 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Developing transmission rumble and vibration |
 
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138   
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Ok do you know what physicaly changes between your hybrid turbo and stock one?
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8th Dec 2016 10:23am |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171  
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Im not sure if the compressor is larger or just a different profile.
Its got a higher flow rate. Trade off is a little more lag. If you dont drive like a hooligan I don't think it's worth the money. I'm still convinced my issues were due to restricted flow upstream of the airbox. Give me a few minutes and Ill brave the rain for pictures. |
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8th Dec 2016 10:29am |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
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Here are some pictures of the induction system.
I made a plate and bolted/sealed it to the safari snorkel. I had to remove some extra material from the wing to get it to clear the bolt heads. the rest I guess is self explanatory. It was a bit of a rush job, so is pretty heavy duty, but it works.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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8th Dec 2016 11:37am |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138
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Hi!
That's a very nice job! I'm loving it! Unfortunately I m afraid to don't be well equipped to make the same job. 
I need to find someone here to make this pipe and parts... How do you think that this shorter induction can physicaly have an effect on vibrations? Best regards |
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8th Dec 2016 8:47pm |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
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It is only a theory I had. As discussed I changed so much on my 110 that I cannot reliably identify the cause.
The problem only became apparent after the the new turbo, intercooler and remap were fitted. I found it very strange that the vibration I was experiencing increased in magnitude based on time spent at a specific RPM when at WOT. (We may not be talking about the same thing, but my vibrations were SIGNIFICANT. So much so I reduced the throttle because I thought something was going to break.) Typically in my experience driveline vibration doesn't increase like that. It could possibly have been the engine mounts, but these looked fine upon removal. I changed them anyway just in case. If you look at the intake design its very compromised and restrictive. I figured that when fully loaded it would struggle to get enough air, and partially suck the connection between the airbox and turbo closed. Power would reduce and it would open up again. You should be able to check this by removing the lid from the airbox so air is still drawn past the MAF sensor but avoids the rest of the system. Clearly running with no air filter inst a good idea, but a short test drive should do no harm. It seems you have eliminated all the "Usual suspects" for vibrations/shuddering. Try towing or putting a lot of weight in the 110 and find a place where it will reliably vibrate. Once you know that, you can try unclipping the airbox etc. Something I want to point out... If its RPM specific I think it points to a fault before the gearbox in terms of drive not after. The vibrations I had only became apparent in higher gears because transition through the RPM range took longer and as such they could "build up". HTH Cetane |
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8th Dec 2016 9:09pm |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138
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Thanks for explanation.
In my case it's a bit different. Vibrations appears between 1300 and 1900rpm when climbing a hill but disapears when it goes over 2000rpm. What you say is interesting. In my case vibrations were coming for the first time after I installed the bigger intercooler and remap, so I will try a trip with stock map just to see if it changes anything. My 110 is always loaded, and I can create the vibration everytime I m climbing a hill at low rpm. I'm a bit afraid about it but I will try a short trip with airbox removed to see if it changes something. Where did you make pipes for your custom induction system? regards |
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8th Dec 2016 9:51pm |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
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http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic20989.html
Was using Google and it brought me back here. Its a thread about silicone hoses that replace the one I'm talking about. Interesting to read the 7th post!
That was from 2013 Seems my idea might not be so crazy! |
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8th Dec 2016 9:52pm |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
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For such a short time I wouldn't worry about no filter. But it's your car and understand your reluctance. Maybe other members have an opinion? The intake is just 3inch dia stainless exhaust. You can buy it pre-bent and then just cut and weld to make it fit. A word of caution. My car has no ABS unit. If yours has, then you may have less room for the pipe. |
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8th Dec 2016 9:56pm |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138
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Hi!
I would like to order this induction hose but I didn't find it on BAS webiste shop. And that's bad point for me because my 110 has ABS Regards |
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9th Dec 2016 7:08am |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
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It seems no longer available.
However I found this yesterday.... https://roosemotorsport.co.uk/land-rover-d...00940.html Thinking out loud I wonder if there's a chance its too rigid with a silicone hose? I guess it depends on how much the engine moves on its mounts relative to the airbox. Let me know if you have any success fixing the issue. |
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9th Dec 2016 8:17am |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138
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If try to make the same induction system than yours do you think that silicon hose is not necessary?
regards |
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9th Dec 2016 11:13am |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
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I dont know.
I was always going to replace the standard system because it was very hard to seal against water ingress, and it was also very restrictive. It's now water tight and air flows well. I replaced my hose because it cost about £35 from Land Rover. I suggest you try with the top of the airbox disconnected re positioned so its able to draw fresh air. If there's no change and you still get vibrations then its academic. It points to the fault being elsewhere. I'd perhaps look at changing the gearbox and engine mounts next to eliminate them as a possibility. Cheers |
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9th Dec 2016 11:50am |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138
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Hi!
I just tried a short trip with airbox deconnected and vibrations doesn't disapear. After that I tried another thing and I think I found the reason of my vibrations. I tried to put back my stock map and vibrations disapears! So I tried other "remaped" maps. More torque is the map more vibrations are present. So now I ask a question myself. Are these vibrations only a physical problem amplified with more torque and powerfull map and is this problem always here but less present with stock map, or is it a problem of remap and heavy loaded 110. I don't know. I cannot believe I'm the only guy to running a 3000kg 110 evreyday with a stage 2 remap +bigger intercooler. Now the question is: If these vibrations are coming from the remap, are they dangerous for my griveline or I can run it without any problems? Best regards |
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9th Dec 2016 6:45pm |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
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Just to be clear you disconnected the airbox top and there was no vibration?
That fits the theory. I think the remap means it needs more air. The standard map doesn't put the induction system under as much strain. Next I'd try replacing the hose. £35ish from Land Rover. |
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9th Dec 2016 7:17pm |
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