 from 1980 to 1983
from 1974 Jeep CJ3B and CJ6
Post #662824 9th Nov 2017 12:09pm
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Phil VM2.5



Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Limelette
Posts: 196

Belgium 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Hi,
I have change the thermostat, seems to be ok.
Nevertheless it is an afull job and stil oil in the cooling circuit even if I have work a lot to try to clean it.
Phil current : defender 110 sw 2.2 puma 2012 and 230.000km today and
again my Range Rover VM2.5 engine from 1992 and 528.000km today.

One ten 1988 to 1992
1987 BMW GS80
One Ten from 1984 to 1987
One Ten from 1983 to 1984
Serie 3 109 from 1980 to 1983
from 1974 Jeep CJ3B and CJ6
Post #663402 11th Nov 2017 10:58am
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CaptainDan



Member Since: 14 Apr 2017
Location: Victoria
Posts: 53

Australia 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Alaska White
Hi Guys, I am looking for somewhere to post this thread. I had a really bad day today. My 2.2 L Puma broke down again this time it went into limp mode but no warning lights, the temp gauge hit the roof so dropped back to 3rd and 4th temp immediately returned to normal. Coolant level seemed ok and power came back to normal.

Rang the local LR specialist (not dealership) and flatbed to them, seem the entire contents of the radiator has been dumped through the EGR and cooler and vaporised out the exhaust, this is why the pressure test was ok and there were no leaks on the driveway.

Looking for anyone else who has heard of this as the LR people hadn't. Now looking to closed the EGR and hopefully not real serious damage. Current cost to repair AUD $2.5 k. One thing they did try before declaring warped head and stuffed engine is they pulled the hoses off the cooler and bypassed the engine then started coughed and farted a lot but did run normally which it would not do before.

Anyone had similar problems or heard of this problem before?

Thanks

Daniel
Post #665689 20th Nov 2017 9:31am
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b_jabu



Member Since: 30 Nov 2017
Location: KZN
Posts: 1

South Africa 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Alaska White
it sounds to me like you have a hairline crack in the cylinder head. i have looked into this alot and its strangely uncommon outside South africa. here however its seems to be every other one. locally there have been guys with new (less than 50,000kms) who have traveled 20,000 kms with a cracked head. the only indication there was a problem was when the water level kept dropping. when everything else had been ruled out, it lead to the head being cracked (or at least the gasket blown). this seems to be a problem that gradually gets worse and the typical diagnostics don't raise alarm bells. in many cases JLR have replaced the whole engine for nothing, i even heard of one chap getting a new engine after he chipped it and was just out of warranty. the typical pressure tests don't get up to the temperatures where the crack opens and so the test come back negative. you will find that towing uphill on a hot day you have problems.
what has been suggested here is the cooling system just isn't good enough for the pretty tried and tested engine. personally i have installed a larger intercooler and i would suggest this is a mod that everyone should do to help the system run cooler and prevent these cracks.
Post #667933 30th Nov 2017 1:15pm
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CaptainDan



Member Since: 14 Apr 2017
Location: Victoria
Posts: 53

Australia 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Alaska White
Hi Yes the head is the problem and as you describe it has been a very gradual lost of coolant hardly notice it. In my case it was a failed EGR let water into the engine and caused the problem vaporising through the exhaust. It turns out the head was cracked and warped requiring an new head Mega $$$$$ repair just before Christmas Big Cry Lesson to be learned by anyone with this engine 2.2 Duratec if you find the heater starts to fail and cannot figure out why, so when you stop or slow down with the heater on and it goes cold then suspect this problem. This occurred over a number of weeks and I bled the coolant system suspecting an air lock. It fixed the problem and the heater returned to normal. But the coolant continued to drop very very slowly. There were no visible leaks and no water on the ground or any staining of coolest int he engine bay. This is because the the coolant was being vaporised through the exhaust as nothing to see until the day the temp gauge went off the scale and within two kms the damage was done. As I said all the signs were there if you were able to read them. My LR mech had only heard of this problem a few times but does not help my pain when he wants $8k AUD to fix it. Agree with your comment re the intercooler I have fitted the Alisport radiator and intercooler and made a big difference. Ah well don't think santa will be bringing me much this year.
Post #668183 1st Dec 2017 9:42am
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CaptainDan



Member Since: 14 Apr 2017
Location: Victoria
Posts: 53

Australia 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 HCPU Alaska White
Hi All, unfortunately another tale of woe and failed 2.2 Duratec engine, since my last post which ended up costing 8.5k AUD and having the ERG fixed and a new head etc etc today I find that the cooling system is being presurised from the engine some how, either another cracked head, blown head gasket or cracked cylinder its done 19k since this repair.

The cooling system is under pressure which has destroyed my Allisport radiator and who knows what else A radiator specialist today confirmed the failed radiator was not as a result of stray current or cooling water contamination. The engine has only done 138K from new and I am at a point where I seriously consider my options of keeping this vehicle.

A question what experience or advice can anyone give me on replacing the 2.2 engine with something more reliable like an Izusu motor.


Thanks
Post #710872 5th Jun 2018 10:33am
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