 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > cross member bolts easy to swap? |
 
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142  
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Yes, peice of cake.
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31st Jan 2016 10:26pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763 
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Very easy although I personally wouldn't. Stainless will react more (and thus corrode) the aluminium tub more readily.
I would stick with some decent BZP bolts and either paint over them, or keep them in good condition with semi-regular use of ACF-50 or similar. If you do decide to go down the stainless route, not that standard grade stainless bolts shouldn't be used for structural bits, I believe A4-80 is equivalent to an 8.8 bolts. I tend to over-engineer, but I have used at least BZP 8.8 on all my body tabs, and then 10.9 on all my towing equipment. Whatever you go for, give everything a generous glob of anti seize paste such as duralac. This is even more important for stainless! |
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1st Feb 2016 12:02am |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8581
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The Nakatanenga bolt kits we supply come with lubricant/anti seize paste as standard
The bolts will be A2-70 these are corrosion resistant with a minimum tensile stress of 700 N/mm2. A4 is corrosion resistant in a more chemically harsh regime I.e. Marine grade then A2 which is corrosion resistant under fresh water regime. Yes stainless steel is wider apart from aluminium then mild steel and aluminium in the galvanic tables. Have never looked at where zinc is in these tables in comparison to aluminium. However those tables will not take not consideration the effect of paint etc. IF, and I repeat IF you are seriously worried about corrosion then maybe using a Defender in its natural environment is not for you. There are lots of mud traps on the chassis, which can collect road salt etc which will cause corrosion. The doors are aluminium on a steel frame, has all the steel swarf been clean out? Foam rubber used in the door structure also cause corrosion issues. Plastic washers can be used under the stainless washer if so desired. For the rear cross member a good coat of paint and the inside given a good coating of waxoyl/dinitrol etc would be more important as it has lots of mud catching crevices. Brendan |
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1st Feb 2016 2:11am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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Stacey, those rear crossmember bolts are the easiest of all bolts to swap.
As to anti corrosion paste, think worth to read the below and then decide what to use.
Eric http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic38216....mild+steel You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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1st Feb 2016 2:53am |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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Hi Brendan
do you have a link for the kit I need just to do the cross member? I on;y found these which looks like it would cover the complete car... 
http://www.4x4overlander.com/product/nakat...ast-110ht/ Thanks |
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1st Feb 2016 9:33am |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8581
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Please email info@4x4overlander.com with your exact requirements.
We do not have a rear cross member kit as such but I have various loose bolts on our shelves so I will see what I can do. No promises however Brendan |
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1st Feb 2016 10:55pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
Try these stacey good product good company! http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epage...ucts/1028A good source of defender Bits and Pieces! |
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1st Feb 2016 11:01pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763
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True. They rust and corrode, always have done, always will do. I just prefer to do the things within my power to make the process as slow as possible! Same reason I keep it reasonably clean and the chassis will be dinitrolled come summer. I stand by using only 10.9 Bolts on the structural/towing bits though! |
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2nd Feb 2016 12:54am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2102 
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Go for it Stacey007
Plenty of stainless steel bolts available via suppliers already referenced above and on eBay. Again as mentioned, I've used Duralac and plastic washers. Overkill but I'm an Anorak 
Costs very little but makes a difference to me anyway
Might be worth getting some penetrating oil on them before you get stuck in. You can get to the threads on some of them from underneath. Best of luck. |
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2nd Feb 2016 11:57pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20371
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I've got the Nak SS kit from Brendan.
It's excellent.
Also agree on the 10.9 on towing bolts etc, they are easily swapped anyway. Just stick to standard and not SS for them. |
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3rd Feb 2016 12:17am |
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| CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1861
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Those on mine are 'proper' bolts and though the outside four are quite tidy even after 23 years the midde 6 (I think it is) are quite rusty) and I was planning to change for stainless, but it seems to me all those I can see for sale are torxs or allen heads. Now I'm not a rivet counter and my 90 is far from perfect but I'm just wondering what's best?
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11th Feb 2016 7:33pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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Just get some a2-80 bolts of the right size (take one out and measure.) From Westfield fasteners or similar. You can choose whichever head you wish. Duralac or similar available from eBay.
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11th Feb 2016 8:17pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8581
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Duralac is a good anti corrosion paste but is not an anti seize paste which is useful for stainless nuts and bolts.
Brendan |
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11th Feb 2016 9:17pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3750
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Sorry
couple of questions about these... 1) How do you undo them? I managed 2 with a screwdriver and torx bit but they are so tight I have nothing more job on... 2) The two I managed to remove don't appear to have a nut they just tighten up to the threaded panel? so help please what do you use to undo them and do they have a bolt? on a puma Defender. Thanks |
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13th Feb 2016 7:03pm |
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