 | Home > Technical > Main relay on Defender? ** Car still randomly cutting out ** |
 
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554  |
2.4 or 2.2 defender ?
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10th Sep 2017 5:35pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750 
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Sorry should have said 2.4 thanks
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10th Sep 2017 7:05pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
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10th Sep 2017 9:10pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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hello
Thanks is it this one then?  Click image to enlarge |
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10th Sep 2017 9:16pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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In fact no.2 and no.3 look to be the same relay?
So worth changing? http://www.paddockspares.com/ywb500060-relay.html |
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10th Sep 2017 9:26pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello Stacey007
Yes you are correct... 2, 3, (5, 6 and 8 if fitted are all the same) YWB500060 Worth keeping a Spare in the Vehicle, also when changing over, ensure there is a really good positive connection into its receiving connector...'nip up' receiving connector block female connections, also you can give a slight (a few degrees) twist to the spade elements on the new Relay to help it make a good connection when inserted. My 2.4... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Hope you sort your issue... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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11th Sep 2017 10:28am |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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Thanks,
Rang dealer as want an Original one, only £6.05 ex vat Also my local garage this morning rang an auto electrician he said it could be the Switch behind the ignition? This part is £48.09 ex vat so let's see if changing the relay first does anything? I hope so.... |
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11th Sep 2017 10:53am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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Hello again...
I'm no electrician but what is this
you (your auto electrician) speak of... 
My 'logic' says that there are two things going on here... 1 every thing needs to be right to start the vehicle and 2 certain things need to be right and maintained to keep the vehicle running... You appears to have an issue with the second, so now the question is what are these 'factors' (systems) that appear to be 'intermittent'...
A Vehicle cutting out...(while running) is worrying... 
As maddening as it was at the time I think I would have preferred my intermittent Starting Problem, eventually traced to a single connection on the ignition switch. Good Luck... SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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11th Sep 2017 11:35am |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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Hello
I will collect a couple of relays after work, This is the switch behind the ignition? , the bit you put the key in this must connect on the other end? the garage the auto electrician uses has seen this wear before now? I will try the relay first though.. Click image to enlarge Too be honest, myself and the garage would prefer the car to stop, not start and throw out a fault code... then we could trace the problem change the bit and all would be good, Driving along 'waiting for it' to stop isn't the best....  |
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11th Sep 2017 1:23pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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Hello Stacey007
OK I get it now... 
I also agree, 'break and stay broke' at least gives you a fighting chance... rather than the 'will she or won't she' stress of an intermittent fault...
I too had No Fault Codes... Click image to enlarge Main Ignition Switch from below...Key on the left...'replaceable' Ignition Switch 'Contacts Unit' on the right... Click image to enlarge I didn't know this was a replacement item, there is next to no room back there, so without removing the whole unit from the steering column I can imagine its a real...  to do. The overall unit (assembly) has security headed bolts that look to require knocking out (drifting around with a center punch would probably work) but if you (someone) can get to the rear of this then best to leave in place...
Main Ignition Switch from above another view of set up looks to be a cross point screw (or 2) towards the rear that may be involved in securing the Ignition Switch Contacts... Click image to enlarge Close Up This is the best Close Up I have...for me the 'culprit' was the Red White wire, switching the power back to the Starter Relay (No 3) the connection was just poor... Click image to enlarge I still don't see (understand) how when the Vehicle is running these elements if they fail would stop the Engine as their job is to start it... (someone on D2N will know) Good Luck SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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11th Sep 2017 2:00pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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^ I took the dashboard pod out the other night.
Wiggles all the wires I could find while engine running and nothing happend. You're right it looks like a pain to swap the part on the right but mechanic seems to think ok? so it's on order. The mechanic is still at a loss why it cuts out, I'm no better off and not sure where to turn. My friend who is a house electrician says he will try and find the wiring diagram for this car and look at this. He is sure it's to do with a main relay (I've changed) and no earth straps, I had a week out of it last week, driving fine. then on Saturday for no reason just cuts off. When I say cuts off... You're driving along (although its also stopped on the drive while doing nothing) and then nothing. No Dials No engine No power steering Mileometer and trip go off. You roll to a stop turn it back on and it's fine again... it will drive normally for a week or more before anything happens again. NO fault codes either... I'm going to try to reseat the relays... but not sure what I can do? |
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2nd Oct 2017 2:07pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20367
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Have a chat with Gary @ Alive.
It's starting to sound to me possibly electronic. There is nothing to say that the ECM may need replacing if all else fails, it has been known but rare. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª |
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2nd Oct 2017 2:12pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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^ E-mail send
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2nd Oct 2017 2:36pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6605 
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The OEM (non LR branded, same part) of the switch is about £17 rather than £57
When it cuts out: Does the radio go off? When the mileometer comes back on has the trip counter reset back to 0.0? Do other things running (wipers) go off? Does wiggling the key rather than switching off and back on again do anything? There's not one single "main relay" which controls ignition switched circuits, the switch itself handles the most of the power. There is an additional ignition relay controlled by the main switch but that is for the wipers/washers, and heated seats/electric windows (if fitted). The engine ECU detects the ignition coming on and then powers up its own relay. Sounds like it might be the switch, with the ignition contacts opening up and cutting the power. 1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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2nd Oct 2017 2:44pm |
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