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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816   
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Duralac or Weicon, guess both of them are good anti-seize pastes. I have to make the first trials with the Weicon, but only thing I know from using Duralac is that the white soft compound with time turns into a hard plasticky yellowish layer. Will try the Weicon soon, and hope that this one would not harden up so much. Time will tell I guess.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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7th Jun 2015 2:16pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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Surely it's corrosion block that's needed not anti seize paste so duralac would be better. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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7th Jun 2015 2:50pm |
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| Entreq Member Since: 02 Jun 2015 Location: Lake Constance Posts: 43 
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In glands, where there are both nut and bolt and the clamping parts made of stainless steel materials, there may be the so-called cold welding or galling (engl. To seize) come. The Antiseize coating the cold welding is effectively prevented.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_welding |
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7th Jun 2015 3:00pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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I understand about cold welding but I thought Eric was talking about the corrosion between dissimilar metals? Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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7th Jun 2015 4:40pm |
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| Pickles Member Since: 26 May 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 3772  
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Awesome detailed response Erik, as usual, so thanks for that. It's certainly food for thought.
Gracies has all of her original bolts, but I have taken to spraying them all with WD40 every month or so, & putting a reasonable amount on, so as to try to make it "seep" down the threads. Don't know if it'll be any help, but that's what I'm doing! Pickles. |
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7th Jun 2015 11:28pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018  
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There's a certain irony in the same thread as extolling the virtues of removing stainless steel bolts to be then adding large edging sections with greater contact areas. What's the rational behind that?
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8th Jun 2015 9:08am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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Supacat, if with my not perfect English language command I correctly understand what you mean by "adding large edging sections", meaning large stainless steel surfaces in direct contact with the alu surfaces on the truck. Correct understanding?
If so, I think you are referring to the new security hinges and the 85° door opening adjustment brackets. Well, I don't see any similarity here to the stainless door brackets or rear body screws. The mentioned add-on items are both stainless, but the Puma hood is not alu, it is steel. Further both the security hinges and the hood are painted without any damage to it, so not even metal to metal contact there. Same for the second row adjustment brackets, the rear of my seat box is properly painted, not damaged, so those brackest come in contact with the paint only. My truck currently is stored not at home, I need to double check, but I believe that the bolts used to fix the brackets to the rear of the seat box are mild steel, not stainless. Then the rear door strip, the original which is galvanized steel I think, came off with a bit of rust on the underside. Now, the body was - still - rust free, no damage to paint at all. So again, in my case the body here is very well painted, and the stainless strip was layed down with added Dinitrol whereever possible, and the stainless screws in the original holes were properly treated with Weicon. So, I think long term, even if there will be further moisture creeping in between bottom of door and the tub/new strip from the rain and (mostly car wash in my case  ) I think the stainless strip will just not rust, and there is no direct metal to metal contact either. Better than the standard galvanized strip I think, which is a hidden rust factory as you only will find out what has been happening to it if you take it out. Which is not something you do very easily if not for a specific purpose.
Now, the door and rear tub bolts seem a totally different story, the side doors itself of a new Puma may be steel now, but the all or part of the hinges remains alu I believe, so even if the threaded part of the hinges which takes the bolts would initially be very well painted (will differ from batch to batch as we all know) fair chance that even the initial screwing in of the mild bolts in the factory will break the paint, and you have direct contact steel to alu. This is where Weicon or other anti-seize paste comes in, and if sufficiently applied, may well keep problems of various metals contact corrosion at bay. Now, having seen the first signals in the holes of my rear body of white alu powder, i.e. alu corrosion from the lack of anti corrosion paste, I not only now have plenty of Weicon paste and additional plastic washers, but think for limiting the risk as much as possible for future problems to doors and rear body, I am going to eliminate any future stainless corroding other metals risk totally. So revert back to standard bolts on all 5 doors and rear body, plus Weicon, plus rear body plastic washers. That seems max possible proactive approach to limit long term future alu corrosion risk I guess. At least I cannot think of anything better to do. Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw Last edited by ericvv on 12th Mar 2016 6:17am. Edited 1 time in total |
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10th Jun 2015 5:26am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3633 
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ACF50 when new and a wipe over now and again has kept all my original none stainless fasteners looking like new, and where I have stainless security screws they were fitted with a spray of ACF and no evidence of any corrosion yet. most noticeable is the fuel rail on the engine that is a nice dark metal colour somewhat different to the front pulley area that I avoided because of the belts. Cant recommend ACF50 enough DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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10th Jun 2015 6:13am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Eric - apologies for the wording - I was referring to the door strips. I don't think the originals were galvanised and hence you noticing rust. JLR wave them about in a light mist of something that is just meant to get it through a PDI and customer handover. Galvanising them would have been a good option - I just painted mine. Would it have been more expensive for Entreq to have made these from aluminium and maybe even anodised them? That way you would have not had to fight the stainless battle which can only go one way over time. |
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10th Jun 2015 10:11am |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069
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I fitted My entreq intercooler pipes today, looks to be just in time, the pipe from the turbo had been rubbing on something, not worn thru but not great ... Who designs these things ? (Are they designed?)
Bit of a struggle removing one hose clip but using a 7mm bendy screwdriver sorted it. |
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20th Jun 2015 6:24pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Is it the steering shaft?
it seems odd to me that if the design is the same as the 2.2s that had a recall for a bracket fitted to the alternator to lift the hose above the shaft, that the 2.4s didn't have the same recall. Would the bracket fit the 2.4s even? |
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20th Jun 2015 8:13pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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Supacat, I think the pipe design is quite different between 2.4 and 2.2, very different shape.
The 2.4 by my knowledge does not have the same problem the 2.2 generally suffer from, being that one of the pipes just pops off, and that often even again after they have been put back by the dealer. You would think that they would tighten it all up better then, but seems does not help. Many accounts of that on here if you search. My experience with the 2.4 has been that about 4 years ago one of my standard pipes split under the pressure from the turbo, was replaced by new under warranty. No popping off like with the 2.2 though. Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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21st Jun 2015 7:10am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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Steve, now that you have installed the intercooler pipes, did you also install those other parts from Germany at the same time? If so, any difference noticeable when you drive the ICE? Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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21st Jun 2015 7:14am |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018
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Not sure if you are inventing another issue for the 2.2 there. I thought the issue was the intercooler to turbo pipe rubbed on the steering shaft. In replacing the pipe or otherwise checking the issue, the end clips have not been tightened up sufficiently causing the hose to come adrift thereafter. Definitely not a general problem and one not inherent in the vehicle but rather caused by poor mechanicing. |
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21st Jun 2015 11:37am |
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