 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Developing transmission rumble and vibration |
 
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298   
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do you get this noise and rumble if out of gear / coasting?
if not I suspect the props aren't the problem. have you considered it might be the clutch / friction plate and springs not absorbing shocks from the engine output? |
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30th Nov 2016 8:34am |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138  
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Hi!
The clutch is new. I just changed it. So it shouldn'be the problem. And it's realy a vibration of the driveline more that a rumble. Best regards |
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30th Nov 2016 9:49am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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30th Nov 2016 11:11am |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138
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Hi!
I just replaced the front and rear propshaft with GWYN LEWIS. They are awsome stuff, but the vibrations are still here. So I will try to find the solution in another way. I will try to correct the angle of the rear diff nose adding some spacers on my rear kranken radius arm. Best regards |
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4th Dec 2016 9:31pm |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138
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Hi!
Just tried to correct the angle of my rear diff noise putting some shims to my rear radius arms. Unfortunately no difference. Vibrations are still here I'm a bit lost.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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6th Dec 2016 9:59pm |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171  
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Hi Okan.
I've only skim read your original post about vibrations between 1700-2000rpm up a hill. So apologies if this has been covered. I had terrible vibrations under the same conditions. So much so I thought the engine was going to climb out of the engine bay. My car was remapped but otherwise driveline was std. Hopefully Pete won't mind me re posting this from a private message.
Recently I decided I was going to install air locking diffs and replace the noisy clutch. This turned into a complete driveline rebuild from the spigot bearing to tyres. My vibration has gone now so it is curable, but I've changed too much to definitively identify the cause. I also changed all the engine mounts and gearbox mounts as a matter of course. One thing I did notice was that the hose between the airbox and turbo compressor wasn't sealing correctly and I have a sneaky suspicion that it had something to do with it. I only found that fault as I was replacing it anyway because I thought the original might be partially collapsing under full load then opening up causing shaking. Perhaps this is of some help. You seem to have done everything else! Good luck Cetane Edited for clarity... The thread Pete refers to is not this one. |
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7th Dec 2016 10:24am |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138
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Hi Cetane!
Thanks for your interesting reply. about the hose between the airbox and turbo,mine looks fine but I will check it again properly. About the rest, my 110 is remaped too and always heavy loaded around 3000kgs and first time vibrations appear was when I install the bigger intercooler from Alive with stage 2 remap. It's interesting what you say maybe it's nothing to do with the driveline and only the combination of big load and more torque. I will try do get back my stock map to see if it does change anything. I ll let you know. About your driveline,what did you exactly changed before fixing your vibrations problem. About mine, transfert box is new from ashcroft because stock one failed two month ago. Clutch is new too and propshaft rear and front were just replaced with Gwyn Lewis. bearings were chcked when I changed disc brakes and they were fine. Tyres are like one year but I will install winter tires next week and see if I feel a difference. Sometime mud tyres are hard to balance and it can make a difference. The only thing is not new on my 110 are MT82 gearbox and front and rear diff. Rear half shaft were replaced during brake disc change. Front halfshaft was fine. Thanks for your help Best regards |
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7th Dec 2016 6:12pm |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
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The vibrations built up when at WOT and when RPM/speed was relatively constant.
If I accelerated then the system moved away from the resonant frequency and the vibes subsided. Most obvious when towing up a long hill. Changes to the 110 all happened at once. (I've left out items that cant impact on the vibrations) This included 2x Ashcroft air locking diffs. Replaced output seals on Tx box (leaking) Replaced MT82 output with a Ashcroft mod (preemptive) All UJ's were replaced (To eliminate them as a possibility) All engine/Gearbox mounts replaced (To eliminate them as a possibility) All wheel bearings replace (Despite only 36k some had blued) All discs/pads replaced (Ready for a change) All dampers/springs changed (Changed to 7seater CSW Spec from HT Spec) All bushes replaced (Silly not to) TX box and both diffs now run Redline heavy duty shock proof oil. MT82 box now runs Redline MT90 gear oil. Because I half suspected the induction system was at fault.... Replaced the pipe from the airbox to the turbo Removed the innards from the airbox to reduce restriction Made a custom 3" dia stainless pipe from the snorkel to the airbox to reduce restriction and sealed the entire system against water. I guess a simple way to eliminate the induction system would be to unclip the airbox lid so unfiltered air can be drawn in and the MAF sensor still meters the charge. If you cable tie it in a different position and then do a test drive up a problem hill it might highlight if the pipe is getting sucked closed. Changing gearbox mounts is a piece of cake. Engine mounts can be tricky and involved a lot of ratchet extensions and wobble bars. Have you changed the clutch recently? If so what did you put in? I had a few issues with two. One in particular felt as though there were no springs in it and below 2000rpm felt like the engine had been replaced by an impact gun. Cetane |
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7th Dec 2016 10:17pm |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138
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Hi Cetane!
That makes many possibilities! First what is WOT? About my clutch it's new. I replaced it at the same time we replaced the ashcroft new transfert box and MT82 ashcroft output shaft. The clutch kit is a standard AP like used by LR in puma engines. I bought it on ashcroft wesite with the tbox and output shaft. About replacing engine/gearbox mounts it seems like a good idea. Do you have some pictures of all mounts you replaced? About your induction system, do you have pictures of your custom made and which shnorkel do you have? I have a Safari. Best regards |
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8th Dec 2016 5:39am |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
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Morning
Yes I've done a lot of work to thew 110 over the past few months. WOT = Wide Open Throttle. Driving with your right foot on the floor. Engine mounts http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1235/674/2409/185 Labeled as 1 Gearbox mounts http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1235/674/2409/188 Triangular parts labeled as 2 in the top picture and 1 in the bottom picture. I have a safari snorkel also. It's still dark and typically for the Northwest of England its raining hard. I'll try and get pictures soon. |
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8th Dec 2016 7:52am |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
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I forgot to ask.
Do you have a standard or hybrid turbo? I'm curious Cheers |
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8th Dec 2016 7:59am |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138
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Hi!
Thanks. I ll try to replace the engine and gearbox supports. Is it a pain to make it by myself? So as my tbox clutch, mt82 output shaft and propshaft are new I think that the only possibility are in differential front and rear,engine and gearbox support and maybe induction system. Brake disc and pads are 15000km only About the turbo, it was whistling so I removed it to change to check it. It's fine. Fan are moving smothly and no play in the axle. So I well cleaned it and I put it back in place with new exhaust gasket from turbo to manifold. But whisling is allready here. Maybe a leaks from another part like manifold or directly between turbo decat pipe. I was tinking that should better to try to add sealing mastic for exhaust or something like that to see if the whistling disapears. I asked to Alive when I ordered new silicon turbo hoses why they doesn't retail anymore hybrid turbo for 2.4 puma and only for 2.2. They answer me that maximum capacity was reached with stock turbo so hybrid turbo was not necesary anymore. So decided to keep my stock turbo for the moment because it's still in good condition. Why are you asking about hybrid turbo? Best regard |
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8th Dec 2016 8:27am |
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| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
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I only ask because mine has one.
Was looking for similarities. |
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8th Dec 2016 8:33am |
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| Okan Member Since: 17 Oct 2016 Location: Geneva Posts: 138
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Did you notice a difference when you installed the hybrid turbo? Where did you buy it?
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8th Dec 2016 8:36am |
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