 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Handbrake cable removal. |
 
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| bga86 Member Since: 17 Jan 2014 Location: Here and there Posts: 205  
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Don't be worried about it mark it's an easy job! First off is to remove the prop then take the hand brake drum off, personally I always remove the hand brake back plate with shoes etc and do the job in a vice. Undo the 4x15mm bolts on the back plate and it will come off. Don't forget to remove the cable from the hand brake, pull the rubber boot off, take the split pin out of the roll pin and push the cable free. To push it back through the seat box you may need to tap it with a screw driver and a hammer. Refitting is reverse of removal. Hard to explain but if you have a workshop manual you will not go far wrong
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4th Dec 2014 7:36pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610  
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If link works give it time to load and you have everything you need hopefully.
Good luck...... https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?cid=4B...&wdo=1 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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4th Dec 2014 7:43pm |
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| MarkR Member Since: 26 Apr 2014 Location: Norfolk Posts: 15 
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Thanks guys, I'm still waiting for the cable to arrive but I had a crawl under it this afternoon. I poked about for a bit and realised that the handbrake seemed jammed on, so I've took it (the cable) off then pushed it back from the handle end, it doesn't seem stuck on now in fact there is a bit of movement in the drum. I also had a quick go at undoing the bolts that attach the prop to the drum......but are they some weird size or something? I ask as apart from being difficult to get a socket on them, a 14 m/m socket seems loose and a 13m/m won't go on. I will take a better look when the cable gets delivered as the light was fading and I didn't want to ring off the nut. Cheers. All the best
Mark |
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4th Dec 2014 9:25pm |
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| bga86 Member Since: 17 Jan 2014 Location: Here and there Posts: 205
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The nuts are 9/16" in size
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4th Dec 2014 9:29pm |
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| MarkR Member Since: 26 Apr 2014 Location: Norfolk Posts: 15
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Ahhh, that'll be it then. I will dig through my old mans gear and look for a ring spanner. All the best
Mark |
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4th Dec 2014 9:37pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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Yes 9/16 socket/spanner size , 3/8 unf thread if youneed to get new nuts
14mm is very slightly smaller than 9/16 , so new or good 14mm socket will be tight fit making it a pain , better to get a proper 9/16 socket in 3/8 drive to make job easier |
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4th Dec 2014 9:40pm |
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| Dieselhead Member Since: 21 Oct 2012 Location: Pulborough. West Sussex Posts: 552 |
Buy this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFEN...1065562972 Will save you alot of time & rude words  Chris
2008 XS 110 2.4 Utility. Tonga Green 1953 Series 1 for restoration 1983 Mini Mayfair 2004 VW T5 Camper 2008 Diahatsu Sirion. Thats hers Classic Bolens Garden Tractors |
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5th Dec 2014 3:47pm |
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| MarkR Member Since: 26 Apr 2014 Location: Norfolk Posts: 15
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OK....so I cheated a bit. The job is done but I couldn't take any pictures as I was on a bit of a time limit, basically my brother in law has his own garage and testing centre and I happened to mention when we had a beer on Friday that I needed to change the cable. He said come over Saturday afternoon and you can do it over my pit if your quick, so that's what happened. He gave me a great tip on replacing the cable so I will pass it on for the advice I received from here.
Take the prop and drum off, but leave all the brake shoes in place. Then disconnect the cable from the hand brake end, snip the cable off between the rubber sleeve and long spring and lever out the old head of the cable. Then push the new cable into the drum end first and with some long nosed pliers place the new cable into the holder. Then from the hand brake handle end lever the cable into place with a block of wood and some pliers until the pin can be pushed in. This saves all the faffing with the shoes. Oh and FYI the cable wasn't snapped, the plastic sleeve that goes around the wire had delaminated from the wire and was preventing any form of return. We decided as we had the cable it was worth replacing rather than trying to strip the old cable and bodge it. Thanks for all of the advice, very kind of you all. All the best Mark |
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6th Dec 2014 4:59pm |
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| ARC99 Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1831 
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Well I'm disappointed, I thought that Caterham would have posted what with all his experience with handbrakes.
 Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place, so it doesn't take much to  us off.
Richard |
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6th Dec 2014 5:09pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298 
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I would have
 . But only just noticed this after doing a search just now. Sorry to disappoint...
Don't suppose you noticed a spring on the abutment plate did you....anyone got a photo of the inside of the drum brake? Many thanks |
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23rd Feb 2015 8:10pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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Im had a spring on the top plate holding back to backplate
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23rd Feb 2015 9:53pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6298
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Thanks Munch90
Can you recall if the spring was above or below the plate? I'm wondering if the spring being below could be pulling everything up where if it was on top it might not and therefore allow everything to centre better?
And  |
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23rd Feb 2015 10:58pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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I will try to have a look later , its under bench in workshop
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24th Feb 2015 6:30am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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im sure I took it off as one lump and never took any springs off etc , so should be as it was fitted
the spring pulling shoes back is under the plate , also the top of the shoes are quite a lot worn more then buttom , so maybe that's how they tend to wear ? |
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24th Feb 2015 7:12am |
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