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custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Clutch switch

Think mine is playing up, getting the occasional over Rev on changing up a gear.
It's very annoying and affects the drive.

What have others done? Replace or bridge?
If replace what's it like to do? They aren't that expensive at about £25.
However, I've read that many just bridge it and have done with it.

Mines a 57 2.4 Puma.

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
ðŸ‡¬ðŸ‡§ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª

18th Mar 2017 5:32pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Anyone? $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
ðŸ‡¬ðŸ‡§ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª

19th Mar 2017 2:01pm

roel

Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

I have a td5 and my clutch switch was disconected years ago. More power on take off te get up a steep hill.

But as you have a Puma I don't know how it affects you. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)

19th Mar 2017 2:22pm

tobz102

Member Since: 07 Feb 2014
Location: Atherstone
Posts: 134

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey

Did mine a few months ago, the fitting is a pig to get on and I needed a crows foot spanner... When I loosened it the housing came with it and was then a pain to do back up and not leak, got there eventually though. Had to bleed the clutch after. One of those simple jobs that turns into a couple of hours, but if i'd been aware the housing was coming away at the time I could've saved myself an hour of faffing trying to refit it.

It's all good now though!, think there's some pics in my album?

19th Mar 2017 2:43pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Roel - I believe the TD5 and TD4 are different. I think the TD4 has to be replaced or bridged but the TD5 can just be unplugged.

Tobz - Thank-you for the info, that is a bit more than I intended really.
I pumped the clutch a few times before setting off today, and no rev on gearchance.
So I'm even more sure it's the switch now.

There is further information on this, on the TD5 and TD4 one has N/O contacts the other N/C contacts.
I cannot remember which off the top of my head.

However, I have heard many with TD5's as Roel suggests simply unplug.
With a Puma, some replaced, some have bridged the switch with perfect results.

It suggests to me the Puma is a N/C switch, the TD5 N/O.

I'm curious to hear anybody's solutions to bridging it, and how things went.
I know members here have done this.

For reference. (Many know this anyway)

N/C = Normally Closed switch contacts.

N/O Normally Open switch contacts.

19th Mar 2017 5:41pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Update on this, some of you may be curious....

Clutch switch I did indeed find to be faulty, it appeared to be intermittent and sporadic.
And very very annoying giving the drive a feeling of something mechanically wrong when there wasn't.

I have not removed the switch or replaced it. (Which could have been done.)

Indeed I have disabled it and bypassed it, with no issues in fact with a better drive.

The previous issues are now gone and also have better control.

I used to get a bit of a lurch and over rev on gear change which made for an awful drive.
Especially when colder or in lower gears.

The rev to approx 1100 or so rpm when in low range is also gone which I hated, however the anti stall is still 100% operational as is the diff lock light etc etc.

If you choose to disable the clutch switch on the Puma you must make sure it's kept a closed circuit. The opposite to a TD5 of which on a TD5 you can just unplug it no problem.
A Puma is not quite so simple, but not difficult.

I removed the battery negative. (As per normal safety practice to shut everything down.)
Removed the clutch switch plug from the switch.
Now these plugs are known as Junior Power Timer plugs. (Many thanks to PaulMC for identifying these.)
These are avaible for purchase online and in this instance a 2 - pole.

Purchase a Male plug with Make pins and seals and fit a wire loop as shown:

Click image to enlarge
This simply plugs into the LR harness Female plug, and can be zip tied out of the way.
This doesn't damage the harness wiring in any way so no splicing and totally reversible should you wish.

The location of the existing clutch switch Male plug, I simply purchased a Female. J.P.T. connector with no pins or seals this time, Silicone sealed the cable entries to prevent ingress and fitted it.
See pic:

Click image to enlarge

It then tidies the clutch switch area up, so it no longer looks like obviously something has been un-plugged or missing.
If you have a fully working clutch switch, it also preserves it in good condition should you wish to reverse to mod.

I have not had any MIL or any DTC's doing this, and has made for a better all round drive with better control.
In particular in low range.
Anti stall us fully operational still in low and high as expected.

2nd Aug 2017 4:08pm

ickle

Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1782

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White

Thanks Steve,

very useful to know that it disables the rev hand in low range - I like to use low on a difficult trailer reverse into the garage and the 1100 rev is just a little too fast, so your mod will be on the to do list!

Cheers keith

2nd Aug 2017 7:32pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

I was concerned it may disable the anti stall also.
But I was pleased to notice it doesn't at all.

I've ran this since early this year for months nowwith zero issues.

The J.P.T. Connectors are around £12 I think for both or around that region. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
ðŸ‡¬ðŸ‡§ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ¥ó ®ó §ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ·ó ¬ó ³ó ¿ðŸ´ó §ó ¢ó ³ó £ó ´ó ¿ðŸ‡®ðŸ‡ªðŸ‡ºðŸ‡¸â›½ï¸ðŸ›¢ï¸âš™ï¸ðŸ§°ðŸ’ª

2nd Aug 2017 7:39pm

Jonnyfive

Member Since: 18 Dec 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 25

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Zambezi Silver

I really need to do mod, it's driving me nuts when it's playing up.

Steve, what size cable is it please, so I can get the right pins.

2nd Aug 2017 8:08pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

2.5mm IIRC. However I used slightly oversized 3mm2 wire at the time as that was what I had.
There isn't really any load on it to worry much.
But I'm pretty sure the pins were 2.5mm.

2nd Aug 2017 9:28pm

Jonnyfive

Member Since: 18 Dec 2016
Location: Devon
Posts: 25

Thank you Steve

3rd Aug 2017 5:31am

grafty99

Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4785

Just a little point for Td5 owners, if you unplug the clutch switch on a Td5 it will stop the factory cruise control working

Which is strange as its a N/O switch

Unless it open with high resistance so the ECU can test the switch before engaging cruise control.

For this reason I'm constantly connecting and disconnecting mine depending on whether I'm going on a long trip or driving locally.

I really must wire a relay into the cruise master switch so it disconnects the clutch switch when cruise is off

2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton

3rd Aug 2017 6:50am

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20376

Grafty99 - Interesting. A switch definitely sounds like the best solution.

3rd Aug 2017 10:42am

roel

Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

grafty99 wrote:
Just a little point for Td5 owners, if you unplug the clutch switch on a Td5 it will stop the factory cruise control working

Which is strange as its a N/O switch Unless it open with high resistance so the ECU can test the switch before engaging cruise control.

For this reason I'm constantly connecting and disconnecting mine depending on whether I'm going on a long trip or driving locally.

I really must wire a relay into the cruise master switch so it disconnects the clutch switch when cruise is off

My cruise control still works. If I press the clutch the CC still deactivates as it senses a ref increase and no speed increase. The same as it deactivates when your clutch is worn.

My CC is a few switches connected to the ECU so not really factory but using the factory software. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)

3rd Aug 2017 4:39pm

grafty99

Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4785

Mine won't activate with the clutch switch disconnected at all. Very odd! 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton

3rd Aug 2017 9:04pm

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