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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8026

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I woods go for a TDs with wire rope. Cheaper and less current draw and they take being sat around not being used a bit better.

If looking to keep weight down then tirfor its lighter works front, back and sides to.

Synthetic rope is much lighter to to save weight and smaller fair lead. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #512241 8th Mar 2016 9:40pm
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AJC



Member Since: 30 Nov 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1362

United Kingdom 
Why would you want to use a tirfor when you can have something with a electric motor that's easier & quicker.

I use tirfors at work and they're big heavy cumbersome things!
Post #512250 8th Mar 2016 10:09pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17378

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Worth remembering that for self-recovery usually the easiest way out is back the way you came, i.e., backwards. Front mounted winches are not good for this.

Tirfors score on almost every point except speed. They're small, light, portable, inexpensive, can pull in any direction, will work indefinitely without the engine running, will work underwater and any way up, and are almost infinitely versatile. However they're slow and require physical effort, and people today are always in a hurry and looking for the effortless solution.

An 800kg Tirfor with a snatch block will do anything a 4000kg vehicle winch will do, just slower (remember as a lifting device it has a 5:1 safety factor, unlike a vehicle winch).
Post #512262 8th Mar 2016 10:34pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
AJC wrote:
Why would you want to use a tirfor when you can have something with a electric motor that's easier & quicker.


Easier & quicker is not really what it's about for me when either pottering along a green lane when speed can be measured as less than 1 mile in the hour; or at pay & play sites where you are effectively going round in circles all day!

AJC wrote:
I use tirfors at work and they're big heavy cumbersome things!


What ones are you using? It actually amazes me how little effort is sometimes required on the handle to get everything moving again.
Post #512381 9th Mar 2016 10:46am
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Dave T



Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 490

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Cairns Blue
Goodwinch, mine is very well used, even pulling D3 s out the mud, it has also been well submerged and is still going strong. Compared to cheaper winches, it is considerably faster under load.

You could save for another month or two and upgrade to synthetic at the time. David also does good deals at shows, or phone and ask for show price. Thumbs Up Whistle Whistle 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi
Post #513570 12th Mar 2016 3:23pm
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Boyd



Member Since: 11 May 2014
Location: Le Saint
Posts: 172

France 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Zambezi Silver
Goodwinch although now more in the premium league gets my vote too for the cusimter service alone they are worth the money. At the budget end of the spectrum winchmax and the winch-it yeti are probably the best budget winches and are perfectly fine for 90% of people and the other 10% unless competitors are just impatient Whistle

The cost of a new cheap winch can often be cheaper than buying a half decent make second hand one and it's easy to spend the same again replacing brush packs, solenoids etc so unless you need the speed of an 8724 or similar I wouldn't touch most second hand stuff.

If it's something that's going to live under a cover and only get used in the very occasional emergency; then wire rope will last probably last longer.. however if you can stomach the additional £100 then Dyneema is a no brainer, just don't buy cheap look a like stuff. 2003 Zambezi Silver TD5 110 XS SW overland prepped....
2004 Santorini Black TD5 110 XS SW left hooker for sale!
2004 Alpine White TD5 110 left hooker (work in progress)
Post #513599 12th Mar 2016 4:41pm
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Boyd



Member Since: 11 May 2014
Location: Le Saint
Posts: 172

France 2003 Defender 110 Td5 SW Zambezi Silver
p.s. Just don't buy a britpart winch Big Cry 2003 Zambezi Silver TD5 110 XS SW overland prepped....
2004 Santorini Black TD5 110 XS SW left hooker for sale!
2004 Alpine White TD5 110 left hooker (work in progress)
Post #513600 12th Mar 2016 4:41pm
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Active Planner



Member Since: 12 Mar 2016
Location: Savona
Posts: 8

Italy 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
I have a warn 9.5t - it was already on when I bought the truck at 1 year old. Only used it a couple of times - to pull a caravan up a steep track! Pulls really well. Couple of issues - dont know if normal as its the only winch I have ever used, but start/stop is not immediate - there is about a 1 foot run on so you have to be careful if pulling anything into a tight spot to allow for this. Also, I have the rollers fairlead which dont really work - the steel cable just wore a groove into the roller, so am thinking of getting the hawse fairlead which looks much better in my opinion, and no moving parts!

Click image to enlarge
Post #513612 12th Mar 2016 5:13pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
My Warn 9.5ti behaves like that too.
Wouldn't have bought it but it came free with the Defender.
Post #513638 12th Mar 2016 6:35pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Scoobeenut wrote:
I bought the Dyneema rope at the same time as the winch but it is expensive, you can start off with the wire rope then upgrade later


Interesting that the military have synthetic rope fitted to the Jackal and Coyote fleet and had issues - "We have quite a high number of instances with the winch rope breaking, Units need to protect the winch rope as it has a tendency to break when it is dirty, GEMS suggestions are welcome."
Post #513653 12th Mar 2016 7:09pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8026

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
use of it i would argue esp with Mil types. synthetic does need to be kept clean Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #514092 14th Mar 2016 9:23am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Totally agree - but how many people treat it as a maintenance issue and regularly wash it or buy it, thinking they have the best money can buy, leave it on the front of the vehicle all year round and then wonder why it fails when they try to use it once in a blue moon.
Post #514124 14th Mar 2016 10:35am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Active Planner wrote:
Also, I have the rollers fairlead which dont really work - the steel cable just wore a groove into the roller, so am thinking of getting the hawse fairlead which looks much better in my opinion, and no moving parts!


I wouldn't recommend that.

Before swapping, I'd check them out first.

You either have a very cheap set fitted and the end bearings are excessively worn, seized or you are running too wide a fleet angle and side loading the runners excessively. Your damage is being caused by the rollers not rolling, fix this and they will be fine.

With regard to hawse fairleads, I've seen a few with nicks and wear on the edges which don't work well with wire ropes:

Click image to enlarge
Post #514130 14th Mar 2016 10:48am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17378

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Supacat wrote:
Totally agree - but how many people treat it as a maintenance issue and regularly wash it or buy it, thinking they have the best money can buy, leave it on the front of the vehicle all year round and then wonder why it fails when they try to use it once in a blue moon.


Like I said above, steel has many things going for it.
Post #514139 14th Mar 2016 10:55am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8026

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Supacat wrote:
Active Planner wrote:
Also, I have the rollers fairlead which dont really work - the steel cable just wore a groove into the roller, so am thinking of getting the hawse fairlead which looks much better in my opinion, and no moving parts!


I wouldn't recommend that.

Before swapping, I'd check them out first.

You either have a very cheap set fitted and the end bearings are excessively worn, seized or you are running too wide a fleet angle and side loading the runners excessively. Your damage is being caused by the rollers not rolling, fix this and they will be fine.

With regard to hawse fairleads, I've seen a few with nicks and wear on the edges which don't work well with wire ropes:

Click image to enlarge


^^^^ exactly what he said, working rollers are far better than a hawse for steel ropes Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #514206 14th Mar 2016 2:04pm
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