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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013 ![]() ![]() |
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22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() ![]() 1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I don't think he likes em getting mucky Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 ![]() ![]() |
You'll never get rid of the Salisbury silt ...
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013 ![]() ![]() |
Still got it in my ears from Foggies driving Steve
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22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I'm still struggling to get whatever this crap is from the Billing off road course off. I guess I will have to keep at it. It seems to stick to the waxoyl underneath, and needs a good scrub to get it off the bodywork. 2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013 ![]() ![]() |
Near impossible to get it out of all the nooks and crannies a real PITA job. I regularly spend a whole day on and off flushing, hoovering when dry with small long extensions, poking around with wires, jet washing etc etc to get it all out as it can rot through a box section in 5-8 years even if previously treated with Waxoyl.
It will all be in those oval cut outs in the rear wheel arches, in the tub supports, rear crossmember off course and on top of it from the inside very tricky to get all that out, take out the plugs from underneath near the end of the rear seat box and try and get it out bottom of A & B post... The list goes on... Including the box section crossmembers high up under the main body, will never be able to get it all out from there... ![]() You have to get it all out as you don,t want to seal damp mud in when it comes time to re apply cavity wax... As yours is a keeper once cleaned and waxed I would use an old Series hack for playing in or borrow someone else's Defender that they don,t care about. 10 mins of playing in the mud can never be really undone. |
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mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5068 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Drive it through a river and have done with it
![]() You could wast your life cleaning out the inner parts of the chassis - never do it and it get written off 10 days later!! I do laugh though as the farm hacks i see, that would be luck to have a day clean, get abused for years and are fine. Whatever you do, eventually it will need to be repaired (this comes from someone who treated his from new and has treated his others from new and kept them going for 16yrs...with full off roading! Mike |
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22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Got the truck back today, has been with Guy Salmon Stratford all week for (another) new rad panel. Can't complain though, paintwork looks good and they did a thorough wash and valet on the thing, plus put loads of that black polish stuff all over the tyres for some reason...plus I had a free coke.
![]() 1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013 ![]() ![]() |
Coke... Now that would strip clean the inside of your chassis
![]() Good to see you have still got all your Series ![]() |
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22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Right, looks like this has come back to bite me in the arse! I noticed only the other day that my door and bodywork are fouling and both are being worn away! Eventually there is going to be serious corrosion here. There is no slop in the door, so it looks like when it was put back together the door closing was not checked. I am really unsure how to proceed with this, I think the work was done via Grange Barnet, but I am not sure who to contact, I know the guy who was running things back then has since moved on. Any suggestions anyone, I can't leave it like this but the cost will be £££ to get this fixed, at the very least it needs a new capping. My current dealership I use locally have told me to go back to whoever did the work before... See wear on outer edge of door, quite hard to see but it is there. ![]() Click image to enlarge Wear/damage on capping. ![]() Click image to enlarge :( Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated ![]() 1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013 ![]() ![]() |
Doesn,t seem to be a huge problem if the door just needs re adjusting at the hinges?! Or as they do in the factory use a hammer handle to bend the door so it fits
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22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I imagine the adjustment will only be a matter of moments, I am more concerned about damage and corrosion to the bodywork and door. The paint has been worn off right down to bare metal. Both parts are steel... 2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013 ![]() ![]() |
No problem just rub back, apply acid convertor, undercoat and touch up paint then laquer. LR will sell you the Keswick green touch up paint and Laquer. Kurust etc for the acid convert and undercoat, shouldn,t show too much
![]() Last edited by Zagato on 2nd Sep 2016 4:40pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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