 | Home > Td5 > clutch bleeding and feel. |
 
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 933   
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You've likely still got air in it. It shoukd be steady pressure from the start 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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20th Dec 2016 4:04pm |
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| Welkman Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Essex colchester Posts: 326 
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Yep ! Just got a few more bubbles out of it and it is a lot better but not perfect. Any tips on getting it totally bled? Should I drive it for a bit and then have another go at bleeding it?
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20th Dec 2016 5:40pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 933
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I suspect that you could do that and bleed again in a short while. I prefer to pump and bleed it out at the slave but it seems you are comfortable with what you are doing. Keep going... 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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20th Dec 2016 5:54pm |
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 |
You could try reverse bleeding it where you force fluid up from the slave to the master, or, sucking fluid down from the master without pumping with the peddle, or, having someone pump the peddle with the bleed nipple shut and hold it down, release nipple and expel the fluid and close nipple, release peddle and repeat process. Good luck
 I started with nothing and still have most of it left! |
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20th Dec 2016 5:55pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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On the TDCi the line goes up from the master (over/behind the ECU) before it goes down to the slave.
A perfect bubble trap. 
My theory is that you gotta push hard and fast to keep them from coming back up in to that area while doing a standard bleed. Is it the same on a TD5? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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20th Dec 2016 6:01pm |
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| Vogler Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Brussels Posts: 309  
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Take care in pushing hard and fast. If you inadvertedly empty the master cylinder and push (not even that hard) on the pedal, chances are likely that you'll destroy a valve in the master and you'll have to replace it.
BTDT, although I knew the risk was there and was careful when emptying the system. I only wanted to admit that it happened to me after I put 2 liters of Dot4 through the system and still couldn't shift gear. Reverse bleeding works ace because you push the air upwards, the direction it wants to go. On a Td5 it also helps to jack up the front to limit the possibility of air being trapped in the slave. Not sure about a bubble trap in the Td5 as you describe it, don't think it is there. Greetings, Joris. |
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20th Dec 2016 7:24pm |
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| Vogler Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Brussels Posts: 309
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I remember having read that it might become better if you let the car sit overnight with the pedal blocked in the bottom position, by using a piece of timber between the seat box and the pedal. No idea if it is true though...
J |
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20th Dec 2016 7:28pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2645 
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All Defenders, and Series III for that matter, have the clutch pipe go up and over the top of the engine bay before descending down to the slave cylinder. However I have never found them difficult to bleed.
I've always just bled them enough to get a working pedal, and then over the next day or two the rest of the air works it's way up to the top (helped by the larger diameter of the pipework - 1/4" rather than 3/16" for brakes) through normal operation. Then just top up the reservoir. |
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20th Dec 2016 7:32pm |
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| Welkman Member Since: 02 Nov 2014 Location: Essex colchester Posts: 326
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Well I pumped a litre through and it is much better but not 100% I may just leave it and hope the bubbles surface before topping up. I am reluctant to reverse bleed as I will have to empty out the master cylinder and introduce more air into the system from the slave end.
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20th Dec 2016 8:02pm |
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 |
Don't empty the master cylinder resovoir completely, leave enough fluid to cover the inlet port of the cylinder when reverse bleeding, and watch it does not overfill obviously. I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
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20th Dec 2016 8:22pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2769
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I have had the same issue on more than one occasion with bleeding a TD5 clutch.
No matter what you do, there's free play at the top of the pedal and the biting point is too low. The solution is to bleed the clutch so you end up with the above. Then wedge the pedal down overnight with a piece of wood or similar. Next morning the pedal will be perfect with no free play. |
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21st Dec 2016 6:54pm |
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| Bobbyg Member Since: 05 Jan 2017 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 26  
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Hi after meny years of trying to get clutch operation without success I changed both the slave and master cylinder set up the master cylinder as per manual bleed meny times still no clutch presure.is
 there a way to view the clutch operation with the gear box in place.my landrover is a 2a converted to a 88 coiler with a 2.5 petrol engine.i bought the landy in bits ie engine was still to fit when I got it.could it be a mismatch of parts .if I can't sort this out its going up for sale .any ideas .
Thanks Bob |
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14th Sep 2019 8:51am |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2227 
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Do you have the correct length push rod fitted between slave and fork ?
Is the slave cylinder the right way up with the bleed nipple at the top. Is it the right clutch ? Is the friction plate fitted the right way round ? How is it not working ? Slipping ? Dragging ? No operation at all ? These will all stop the clutch working as it should. Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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14th Sep 2019 10:33am |
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| Bobbyg Member Since: 05 Jan 2017 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 26
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Hi I have used the slave cylinder rod that came with the truck,I have the bleed nipple at the top of the cylinder.the clutch
Plate was free ok ,and in the correct position when I refitted it.i,m trying to avoid removing the engine again.is there some inspection plate to watch the operation of the clutch.its tempting to off load the landy and let some else have a play. Thanks Bob |
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14th Sep 2019 5:28pm |
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