 | Home > Technical > central locking - grrrhh ! |
 
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298   
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Don't know for sure yet. Central locking to rear o/s door has stopped working again and assume it's the wiring again....at same time I found trailer brake light isn't working so assumed it was socket wiring again but looks like it's nothing more than a blown bulb but won't know till I get caravan back again.
Rumbling etc is getting worse so suspect front diff is shot  |
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18th Jun 2014 5:37pm |
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| Oscar Romeo Member Since: 16 Apr 2014 Location: South Yorks, the pinnacle of all human achievement Posts: 121 
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Does it lock after its been manually unlocked?
If it were mine, i would have the door card off, check for bad connections to the motor. If this didn't produce anything i'd remove the loom out of the door back to the b pillar. Then examine for damage and test continuity of each wire. If this still didn't yield any results i would be inclined to see if voltage is present at the motor by using the test light on my voltage probe. The fact it doesn't work at all makes it so much easier to find. Let us know how you go on? |
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18th Jun 2014 5:59pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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As you've suggested it should be simple to find / resolve....find the time might not be so easy.
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18th Jun 2014 6:12pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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on a 2011 defender you've had 2 of the aux socket sockets in the rear speaker panel corrode and break off ?? was the copper wire green and corroded ? |
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18th Jun 2014 7:07pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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Yes like a load of flux was left on to make it corrode.
Never got an explanation from LR for that? |
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18th Jun 2014 7:29pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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thats terrible on a 2011 defender , I would get some battery terminal spray and give the socket a spray to stop any corrosion again
or cut wire right back to find bright copper then use that part as once wire has corroded ( gone green ) you're never get a good cornection or solder joint , normally wire will be black back up the wire from the corroded part on the end |
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18th Jun 2014 7:44pm |
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| Oscar Romeo Member Since: 16 Apr 2014 Location: South Yorks, the pinnacle of all human achievement Posts: 121
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Sorry mate i am even more confused, what is your issue and how can we help?
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18th Jun 2014 9:52pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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I think (hope) the issue is no more than simply the fix that was done 6 months ago by LR needs fixing again (hopefully its nothing more than a break in the cable from b pillar to door but I need to find the time to have a look.
will let you know once I have had the door card off etc. |
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19th Jun 2014 7:12am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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So door harness replaced and now working a treat again.
While I was at it put half a sheet of dynamat in the door  |
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10th Aug 2014 8:27pm |
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| Cuthbert Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: Up North Posts: 1535 |
Reading this makes me glad I just specified the 'olde worlde' wind up/down windows. Something else not to go wrong.
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10th Aug 2014 9:37pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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me too windy up ones........in the back at least where the children sit !
front ones have been faultless......  - what have I said / gone and done now.
so 3 more doors to do with the dynamat. will given em all a squirt of acf 50 and lubricants etc while I'm at it. |
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11th Aug 2014 9:00am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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Drivers door has been struggling to on/close to to central locking and has now stopped working.
What's th answer - please don't say oil in the key hole as i've done a shed load of that's and to no avail. Any other ideas? I'm guessing one of the pivots inside the door and is corroded / seized? |
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8th Jan 2016 5:36pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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update.
the solenoid has been disconnected from the locking mechanism but still goes woa woa woa and doesn't move. wiring or solenoid? I'm trying to get a new loom (just can't be ars'd with trying to repair the wiring - if that's what it is). do you reckon it's more likely a knackered solenoid than wiring? how much to replace the solenoid? many thanks. |
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11th Jan 2016 1:55pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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I replaced one second row solenoid that sounded to be going slow for ages, then it stopped all together but the new one works perfectly. Only trouble is, I can now hear how slow the opposite side second row one sounds so it looks like I'll be replacing that one too quite soon
I think the new solenoid was about £60 ish Ray My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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11th Jan 2016 2:42pm |
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