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HansT



Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Sweden 2004 Defender 110 Td5 SW Belize Green
Now I have fially received the correct throttle sensor and fitted it together with o-ring and shim today.

It made no differance what so ever!

The engine starts fine. On very slow throttle application it revs to 2500 - 3000 rpm and then cuts out. On fast full throttle application it dies immediately. Tested in neutral only.

Time to send it to a LR dealer?

Hans
Post #267959 19th Sep 2013 7:26pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Post #267960 19th Sep 2013 7:28pm
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HansT



Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Sweden 2004 Defender 110 Td5 SW Belize Green
Thanks Tiger for your tip. I have checked the wastegate so it is not stuck. Doing this I belive that my engine is note fitted with a Modulator and the pipe to the actuator goes direct from the turbo inlet hose.

Hans
Post #267981 19th Sep 2013 8:44pm
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Macpaul



Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Loire Blue
HansT wrote:
Now I have fially received the correct throttle sensor and fitted it together with o-ring and shim today.

It made no differance what so ever!

The engine starts fine. On very slow throttle application it revs to 2500 - 3000 rpm and then cuts out. On fast full throttle application it dies immediately. Tested in neutral only.

Time to send it to a LR dealer?

Hans


I guess that's a typo for crank sensor but I'm sorry to hear that.

Having read through again, its hard to escape the idea of a high speed crank fault as SkyeRover says, but what to do about it now that you have replaced the sensor, I do not know. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too.
Post #268033 20th Sep 2013 7:18am
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HansT



Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Sweden 2004 Defender 110 Td5 SW Belize Green
Yes Macpaul, you are right. Of course it should read crank sensor. Thanks for pointing it out.

Hans
Post #268651 22nd Sep 2013 8:46pm
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Macpaul



Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Loire Blue
Really doesn't matter! Sorry not to have any answer. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too.
Post #268654 22nd Sep 2013 8:58pm
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HansT



Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Sweden 2004 Defender 110 Td5 SW Belize Green
Below are the fault codes logged before replacing the crank sensor. The suggestion from the Swedish LR Forum is that many of the codes indicate that the injector harness is faulty. So I have ordered a new harness from one of the forum sponsors.

As my Defender does not have ABS or AC, I have not paid any attention to those fault codes.

Do you guys have any other suggestions?

THE TD5 FAULT CODE MEMORY CONTAINS CODES FOR THE FOLLOWING FAULTS -:

(10,1) AIR CONDITIONING FAN DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (LOGGED)
(10,4) GEARBOX / ABS DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (LOGGED).
(10,5) AIR CONDITIONING CLUTCH DRIVE OPEN LOA D, (LOGGED).
(14,1) AIR CONDITIONING FAN DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (CURRENT)
(14,4) GEARBOX / ABS DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (CURRENT).
(14,5) AIR CONDITIONING CLUTCH DRIVE OPEN LOAD, (CURRENT).
(15,2) HIGH SPEED CRANK (LOGGED).
(27,1) INJECTOR 1 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED).
(27,2) INJECTOR 2 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED).
(27,3) INJECTOR 3 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED).
(27,4) INJECTOR 4 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED).
(27,5) INJECTOR 5 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED).
(28,7) TOPSIDE SWITCH FAILED PRE INJECTION, (LOGGED).
(31,1) INJECTOR 1 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED).
(31,2) INJECTOR 2 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED).
(31,3) INJECTOR 3 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED).
(31,4) INJECTOR 4 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED).
(31,5) INJECTOR 5 OPEN CIRCUIT DETECTED, (LOGGED).

/Hans
Post #268855 23rd Sep 2013 6:51pm
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Skye_Rover



Member Since: 29 Aug 2013
Location: Skye
Posts: 85

Scotland 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Cairns Blue
Could be the output-stage capacitors for the injector drives in the ECU. I haven't seen the whole lot go like that (i.e. all five injector circuits flagging a fault), so it would be worth checking and double-checking all of the earths and power supplies to the ECU before writing it off as requiring a test by a specialist. There would be no point going anywhere near a LR dealership, you would need to get the ECU in the post to a specialist ECU overhaul company if you are not happy about soldering new capacitors into the ECU yourself.

