 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Taca-taca-taca noise |
 
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| Eduardo Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Región Metropolitana Posts: 2109   
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Hi there!
I have an annoying noise (taca-taca-taca) when the Defender is stopped in neutral. As soon as I press the clutch the noise dissapeared. Also the noise are not present in any gear (except neutral) or when the Defender is moving in neutral. Looks like coming from the bell housing or near this point. Any thoughts about the origin? Thanks! Eduardo MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64' MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"  Click image to enlarge |
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28th Jul 2014 4:31am |
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I have also noticed mine has a vibration noise when just pulling off it only lasts about 1-2 seconds
| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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sounds like clutch springs getting loose
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28th Jul 2014 8:25am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17338  
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Puma clutch death rattle. Switch the engine off with the box in neautral and the clutch in (ie foot off pedal). Repeat with clutch out (foot on pedal). Compare the sounds. If the former results in a sharp rattle and the latter does not, get a new driven plate fitted sooner rather than later. It sounds to me like a classic rattle caused by the driven plate springs taking on a permanent set and becomeing loose. If so and if left too long they will fall out and (a) the vehicle will be undrivable and (b) the repair will be more expensive. Life expectancy of the latest (hence best) driven plates seems typically to be 50k to 80k miles, dependent upon use. |
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28th Jul 2014 8:48am |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1913  
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 mines only done 30k  will try the test later
 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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28th Jul 2014 10:45am |
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| Eduardo Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Región Metropolitana Posts: 2109
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Ouch,
You confirm my fears 
Well. I have 140.000 km in the clock with this clutch... Was changed under guarantee at thr 40.000 km. Eduardo MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64' MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo" Click image to enlarge |
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28th Jul 2014 12:52pm |
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| Eduardo Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Región Metropolitana Posts: 2109
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Quick question:
Its worth to use the LR original spare or AP drive is OK? Eduardo MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64' MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo" Click image to enlarge |
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28th Jul 2014 3:34pm |
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| Mongolia Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Toulouse Posts: 45 
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Hi eduardo,
My first plate was changed under guarantee at 60.000 kmon the clock and the last done 135.000 km : one spring dropped on the clutch. The new one is a genuine, why not? Now, they say they have no return |
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28th Jul 2014 4:12pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17338
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There should be no difference between AP and gen LR, both are from same source. I was surprised to find that my brand new AP driven plate rattled when I shook it straight out of the box, but it is silent now it's fitted.
I will probably change it every 50k miles (2 years for me) ad a matter of routine now. |
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28th Jul 2014 4:56pm |
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| Eduardo Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Región Metropolitana Posts: 2109
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Thanks
Eduardo
MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64' MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo" Click image to enlarge |
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28th Jul 2014 6:21pm |
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| Raddy Member Since: 20 Aug 2013 Location: St. Sampsons Posts: 55  
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I've noticed mine has started doing this recently.. oh dear!
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28th Jul 2014 6:38pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2637  
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Yep, with the Puma, best you start and switch off the engine with the clutch in.
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2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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28th Jul 2014 7:10pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17338
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Don't you mean out (ie pedal pressed)?
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28th Jul 2014 7:43pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1913
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How much would this repair cost? 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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28th Jul 2014 7:46pm |
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| Eduardo Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Región Metropolitana Posts: 2109
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Not so cheap according to LRDirect
Depend of the piece manufacturer: Between 44 (Bearmach)-65 (LR genuine) GBP for the clutch Slave bearing (i'm not sure if is neccesary to change it) Between 88 (Britpart)-213 (LR genuine) GBP for the clutch repair kit All that plus the labour cost. Already ask for a quotation from one of our forum sponsors. Here in Chile the cost is over 550 GBP plus labour for an OEM source Eduardo
MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64' MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo" Click image to enlarge |
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28th Jul 2014 8:28pm |
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