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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720   
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I don't see why it wouldn't, it's basically the same as the mini one i posted above, you would probably need to fit a hose between the flow and return of the heater on the engine side of the valve to act as a heater bypass when the valve is closed, the MGRV8 probably already has one.
I might experiment come winter, no point doing it in summer as it would be impossible to tell if the heater was still good enough. |
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9th Jun 2017 9:55am |
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| pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568 
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ZSD-Puma I don't actually know if there is a bypass pipe! However it's the CUX14 3.9 rover motor, mines done 19k miles so haven't had too burger around too much with it!
 that been said there's only a pipe in and out of the heater matrix. plenty on here will know much more than me on these motors. |
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9th Jun 2017 11:32am |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351
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Revisited the cheap and cheerful tap today, pulled the vacuum bit off which made things a lot clearer. Pretty happy it will work exactly the same as the OE tap.
All the ports on the new tap are 16mm OD. Which is the same as the OE tap with the exception of the return from the heater, which is 18mm OD. I figure if I cut the OE return pipe off but include the cable mount and bolt mount it can fit securely into the OE piping and positioning. It appears the OE pipe after the mont goes back to 16mm OD, but has a strengthening rib that runs along it which can easily file off. I can then fit that into moulded 16mm ID elbow all should work. Also think the dial on the dash will work as originally coloured, just it will go from cold to hot probably in 10mm of movement, so won't actually leave cold, but better than being cold around on the hot section. The bit the cable mounts to on the new tap is a bit smaller than the OE, so that bit is yet to be solved.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge My Defender and travels |
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10th Jun 2017 9:05am |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351
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I've cut down off the pipe and you can see with or without rib. I used a bit of sandpaper on where the rubber would sit to give it better gripping possibilities.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I tried to put a lip on this spare just heating it on the stove then pressing it on a hard surface.
One thing I have noticed, I have 75mm difference in length from old tap top new tap in regards to where and how the cable mounts. Hope there is a bit spare floating around under the dash. My Defender and travels |
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10th Jun 2017 10:15am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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Make the actuator arm on the valve longer, so it gives it more throw, that'll give you full movement on the dash control. |
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10th Jun 2017 11:10am |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351
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cracking idea zsd, I note the OE part has about 2cm of movement.
So I pulled the OE lever off and fitted it to the new metal arm. It sat a bit wonky and had no way of gripping the round arm. Thought about glue but decided against it. So I got out the trusty desert repair kit which has a 3mm dremel head. Lucky the OE shank has a bit of fat so I ground a seat for the round arm to sit in. It was still a bit wonky so using washers and the press ring that comes with the cheap and cheer full tap, slid it down to hold the washers in place. However this also gave the OE lever grip on the bottom of the arm as well. The OE part has a square mount, which fits nicely into the round crimped bit of the new clip. Couple zip ties and its firm as. Still a bit off square but I can live with that, I don't want to chase perfection and stuff it. Just need to pop down to the wreckers and pick up 16mm house with an elbow and I think I'm ready to fit. Thinking I'll be out of it for $35AU all up. Down here a new heater tap kicks of at $150 and some of us know that's up for renewal in under 4 years. So will see if this bad boy goes the distance. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge My Defender and travels |
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10th Jun 2017 11:04pm |
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| Tissue box Member Since: 01 Jan 2017 Location: Northampton Posts: 9 
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Hi
Last week Having used the air con in my LHD Puma 2007 130 for six weeks abroad and it blowing cold air well all the time I made the mistake of trying to mix some warm air to reduce the Artic temperature of the air con as you would do in a more modern vehicle once back in Blighty. However I had massive heat levels especially on the driver side ( my side LHD) which over whelmed the a/c but turning the heater dial back to cold made no difference for 100 miles and we boiled at 30c outside temperature in the heat wave! Next day having stood overnight the heat was gone when driving and the air con worked fine again. Moral is don't touch the heater in the summer as the heater matrix seems unable to cool down or have I got a stuck valve in this plastic valve as shown on the thread? The heater really spoils the vehicle , driver roasting in winter but passenger cold and the same if the air con is overwhelmed by the heater dial being moved to half way on. Is there an aftermarket fix for a better heater matrix? Richard 130 HCPU Tonga green white wolf wheels used to carry my Tischer demountable camper. |
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23rd Jun 2017 2:01pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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No there isn't. However a standard Puma heater is still a million times better than the older ones, at least one of you will be warm in a Puma.  |
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23rd Jun 2017 2:28pm |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351
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Tissue box, its quite probable that your OE tap doesn't turn off completely. And I'd be checking for leaks now you have used it. Plus being an 07 build that tap is getting on now. Fine for everything else but we are talking about Defenders here.
