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landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5663

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

Possibly.
NSC100790

31st Aug 2013 9:07pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5663

Just searching about for you and found

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=64613

Andy

31st Aug 2013 9:13pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5663

NSJ000010

Is the spacer part number

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/1265...ion_sensor

Cps
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/8862..._def_dis11

31st Aug 2013 9:15pm

HansT

Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

landy andy wrote:
Just searching about for you and found

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=64613

Andy

"When I try to rev the engine it sounds like a bag of hammers and stops"

This does not apply to my engine.

Hans

PS
Thanks for uploading the photos for me and for the part Nos. I will order a new sensor and shim.
DS

31st Aug 2013 10:47pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5663

I thought this bit was interesting.

"Fault appears around 2750 revs when engine stops and check engine light comes on."

Andy

1st Sep 2013 5:57am

Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Loire Blue

landy andy wrote:
I thought this bit was interesting.

"Fault appears around 2750 revs when engine stops and check engine light comes on."

Andy

Exactly. Blimey Hans, this isn't that precise a science you know!

Andy's going the extra mile for you here.

Call a LR dealer, get the parts and let us know. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too.

1st Sep 2013 7:01am

HansT

Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Macpaul wrote:
landy andy wrote:
I thought this bit was interesting.

"Fault appears around 2750 revs when engine stops and check engine light comes on."

Andy

Exactly. Blimey Hans, this isn't that precise a science you know!

Andy's going the extra mile for you here.

Call a LR dealer, get the parts and let us know.

I really appreciate all the support you guys are giving me. I have ordered the OEM crank sensor plus shim today and will keep you posted about the result.

Can you explain what Splitpin means by unplugging the 2 solenoids as I thought I would try that today.

Has

1st Sep 2013 1:57pm

Splitpin

Member Since: 07 May 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 100

The early Td5s only have one controlling the egr and the later have a second controlling a throttle flap which is driven to encourage egr flow.

There are 2 ways to shut down a Diesel engine, no air or no fuel, the crank signal failing will stop fuel being injected but would show in live data on a fault reader with the rpm dropping out.

A closed throttle will shut it down also, you could just unplug the MAF and remove the big rubber air intake hose on the manifold and watch the throttle valve when somebody revs it.

1st Sep 2013 2:09pm

Skye_Rover

Member Since: 29 Aug 2013
Location: Skye
Posts: 85

1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Cairns Blue

Sorry to add a bit to this thread so late, but the guys above that mention your crankshaft sensor are 100% correct. The crank sensor must be shimmed correctly, because TD5 is a bit "special" in that it monitors the cranks sensor signals for low and high speed domains separately in the software. What you are seeing is a low speed sensor "PASS" but a high speed (2500rpm) fault. Very common across the board for TD5 up to 2002MY. Do not bother to do anything else until you have correctly fixed your CPS, and that means measuring the shim gap correctly to confirm you have not got debris flying around in the flywheel housing. I have fixed several Disco's with this problem, much the same symptom (although the last one just would not start when hot).

Best of luck to you, I think you have earned it! Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

2nd Sep 2013 11:23pm

me@td5.org

Member Since: 16 Jan 2011
Location: Warwick
Posts: 856

Splitpin wrote:
The early Td5s only have one controlling the egr and the later have a second controlling a throttle flap which is driven to encourage egr flow.

There are 2 ways to shut down a Diesel engine, no air or no fuel, the crank signal failing will stop fuel being injected but would show in live data on a fault reader with the rpm dropping out.

A closed throttle will shut it down also, you could just unplug the MAF and remove the big rubber air intake hose on the manifold and watch the throttle valve when somebody revs it.

Re-read and deleted www.td5.org

3rd Sep 2013 6:53am

HansT

Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Skye_Rover wrote:
Sorry to add a bit to this thread so late, but the guys above that mention your crankshaft sensor are 100% correct. The crank sensor must be shimmed correctly, because TD5 is a bit "special" in that it monitors the cranks sensor signals for low and high speed domains separately in the software. What you are seeing is a low speed sensor "PASS" but a high speed (2500rpm) fault. Very common across the board for TD5 up to 2002MY. Do not bother to do anything else until you have correctly fixed your CPS, and that means measuring the shim gap correctly to confirm you have not got debris flying around in the flywheel housing. I have fixed several Disco's with this problem, much the same symptom (although the last one just would not start when hot).

Best of luck to you, I think you have earned it!

Thanks for your encouraging post! I have ordered a new OEM crank sensor plus a shim from one of the site sponsors. And as you said, I am not doing anything else on the vehicle until I tried that.

How do you measure the correct gap? My idea was just to fit the sensor with a shim as the existing sensor did not have a shim fitted.

Hans

4th Sep 2013 3:40pm

Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

That would be my suggestion.

I changed mine today and I fitted an o-ring which neither the original, nor the new part, had attached to it.

It would not start - maybe the o-ring I had was too big.

Anyway, I removed the o-ring and all was fine.

Definitely start by fitting the shim. I hope its thick enough.

Its an easy job if you disconnect the rubber air inlet hose first (undo the jubilee clip) and disconnect and reconnect the sensor before the part is in situ.

Good luck and let us know.. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too.

4th Sep 2013 6:17pm

Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

Just curious. Did you ever fix this? 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too.

16th Sep 2013 6:11am

Tiger

Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

Well he's not been back ...

Interested also to see if it worked

16th Sep 2013 6:22am

HansT

Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Sorry about the delay. I ordered a new crank sensor from England but it was not the correct one. So now I am waiting for a replacement which should arrive this week. I have not done anything else with the vehicle Before I have tried the new sensor. Will keep you informed about the result...

Hans

16th Sep 2013 1:20pm

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