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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471   
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Agreed, I've Waxoyled enough vehicles to know that some dripping is to be expected.
I'm interested to know what some o these commercial rustproofing places do in terms of pre cleaning and then how much time they allow for drying off before application of the wax. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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7th Nov 2010 3:18pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Phone 'em up and ask them!!!  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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7th Nov 2010 6:08pm |
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| CarlW Member Since: 21 Sep 2010 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 53  
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Had mine done by Rustmaster in Knutsford Checshire about 3 weeks ago. It doesn't feel like a wax on the underside, more like a black 'tar' like substance which was nearly touch dry as I left there premises and a fine mist they spray into the cavaties - No dripping at all. Ther was a little overspray on parts of the body and side steps but a little turps and polish on the paint surfacs=es and it was fine MY11 110 XS Station Wagon in Stornoway
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7th Nov 2010 6:45pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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Thats how it should be Carl. It shouldnt be dripping at all, if it is something is wrong with the application - unless you do it when the weather is very hot, in which case it can drip.
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8th Nov 2010 8:51am |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5038 
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I only ever do mine/friends in the summer when hot - you just cant get (even with the atomising spray) the same coverage in the winter + its always damp after a certain point. If they do a good job 3 types should be used - an underbody seal on the outside sections, a waxoyl for the internal caverties and a high impact with a seal on the high impact areas. Mike |
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8th Nov 2010 10:56am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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I'd rather have the info from folks who have seen / had it done recently  Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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8th Nov 2010 12:29pm |
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| DefenderOfTheEarth Member Since: 09 Nov 2010 Location: Cornwall, UK Posts: 1304 
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Can anyone recommend somewhere in Cornwall for Waxoyling? Plan to get it done if/when it dries out in the Spring (we keep getting early Summers down here!). Have a powerful jetwash so can clean it myself if needed. Defender 110XS SW gone... now VW California 180 4 Motion.
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10th Nov 2010 12:21pm |
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| eutek Member Since: 03 Mar 2009 Location: High Wycombe Posts: 586
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That was exactly my latest experience with the Defender when I brought it to the Hatfield location. No dripping. |
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10th Nov 2010 3:21pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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do it yourself...
when I was in the UK, I visited my local haulage depot, there was a kind old chap with a steam cleaner, he cleaned the whole truck for me, I then took it for a run to dry it off. left it for a couple of days in the summer to dry out, put an air hose into the front jacking points etc. I bought some spray waxoyl stuff and some 3m stuff, bought a compressor and did a thorough job and still have the compressor for other cars and jobs, all for less than 1/2 the price of someone else doing it. This year I used liqui-moly on my new 2010 Ice defender (although people tell me waxoyl is swiss i count'nt find it anywhere around Geneva) brilliant stuff and sets clear. I sold my last 110 to a fellow on the d2 forum, he's very happy with the condition of the vehicle (2003 110 xs), so i'll continue to do it myself. nothing wrong with getting someone else to do it but where's the satisfaction? |
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10th Nov 2010 8:23pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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Which reminds me that I wrote a brief 'how to' article some years ago which can be found in the LR4x4 tech archive http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...#entry1644 Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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13th Nov 2010 9:09am |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1786  
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I purchased a 'professional application kit' plus MIL spec fluid and black wax underseal from Rustbuster, had a problem with a faulty gun which made first attempt very, very messy,
 but Ian helped on the 'phone and then replaced the gun.
I finished the job today, no mess, no problems, very few drips got past the cardboard onto the drive, I know there is 15 litres of MIL spec inside every box section, plus 6 litres of black wax sealing everything and looking very smart. Thank you Rustbuster & Ian, 100% recommended 
Ickle |
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13th Nov 2010 10:23pm |
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