Joe the Plumber wrote:

Everyone here says use Dinitrol (at least no one suggested Waxoyl), but I assume none of them have read the July 2013 report by Dr Phil Green from the University of Hertfordshire School of Engineering and Technology called "Assessment of Wax Coatings Using a Salt Spray Cyclic Corrosion Test".

In this, six well known corrosion protection products were each put, at the same film thickness, onto three identical bare steel plates, along with one steel plate left bare, and subjected to wet salt spray testing in a controlled environment. After the time was up, the products were cleaned off and the amount of corrosion assessed.

The results, after 2084 hours of testing in a ridiculously harsh environment, put Dinitrol 3125HS in 4th place, with Bilt Hamber's Dynax S50 a comprehensive 1st. There was the barest trace of rust on the very edges of the plates coated with it, whereas the Dinitrol had around 75-80% corrosion under it. Waxoyl was 98-100% rust incidentally.

The test was done at the request of Bilt Hamber, but I can find no hint of any bias towards them in the report. It's all backed up with multiple photographs of the results.

It's your vehicle, and your money, but if you want the best corrosion protection you can get for it, Bilt Hamber is the firm to use, and they're British too:

www.bilthamber.com

If you contact them, they will probably let you have a copy of the report. It's a real eye opener.

It's easy to do it yourself with their big high pressure aerosol cans as they come with 2' tubes with diffusers on the ends to get into all the awkward areas. Peter Hamber suggested to me to use Dynax S50 inside the 110's box sections, and Dynax UB on the exposed surfaces. I'm going to use the UC to protect the less exposed mechanical assemblies too.

Having previously tried various alternatives, I've used BH stuff on my vehicles for eight years now, and wouldn't entertain anything else. And no, I'm just a customer, not an employee (although I ought to be on commission!)

I hope this is of interest.

ericvv wrote:

Matthew_Mills wrote:

So I'm assuming that Dinitrol is an oil wax mix that you spray on, having cleaned everything down... I've seen a couple of threads on how to do so I guess go read gain is the answer...

Matthew, I don't think Dinitrol is an "oil wax" as you call it there, contrary to something like waxoyl often used in the UK. Dinitrol does not have a petroleum product smell like the above.
Now as to Dinitrol application, a lot is to say for leaving this messy job to a professional, but then not just to the first one around the corner. It took me months of searching here in Switzerland, and finally I drove the truck from here all the way to Belgium to get it done by a garage who still are interested to do this job, and who follow the rules by the book.
Dinitrol still today are providing to their professional applicators for specific car models a constantly updated step by step handbook of the entire process to follow for that car model, which Dinitrol product to use on what, how to apply it, which elements to take off of the car, how and what to protect before starting, etc....
A good Dinitrol center will follow these rules by the book, and also have the equipment needed to properly apply the product into all nooks and crannies... For instance, the inside of my chassis legs was sprayed with pure Dinitrol at a pressure of 80bar.... I don't think you can do this at home.
When my car was treated, it was first half taken apart by them, wheels and door cards removed, lights taken off, wheel arch brows removed, ceertain trim removed, all door screws taken out one by one for extra access, etc. etc. And all put back professionally without any damage.
Now, if you find an outfit which still can/want to do that in the UK, I recommend to go there. If not, better to do yourself.
Frankly, at the time, I had to go as far as Antwerp to find someone who was still passionate about this, when you talk with people like that, you immediately will feel that they know what they talk about. More recently, we finally found one outfit here in Switzerland who are even better than the one in Antwerp, not here in Geneva where they charge you the world, but do not really know any more the art of doing this. It is a body/engineering firm at the other end of the country near Basel, where a friend of mine had his new Defender done a year ago, and they are just amazing. Mine will go there this spring for a full retreatment now after first treatment 3 years ago.
Sofar I have not seen anybody in the UK here on this forum talk as highly and confidently about a Dinitrol provider their end, so guess the kind of people we found in Antwerp and here are becoming like needles in a haystack.
All above to say that a real professional can probably still do a very superior job at workable prices. When I have seen how much work they put into it, I thought even the price they charge here in Switzerland is more than worth it.
Good luck, Eric

great response... I love this forum, so many people with passion for what we all love - our Defenders... I'll think long and hard about your comments... I love Switzerland so might just make an excuse and come down... Maybe we can say 'hi' too... Thanks again...

Joe the Plumber wrote:

As an additional thought, I'm in the process of enquiring whether Lokari make wheel arch liners for the later Defenders. They do them for models to 1989:

http://www.lokari.de/epages/62716287.sf/en...-0879-0880

And it may be these will also fit the newer ones. I had a front pair from them for my old Opel Manta which were astonishingly good.

Keeping the cack out of the nooks and crannies in the first place must be a very good idea.

I'll report back once I know more.

Joe the Plumber... great contribution and I will be contacting them too... you star...

Quote:

Joe, surely of interest. Surprised this was never brought up before. But if there is such a comparative test done, with Bilthamber coming out tops, why don't Bilthamer put an easy link to this report on their website? Cannot imagine any better advertising than that, no?
Eric

Joe the Plumber wrote:

Everyone here says use Dinitrol (at least no one suggested Waxoyl), but I assume none of them have read the July 2013 report by Dr Phil Green from the University of Hertfordshire School of Engineering and Technology called "Assessment of Wax Coatings Using a Salt Spray Cyclic Corrosion Test".

In this, six well known corrosion protection products were each put, at the same film thickness, onto three identical bare steel plates, along with one steel plate left bare, and subjected to wet salt spray testing in a controlled environment. After the time was up, the products were cleaned off and the amount of corrosion assessed.

The results, after 2084 hours of testing in a ridiculously harsh environment, put Dinitrol 3125HS in 4th place, with Bilt Hamber's Dynax S50 a comprehensive 1st. There was the barest trace of rust on the very edges of the plates coated with it, whereas the Dinitrol had around 75-80% corrosion under it. Waxoyl was 98-100% rust incidentally.

The test was done at the request of Bilt Hamber, but I can find no hint of any bias towards them in the report. It's all backed up with multiple photographs of the results.

It's your vehicle, and your money, but if you want the best corrosion protection you can get for it, Bilt Hamber is the firm to use, and they're British too:

www.bilthamber.com

If you contact them, they will probably let you have a copy of the report. It's a real eye opener.

It's easy to do it yourself with their big high pressure aerosol cans as they come with 2' tubes with diffusers on the ends to get into all the awkward areas. Peter Hamber suggested to me to use Dynax S50 inside the 110's box sections, and Dynax UB on the exposed surfaces. I'm going to use the UC to protect the less exposed mechanical assemblies too.

Having previously tried various alternatives, I've used BH stuff on my vehicles for eight years now, and wouldn't entertain anything else. And no, I'm just a customer, not an employee (although I ought to be on commission!)

I hope this is of interest.