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HansT

Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Today, a member of the Swedish LR Club came by and ran a number of diagnostic tests on his computer.

Checked the TPS several times. Tested with MAF disconnected. He did not see anything unusual but downloaded all results for further studies. When I have his results I will let you know.

He was going on vaccation so I will go sailing for a week. I am greatful for all suggestions you have come up with so far.

/Hans

12th Aug 2013 8:13pm

JimboD3

Member Since: 09 Apr 2013
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 55

I had a similar problem a while back - although mine cut out (with MIL light coming on), whenever I touched the throttle pedal. The truck would then take a few attempts to restart, but when it started it ran fine - unless I touched the throttle........

I swapped the throttle pedal - made no difference, eventually Ian (IRB) suggested that it could be the ECU - it was, and after fitting a new one I've not had any further problems.

Apparently, the big capacitors on the power supply side of the ECU can develop dry joints......I did take the thing apart with a view to re-soldering the dry joints, but need one of those big magnifying light things to do it, so it's in the 'to do' pile !

Jim Td5 110 HD Hardtop.......not quite standard

12th Aug 2013 9:15pm

HansT

Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Engine dies at full throttle

Your previous problem JimboD3 sounds similar to mine. But how did you go about to confirm that it was the ECU? They seems to be very expensive (ebay) so it would be nice to know Before you go ahead...

/Hans

12th Aug 2013 10:06pm

JimboD3

Member Since: 09 Apr 2013
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 55

Re: Engine dies at full throttle

HansT wrote:
Your previous problem JimboD3 sounds similar to mine. But how did you go about to confirm that it was the ECU? They seems to be very expensive (ebay) so it would be nice to know Before you go ahead...

/Hans

Hans,

I tried swapping the throttle pedal, that didn't work - and then Ian (of IRB fame) suggested the ECU........luckily he had a second hand one available.

Jim Td5 110 HD Hardtop.......not quite standard

13th Aug 2013 8:46pm

HansT

Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Do you have any recommendations where to purchase an ECU from? Used, service exchange or new?

/Hans

22nd Aug 2013 11:24pm

HansT

Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Engine cuts out at full throttle

I changed the the subject on this thread as the previous symtoms turned out to be totally wrong. Still no solution found...

/Hans

25th Aug 2013 10:47pm

Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Loire Blue

Just two other things to try (from my own experience):

1. Run an earth lead direct from the negative terminal on battery to the little stud on the base of the seatbox where the ECU lives. All you need is a length of cable with bare ends trailed across the inside of the cab to begin with. If it works, you can run it then in a permanent route with connectors.

This will guarantee a good earth for the ECU.

2. With a not-full fuel tank, take the filler cap off and go for a drive. If that helps, it's a tank venting problem , i.e you depress the throttle, the system demands more fuel quickly but cannot uplift it because air cannot get into the tank. The ECU then says 'yikes', problem.

No promises here and your problem may be more sophisticated but these are two very easy, simple things to try.

Best of luch,

Simon. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too.

26th Aug 2013 5:35am

Splitpin

Member Since: 07 May 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 100

Your age of car will have the double solenoid throttle valve and egr valve.

I would try the tests with the throttle valve forced open as I have seen electrical faults shut the valve and cause engine shutdown.

Maybe try running for the test with the intake hose removed so you can see inside the throttle valve, if doing this disconnect the MAF.

If the boost sensor is giving false readings it could be an over boost shutdown which will also shut the throttle valve but this would leave a code.

26th Aug 2013 6:38am

ajps72

Member Since: 08 Jan 2012
Location: Lima Peru
Posts: 105

Hello all, I had a similar problem and it was the fuel pump, its prefilter was all clogged, I open it up cleaned and now its working fine.

The fuel filter was ok, it seems the pump got dirt from bad fuel or long storaged diesel. Augusto

Defender 110 TD5 2001
Discovery 4 TDV6

26th Aug 2013 1:10pm

Macpaul

Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439

ajps72 wrote:
Hello all, I had a similar problem and it was the fuel pump, its prefilter was all clogged, I open it up cleaned and now its working fine.

The fuel filter was ok, it seems the pump got dirt from bad fuel or long storaged diesel.

That would be my next step. 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too.

26th Aug 2013 4:14pm

me@td5.org

Member Since: 16 Jan 2011
Location: Warwick
Posts: 856

When you say the engine dies does it stop or does it just lose all power?

Could your waste gate be jammed closed www.td5.org

26th Aug 2013 4:35pm

HansT

Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

me@td5.org wrote:
When you say the engine dies does it stop or does it just lose all power?

Could your waste gate be jammed closed

The engine- and pre-heating lights come on and the engine stops. After a few minutes it can be started again but only if the pre heating light is on.

I tried the waste gate actuator rod and it moves but is a bit heavy.

/Hans

26th Aug 2013 9:01pm

HansT

Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Macpaul wrote:
Just two other things to try (from my own experience):

1. Run an earth lead direct from the negative terminal on battery to the little stud on the base of the seatbox where the ECU lives. All you need is a length of cable with bare ends trailed across the inside of the cab to begin with. If it works, you can run it then in a permanent route with connectors.

This will guarantee a good earth for the ECU.

2. With a not-full fuel tank, take the filler cap off and go for a drive. If that helps, it's a tank venting problem , i.e you depress the throttle, the system demands more fuel quickly but cannot uplift it because air cannot get into the tank. The ECU then says 'yikes', problem.

No promises here and your problem may be more sophisticated but these are two very easy, simple things to try.

Best of luch,

Simon.

Two easy tests that I will carry out tomorrow. Thanks Simon.

/Hans

26th Aug 2013 9:08pm

HansT

Member Since: 25 Dec 2012
Location: Mariefred
Posts: 173

Macpaul wrote:
ajps72 wrote:
Hello all, I had a similar problem and it was the fuel pump, its prefilter was all clogged, I open it up cleaned and now its working fine.

The fuel filter was ok, it seems the pump got dirt from bad fuel or long storaged diesel.

That would be my next step.

Makes sense. Is it difficult to do this? I guess that I have to drop down the fuel tank.

/Hans

26th Aug 2013 9:16pm

Splitpin

Member Since: 07 May 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 100

How would fuel starvation light the glow plug light?

I would see what the throttle valve is doing, it's driven by a solenoid which is driven by the ecu as is the glow plug light.

It could be a loom issue or even ecu.

26th Aug 2013 9:41pm

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