 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > How to engage low range |
 
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| oburrill Member Since: 09 Aug 2014 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 33   
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Land Rover "Under Control" training video is useful.
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6th Jan 2016 5:41am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8021  
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As taught by LRE, current teaching, by the book is:
engine running, foot on brake clutch in main box in any gear. T box to other range if tbox lever stops in neutral position, whilst keeping foot on brake slowly start to lift the clutch whilst simultaneously applying pressure to the tbox lever (in the direction of the range you wish to select) once lever starts to move to desired range clutch goes back in confirm range selection (as you can can partial gear engagement) by keep foot brake pressed, and applying pressure to lever to hold in the range and slowly lift clutch until vehicle wants to move. advantages are it will always work (unless mechanical problem is evident), vehicle doesnt need to move, its safe ref CDL - LRE teaching is engage it if you think there is the chance of loosing traction when assessing the ground ahead prior to driving the ground. bear in mind you only have one wheel drive guaranteed in a Def unless CDL is in. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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6th Jan 2016 7:27am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17369 
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Not particularly meaning to pick nits, but that will make nasty noises! Remember "clutch in" = engaged, "clutch out" = disengaged. This has been the definition of the terms since the invention of the motor car (actually since the invention of the first dog clutch which pre-dated the car by many years). It is however obvious from the context what you mean. |
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6th Jan 2016 10:43am |
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| discomog Member Since: 09 May 2015 Location: Notts/Lincs Border Posts: 2526 
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Blackwolf is technically correct so I guess for "Clutch in" read "Clutch pedal down" but as he says it's pretty obvious what was meant. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S Morgan Plus 8 |
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6th Jan 2016 11:03am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8021
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thanks for pointing out
 Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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6th Jan 2016 7:53pm |
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| Rattys Member Since: 02 Sep 2013 Location: Skipton Posts: 14 
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Cake, one other thing to practice and get comfortable with is disengaging the diff lock. I've had a Defender Tdci 2.2 that was a pig to disengage. As it alright but not ideal to be in low box on tarmac, you definitely do not want to have the diff lock engaged when there is grip such as tarmac. Find your self a gravel lane and practice swapping from high to low rather than on your drive, then when you are comfortable try engaging the diff lock and disengaging it as if it sticks you could be stuck as its not healthy to drive on tarmac with it engaged. If it wont disengage try reversing 6 feet and trying again, if this doesn't do it try reversing and putting some lock on the steering, it will come out just be patient,
I'm a big fan of Tom Sheppard but he writes with 100,000's of mile of experience or if you like practice. My own experience is that you get stuck for two reasons, lack of traction or you be come grounded, which is essentially the same thing. So you should switch to low box when you leave the tarmac and if the terrain looks very loose or muddy ie there is chance of wheel spin, put in the diff lock before you drive the section. As the guys say get in with a local club or go on one of the organised tours to start with, the guide and others on the tour will be great to chat too and you can find out how they tackled each section. When you feel more comfortable you can stay in high box etc. as i am sure some of the very experienced guys on here do because they've had plenty of practice. I in fact will be out practicing my skills this week end. 1954 86" - makes any green lane seem as long as the trans american high way 2015 110 Utility - will have to go and travel the trans american highway |
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7th Jan 2016 10:59am |
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| Cake Member Since: 10 Jun 2015 Location: Essex Posts: 277
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Thank you.
yes I need to practice and the land I shoot on is nothing special, just fields and small hills. I think my lack of experience and the torrential rain softening up already soft farm land is what finally caught me. I tried to put it in low range but I didn't know and out panic I did something similar to what's needed but obviously not quite. I tested that it worked on my driveway as I would say its never been used in low range. I tried locking the diff also to ensure that was free but I couldn't get it to move to the left so either im doing something wrong or its need freeing up. I will give it a test in the next couple of weeks and hopefully get through with no issues  |
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7th Jan 2016 1:10pm |
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| Jimmoore Member Since: 26 Jul 2015 Location: Scotland Posts: 161  
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The LR Experience is definitely a good place to start... as mentioned before they cover a lot of aspects of the Low and High Box as well as Diff Lock... and the Diff Lock unwind which I had to do after coming off the off-road route,
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7th Jan 2016 2:13pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8021
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why not? ideal for anything wanting low speed control. reversing a trailer for example. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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7th Jan 2016 8:31pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8021
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ref difflock and getting rid of wind up.
in essence there was too much traction to front and rear axles on the last few turns made. you have made front and rear axles rotate the same amount with the middle diff locked. the vehicle now has wind up between the front and rear axles as the rear axle cut the corners slightly and needed to travel a shorter distance than the front axle but couldn't moving the diff lock lever to the RH side will inevitably leave the diff lock light on and hence engaged. now try reversing lock to lock which means the rear axle is now the front axle which is now travelling over a greater arc compared to the front axle which is now the rear axle (as your going backwards) hopefully the two will equalise and the diff lock will unlock. OR alternative method which is what i always use. You have some wind up. Diff lock lever to the RHS to allow the middle diff lock to unlock (but it hasnt yet) Hand brake on (lock rear prop) in reverse (assuming diff lock wind up was created by fwd movement which is 99% of the time) slowly lift the clutch until its just starting to engage. by doing this front prop is rotated the opposite was to which wind up occurred, rear prop is stationary so system will equalise. advantage - you dont have to move the vehicle. Hope this helps as before and mentioned by others, all part of LRE 1.2 day Def and Level1 courses and Level2 refresher elements. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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7th Jan 2016 8:39pm |
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