Assuming you have the hot/cold internal dial on full cold. Pop the bonnet and go to the opposite side to the steering wheel your heater tap will be high on the fire wall. Locate the cable the runs across the fire wall to the tap, and then the little black arm it attaches too on the back of the tap. Then push down on that arm in the direction it mostly is leaning. On my RHD it was towards me and I could move it another 1/4. So even on full cold I was getting just a little warm air mixing with it. This may explain why many Aussies feel the air con could be better. I can;t say I noticed and degree's cooler in the cab, but as ZSD-puma has mentioned, its their best effort thus far. I did not that my OE tap I cut up, if I blew into the intake side while supposedly closed it had a smallish leak. I pondered if this is manufactured into it to allow a slow turn over of water through out the whole cooling system. Maybe prevent stale heater matrix water, or some sort of isolated contamination. When I did the same excise with my cheap and cheerful replacement their was no air leaking. I guess the leak was nothing more than the reason I was changing it. My Defender and travels |
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23rd Jun 2017 8:03pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17455 
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For info, I've just checked the spare valve I have waiting for the next failure, and with the water valve in the cold or off position, both heater pipes are totally and 100% sealed, even blowing as hard as I can there is no hint of leakage.
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23rd Jun 2017 9:20pm |
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| CaptainDan Member Since: 14 Apr 2017 Location: Victoria Posts: 53 
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Hi All
I need some guidance, the heater in my 2013 Defender has suddenly stopped blowing warm air. The fan is working and there are no leaks and the engine gets to temp as normal within a couple of Kms. If I turn the heater off for a while there is some warm air but this soon disappears. The vents are also working. I thought if might be the valve but have not pulled this off as yet to have a look. Anyone go any ideas Thanks Daniel |
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4th Sep 2017 8:40am |
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| Sockpuppet Member Since: 17 Sep 2011 Location: Leicester Posts: 479
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Run engine to temp and turn heather on full. See if hot water is going to the heater core from the "Heater In" spigot on that valve.
if not it's either the valve internals or the linkage making it work. |
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4th Sep 2017 11:35am |
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| CaptainDan Member Since: 14 Apr 2017 Location: Victoria Posts: 53
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Thanks for help I fiddled about with the valve and found that the cable had just slipped through the clip so all fixed.
Thanks again Daniel |
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6th Sep 2017 9:23am |
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| newhue Member Since: 28 Apr 2014 Location: Brisbane Posts: 351
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Ok of course winter has passed so I finally got around to fitting the cheap fix today.
I popped down the wreckers and found a heater pipe with an elbow off anything. Just so happens it was a 94 Nissan, and yes the hose is in top top shape. Ahh those Japanese, $5 now thats got to better than LR spec and prices. Click image to enlarge My original plan was to use the OE pipe as the mount and cable retainer. Sadly the new heater tap configuration didn't allow.
I still used the pipework however to connect the new tap and the elbow with the OE pipes. You have to file the spine off the OE pipe. Click image to enlarge And to my wonder, hey presto it worked. No leaks, full in cab dial control, and dare I say actual variation in heat. I can't guarantee that 100% as it was a hot day. But it was much hotter on full than half with the fan on flat out. Not the prettiest I have to admit, and held in place with zip ties, but a whole lot cheaper than the guaranteed to fail expansive OE part. Click image to enlarge Will report stability and durability in due course. My Defender and travels |
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30th Sep 2017 8:19am |
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