 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > cross member bolts easy to swap? |
 
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750  
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^ just ordered one
ooh and yes I think your right captive... I could not think of the name, Bottle of wine down ooops many thanks |
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13th Feb 2016 7:32pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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A screwdriver lol
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13th Feb 2016 7:54pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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^ I know
It was hard work and thought it was going to snap !! live an learn I did check my sockets but no torx ones  so gave up |
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13th Feb 2016 8:10pm |
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| Birdy Member Since: 07 Oct 2011 Location: Côte d'Azur Posts: 865  
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"... so gave up"
That's the spirit! Now all you have to do is learn to give up before you even begin! My 2011 sits on the drive, has had nothing done to it and never will - other than scheduled servicing, of course - it'll become rusty and corroded in ten or twelve years, at which time I might or might not get some welding done to pass the MOT and/or do something about the cosmetics. Until then I'll have had ten or twelve years of using it, not worrying about leaks, squeaks, rattles or whether enough stainless steel and Nakatenga bling will turn it into a silk purse. Peter |
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14th Feb 2016 10:42am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2102 
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You did well to get the first lot out without a socket drive, so you're doing ok 
As others have said, use the time waiting for the new torx bit to arrive to give the bolts a good soaking with penetrating oil. You can get to the rear of 4 of them I recall. Yes they are 'captive' via nuts welded to a piece of angle iron on the rear cross member. As a self-confessed Anorak, I took the opportunity to run an M8 tap through the holes when I'd got them out. I then coated the threads of the captive nut with copper grease. A spot of Duralac near the head (where the stainless touches the aluminium) is something I do, however I also use a very discreet M8 nylon washer behind the new stainless bolt head (it can withstand the torque setting). A good coat of Dinitrol on the captive nuts and new bolts from underneath the wheel arch finishes the job. There is a product called Tef Gel that supposedly stops the stainless on stainless cold welding (galling) and also prevents the stainless on aluminium galvanic corrosion. If you plan to replace a lot of the fixings with stainless, and there are mixed views regarding that, then it's worth investing in something to address the galling and the corrosion.
I did say I was an Anorak! 
My rear cross member and fixings look brand new - but the rest of the Landy looks crap
Still, the pointless fettling it keeps me out of trouble |
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14th Feb 2016 11:41am |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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^ Many thanks
I'm more than happy tinkering with it and these sort of mods are cheap and I like it looking nice. I've used copper grease on the ones I re fitted and also a nylon washer as well as the actual washer so hopefully I've done something right. I hope when the torx socket arrives it makes the others easier to do. Right tool for the job and all that |
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15th Feb 2016 8:04pm |
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| Avelingporter Member Since: 25 Jan 2016 Location: Southampton Posts: 405 
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I am involved in the marine world where there a lot of stainless fixings. Tef gel is a must. Will be using it on the stainless I got from Brendan at the Peterborough show. It's just taken this long as my delivery was put back. It's nearly here now!!
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15th Feb 2016 9:13pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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So my torx socket arrived and made the job much easier, I was actually surprised how easy they were to remove
 Took them out polished the area round them, squirted copper grease in the hole after cleaning them out, then refitted new bolts with grease and a washer (nylon) against the bodywork.
Nice easy 'mod' looks better imho although this picture probably hard to tell
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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16th Feb 2016 7:37pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 738  
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Well done
another job jobbed |
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16th Feb 2016 7:55pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2102
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Looking good |
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16th Feb 2016 9:39pm |
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| peanutbob Member Since: 12 Feb 2009 Location: UK Posts: 291
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Resurrecting this thread…I’ve just replaced the six inner bolts which were easy enough. Do the outer bolts - 2 on each side have a nyloc nut on each end as the kit I purchased came with 10 bolts and 4 nuts? If so, that might be less easy to locate and replace the existing nuts if there are any.
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4th Nov 2023 9:26am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2102
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I don’t recall them having nuts but I could be wrong - as it’s quite a while ago.
I thought that they are all fixed into an angle iron bracket which is fixed to the top of the crossmember and all 10 went into captive nuts? You should be able to see if you remove the so-called mud guard under wheel arch? |
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4th Nov 2023 9:32am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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They shouldn't have nuts on. They screw into fixed threads. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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4th Nov 2023 9:35am |
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| peanutbob Member Since: 12 Feb 2009 Location: UK Posts: 291
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Ok, many thanks all.
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4th Nov 2023 9:47am |
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