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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1681
Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
If you’re doing the pump the pedal way:

Don’t pump the pedal all the way to the bottom when first bleeding it, they always have dirt in the bottom and it’ll ruin the seals.

Cheap master and slave cylinders aren’t even worth fitting, the quality is terrible- Even some branded OEM

As Mo says make sure the slave is fitted nipple at top!

The way i do them is:

Go and buy an old school oil can and a piece of hose that fits the nipple, fill your master up a bit, take the oil can filled with fluid and pump it up the hose until it’s at the top- then pinch the hose with your fingers and quickly put it on the bleed nipple. Crack the nipple off a bit and pump slowly and smoothly, doesn’t take much.
Post #793079 15th Sep 2019 1:17am
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 3064
United Kingdom 
After you have bled the clutch, wedge the pedal down overnight with a piece of wood.
It will be fine after that.

I have to do this every time l bleed the clutch on my Defender TD5

I once spent literally hours trying to get a good pedal, but always had the 20% free play and biting point right at the bottom of the travel.
Post #793209 15th Sep 2019 8:11pm
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Bobbyg



Member Since: 05 Jan 2017
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 26
England 1987 Defender 90 2.5 n/a Diesel PU Orkney Grey
Hi thanks for the reply i
have tried the oil can method ,I will give locked down peddle method a go .
Thanks Bob
Post #793213 15th Sep 2019 8:23pm
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benniferj



Member Since: 20 Oct 2016
Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 361
United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Oslo Blue
Looking forward to enjoying these hints and tips as I've just picked up the LOF slave cylinder that's meant to seriously lighten a TD5 clutch feel. Can confirm the wood block, wedging the clutch down all night has helped on a 200tdi before.
Post #793502 17th Sep 2019 9:08am
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