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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582

United Kingdom 
Hi Steve , there are conversion sites for candela to lumens.

Have a look here

Now this calculation is very sensitive to the apex angle.

382600 candela at 5 degrees is equivalent of 1965 lumens

382600 candela at 10 degrees is equivalent of 7856 lumens

382600 candela at 15 degrees is equivalent of 17763 lumens.

So calculation is very sensitive to apex angle.


Now we run light force on one of our vehicles. Now it eyeballhas a different colour temperature being more yellow then LED light.

So using my rather old Mk 1 eyeball (extremely scientific, NOT) I would say that the light force lights are at or below the lower figure above.

HTH


Brendan
Post #589500 2nd Jan 2017 6:14pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 922

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
an incandescent 100watt will produce about 1600 lumen output.

BUT

Don't confuse a simple lumen figure as a basis on choosing a light, a lot of these figures are banded about as a quick way to impress and IMHO partial mislead into believing it is a true comparison to determine overall performance. Look for and as I did above for photometric data charts using Lux readings to give a proper comparison. If a manufacturer has included these then you can compare fairly.

Use this site >> http://www.theledlight.com/lumens.html
Digest the info and you can see there is a difference and drawing on that information you can rightly say just using a lumens figure doesn't take account of the design of the light and the quality of the reflector, Ultimately a very crucial part of the overall make up and performance of the light you see in the real world.
Post #589510 2nd Jan 2017 6:22pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20580

United Kingdom 
Brendan - I would tend to agree on that, the LF have their own Halogen glow at a life angle of degree but most light is concentrated in around a 5 degree spot.
(I never adjust them to flood as headlights do that perfectly well, or at least the Noldens will! Whistle )
So it does indeed seem to be there is some gains I could achieve and as I'm mainly looking for spotlight purposes the direction for that is most likely HID.
Maybe one day LED's will outsweep them across the board but for everything bar long distance LED's win the battle.
Back a few years ago, LED's were awful little things no good for anything bar things light a switch indicator or similar.

How times change, in this instance for the better.

I'm not sure if one day I will upgrade my Roos to take HID or buy 170mm HID LF's. I'm not sure if it's so easy to upgrade as such though.
I'll have to look into that in detail.

All Spots have gone up in price drastically around 3 years ago.
I got mine fur £162 a pair iirc in 2010. They are around £200 now I believe and LF are much more again.
Whilst Roos are often seen and though of as a copy of LF, they have given me 7 years of trouble free use.
Not once have I had an issue, not even a bulb blow.

Thumbs Up KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #589517 2nd Jan 2017 6:35pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20580

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Devon-Rover - Thank-you for the info.
Just one of the many reasons to avoid cheap eBay items and stick to good brands, most eBay ads as you say just give impressive figures.
When it comes to, current draw is lower than specified the driver is poor quality and output is often way below that is stated KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #589521 2nd Jan 2017 6:39pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 922

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
The Roo's are a good light and IMHO pound for pound on the Lf 140's for performance. I did toy with the concept of changing them to HID too but alas never found them that lacking in performance to spur me into doing it. and ultimately I only sold them when I upgraded from the Roo - Lazer ST8 combo to a single Triple R 1000.

And your right with the cost I remember the first one's I got were about £70 each and no one else had brought them from my local supplier. I think they are about £100 each.
Post #589533 2nd Jan 2017 7:02pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20580

United Kingdom 
Aren't the LF 140's slightly smaller and 55w or so?

I'm looking around at HID kits now, many seem concentric to LF 240's though.
Personally I can't see any difference in them except for differences in reflector sizes. KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #589534 2nd Jan 2017 7:11pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 922

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
Typo on my part I meant the 170's Rolling Eyes

I do have this in my bookmarks which I kept for further info should I have continued on the Roo HID conversion. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/thre...s-of-Pics)
Post #589540 2nd Jan 2017 7:29pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
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I'll have a read now, thank-you once again. Thumbs Up KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #589549 2nd Jan 2017 7:49pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8582

United Kingdom 
In last 10 years the exchange rate of AUD 2.5 to a low of 1.46 AUD to £

In last year the exchange rate has dropped from about 2.07 AUD to current 1.7 AUD to £

That is about a 20% decrease in exchange rate with AUD which is compatible to the USD, Euro etc

Cost of shipping a container has gone up by about £2,000.

So it is hardly surprising about price increases.



With LED grades just have a look here This will give you a rough idea about the range of properties that LEDs have. Just saying that the LEDs used by any particular LED lightbar manufacturer comes from a well respected LED maker does not mean it is one of their higher end grades of LED. I have not looked into who actually makes the drivers which actually powers the LED.

If there are large price differences between similar sounding/looking lights maybe this explains some of the differences.

Isolux graphs can be useful however having the diagrams taken out to 0.25 lux is in my mind stretching it a bit in my mind.

At 60mph, twice your stopping distance is about 150 metres , 300 metres is about the distance you will travel at 60mph in 10 seconds. So when looking at isolux diagrams consider the width and contours up to about 300 metres max.



Brendan
Post #589560 2nd Jan 2017 8:23pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20580

United Kingdom 
Brendan - Thumbs Up

Devon Rover - Having spent a couple of hours this evening looking at all this and your link.
The info contained on that link has been invaluable and very helpful.
Now following on from that, I have found on eBay this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lightforce-240-B...xyzi9SkHrs

This adapter appears to void any modifying required and fits LF 140 / 170 / 240.
At least prevent modifying the mount at least anyway.
Not overly cheap as such and would need importing this including a delivery wait.
May need a thread tapping on it, I don't currently have tap and dies and would need some screws too.
But on the whole a good find.
If anything went pear shaped I'd still have the original holders untouched too.

There are various HID kits around, el' cheapo and quality brands ranging from 50w to 120w for good prices.
My wiring I have I set up for 100w each Halogen, Relay I think is 30A or 40A one of the two can tquite remmeber.
Draw currently is 100w, 16A a pair or there abouts. 120w HID's draw around 20A a pair.
My wiring I used is overkill gauge I think 3mm primary power feeds rated up to 33A or more.
(Inc taking into account losses etc too)

So current set up can take it no problem at all.

Looks like a good option to consider, something I will look into after sorting Noldens and looms etc.

It looks like shortly I'll have a lot of bits and pieces to wiring and in time plan a comprehensive wiring job to fit two fuse boxes. (BlueSea)
So thank-you for all your input to everyone who has contributed, and I will update in time. KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #589584 2nd Jan 2017 9:10pm
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