Make a really good check of all of your earths and power supply voltages (measure whilst the engine is under load and is failing) before going any further. Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Post #268973 23rd Sep 2013 11:37pm
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HansT



Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Sweden 2004 Defender 110 Td5 SW Belize Green
Thanks Skye_Rover for your advise. Could you please advise in more details how I should go about to carry out your suggested tests remembering that I am not at all technical minded?

Following a previous advise, I did connect the stud at the bottom of the seat box direct to battery (-) in order to ensure that the ECU was grounded. This made no difference. But on the other hand I am not sure that I did this correct...

Hans
Post #269027 24th Sep 2013 10:49am
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Skye_Rover



Member Since: 29 Aug 2013
Location: Skye
Posts: 85

Scotland 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Cairns Blue
If the stud was the ground/earth header connection (black wire from within the harness going into a ring terminal) then you did the correct thing if you connected this to the battery -ve terminal. This is the main connection point for the four ground wires that feed into the black connector plug on the ECU. These wires, and some of the power supply wires are fed via a group header connection near the ECU, so if this is faulty, then you might not get the benefit of the improved earth/ground connection at your stud.

If you have a multimeter that you can see while you are driving, then it would be worth checking the differential voltage across the ECU (that is, the actual ground voltage and the actual +ve feed voltage) at the black connector plug. You will need to be able to measure these wires without disconnecting the black connector from the ECU, so you will either have to "back-probe" the connector, or pierce into the wire near the connector. The former option is much better, as it will not give problems in the future (the Defender box under the seat is not a very dry area!). To back-probe, you will need a sharp pin (sewing pin) that can be attached to each of your meter probes, and each pin/probe will need to be wrapped in insulation tape - except at the sharp end - to prevent any chance of a short circuit. You need to measure the following terminals on the ECU black connector (the numbers are also printed on the plastic plug, but you can tell the connections by the wire colour);
-ve terminal = aperture "1" or "2" (black wires)
+ve terminal = aperture "3" or "22" or "27" (brown with orange stripe wires)
If you are seeing a voltage that drops by more than 0.1v when you are driving under load, compared to when the engine is just idling, then you may have a power supply issue which will require further investigation.

I would advise waiting until you have the new injector harness fitted, and make sure that the connector and wires that the injector harness attaches-to at the cam cover are clean and dry of oil. Try the engine with the new harness first, as this harness has to carry around 100volts at injector firing and will show internal short-circuits very easily.

If you are not careful when making the measurements above on the ECU power supply, you could cause some real damage! So don't do this unless you need to go the next stage, and be aware that the measurement probes must be insulated from everything around them. Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Post #269247 24th Sep 2013 10:11pm
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conny



Member Since: 25 Sep 2013
Location: rotterdam
Posts: 3

Netherlands 
I had exactly the same problem! Turned out to be the ecu. Had it replaced and no problems anymore (wel not similar ones Rolling Eyes )
Repairing an ecu from a Td5 seems quite impossible; it would be nice to have the old one as a spare.
Post #269341 25th Sep 2013 12:23pm
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HansT



Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Sweden 2004 Defender 110 Td5 SW Belize Green
Thanks for your advise Conny. The ECU is on my list of things to check/replace. But I start with less expensive items... Have tried to get hold of a used ECU to test but so far I have not managed. How much did you have to pay for yours in the Netherlands?

Hans
Post #269435 25th Sep 2013 7:10pm
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conny



Member Since: 25 Sep 2013
Location: rotterdam
Posts: 3

Netherlands 
750 euro

Try to find a company that repairs ecu's for td5's. Needle in a haystack. I believe td5alive repairs them, not sure.
Post #269524 26th Sep 2013 8:24am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I do not have any experience with TD5 but do recall seeing something about oil ingress into the injector harness and subsequently 'leeching' into the ECU itself. In desperation (and this is not a criticism) you seem to be spending and throwing parts at it to try to cure it. As you confessed you are not mechanically minded it may be worth getting the assistance of an auto electrician to check out the injector harness and ECU outputs prior to committing to a large outlay perhaps?

Have a read of these threads....Hope you get it sorted Hans....at minimum cost to yourself..... Thumbs Up

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic4426.html

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic4536.h...tamination If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #269527 26th Sep 2013 8:47am
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HansT



Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Sweden 2004 Defender 110 Td5 SW Belize Green
The injector harness has been ordered and that seems quite easy to replace.

If that does not help I have to decide what to do about the ECU. The best would be to borrow one to test but so far I have not been lucky...

Hans
Post #269648 26th Sep 2013 8:01pm
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