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It also mentions down to 1mm wire I have 0.5mm. 
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299  
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Had a look at the holder I already have and also found some 3mm wire which will fit it better so sorted there now. Also found the fuses I have are actually 1A not 2A
 So better suited actually. I could carry on if I had some blue pre insulated crimps.  Too much on today to get any. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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4th May 2013 12:58pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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The second fuseholder in my second link isn't prewired and you just assemble the holder feed the wire through and connect up with a small screw, pretty much the same way as you wire a plug. Strip back double the length and bend the conduuctors in half 2 X 0.5mm =1mm in my book. Don't overcomplicate things and make it difficult for yourself. I can send you as many 20mm glass fuses as you could possibly wish for.
As a footnote being finicky 'best working practice' is that you should never increase the cross sectional area of a cable in a circuit. You could potentially introduce a resistance. (Although in this case with such a small draw it wouldn't matter).  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! Last edited by K9F on 4th May 2013 4:56pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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4th May 2013 1:57pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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Ah I didn't know that...
Probably best then if I get some more of the same size as I've got to get some more crimp terminals anyway. Shall have to wait to mid week at least now with no post service and I've got work on. I tend to always use thinwall cable on anything I do from either VWP or a good E-bay seller I often use. Will report back. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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4th May 2013 3:19pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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Added a fuse holder and 1A fuse today.
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Does the job I want it to do no problem and a good firm connection. Pre ins crimps turned up today too. Just waiting on a trim tool to turn up I bought and need to buy some head lining fir tree clips. Perhaps after all that I can start after all the postage delays and what not.  ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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8th May 2013 5:52pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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Okay, made some more progress today and took off the drivers door card and got the handle recess thing with the LED's in it back in now and the cable routed through the flexi door rubber joint. Only managed one door as I haven't got all day spare today and the weather seems a little iffy for my liking. All went well with getting the door card off and fitting and so on and plenty of pics to follow later. I have hit a small problem though with cable routing which I would be grateful for some advice of later. I put it in place for now and thought however tempting it maybe I won't take the drill to it and drill a hole just to route one wire and I thought I'd ask instead. Always better to avoid drilling IMO where ever possible.
 ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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19th May 2013 12:35pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Numerous things you can use to go through existing trunking if this is where you're heading.
Feed an initial lead using one of the following down the existing umbillical......Then attach your cable to the end and pull through.... Long cable tie, strimmer wire, thicker single conductor cable (won't bend too much as you push). If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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19th May 2013 12:54pm |
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| rustyboxx Member Since: 08 Oct 2012 Location: Poole Posts: 548 
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Steve, post up a pic when you get a chance, as I've fitted led's to my door handle recesses and might be able to offer some illuminating advice
 2015 90 XS CSW TDCi - Beautiful
2007 110 XS DCPU - An itch that needed scratching 2005 90 Td5 XS CSW - Utterly brilliant 2001 Discovery 2 ES Auto - A phase I went through 1996 90 Tdi CSW - Uber reliable 1989 90 2.5 Petrol Hardtop - My first proper Landy 1985 Range Rover Vogue V8 -Troublesome |
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19th May 2013 1:30pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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Pictures I will do later.
And thanks for the replys.
The area I'm finding an issue with is from the flexi door rubber cable joint between the door and the body. I've got wire through it already as Mal suggested with some stiff wire or similar. Now the issue is there it goes though the rubber boot into the cavity.. I can't seem to find a gap to exit the cable though around that area unless it's slightly behind the dash? Ideally I want to make the connection to the rest of the wiring in the area just below the door switches but under the matting. Or to the rear of the speakers but nearer the body. (obviously away from the speakers though to avoid issues) ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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19th May 2013 1:35pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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Click image to enlarge Photo's as promised..
Red = Cable run. Yellow = Internal section. Purple = Desired connection points. Behind the yellow box I have removed the trim / matting plate you can see and doof switch to remove the matting out of the way and behind there it doesn't seem to be anywhere at all I can get the LED's wires though. ALthough I have looks at first glance there doesn't seem to be. Ideally where the purple arrows are would be where I'd like to make the connections. If it has to be just up behind the dash then it's not a probably as long as it's within circa - 1ft of the rubber door boot. As I mentioned in the previous post where the rubber boot enters the body there is a cavity there but it seems to have no exit in the vicinity. However the pre-existing wiring such as the electric windows and door switch all head upwards so perhaps I just cannot see / get to where an access point would be. I am guessing near the dash area just above the photo. More photo's of what I've done so far can be found on: Page 3 & 4 Here **EDIT** Today didn't turn out quite so busy as anticipated so I've now just fitted the passenger side too so that completes the pair now. You wouldn't even know they were there which is just what I wanted. 
Presides better get on with it for the K9F B&W show inspection.   ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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19th May 2013 2:42pm |
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| rustyboxx Member Since: 08 Oct 2012 Location: Poole Posts: 548
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Steve, if you've still got my pm from 8th April there is a description of what I did to route the wire from the door up to the dash. Not sure if that's how you would want to do it but it worked great for me and all wires are out of sight.
 2015 90 XS CSW TDCi - Beautiful
2007 110 XS DCPU - An itch that needed scratching 2005 90 Td5 XS CSW - Utterly brilliant 2001 Discovery 2 ES Auto - A phase I went through 1996 90 Tdi CSW - Uber reliable 1989 90 2.5 Petrol Hardtop - My first proper Landy 1985 Range Rover Vogue V8 -Troublesome |
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19th May 2013 7:43pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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I do indeed. Just have trouble finding it as there is reams of messages I have.
I do have it though so will have a look. To be honest I was thinking of PM'ing you earlier but I wasn't sure if you would reply very quick as some times people can be away and reply a few days or a week later. Top marks though for the idea it's excellent and stealthy too to boot when not in use.
Will try and find the message now. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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19th May 2013 7:49pm |
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| rustyboxx Member Since: 08 Oct 2012 Location: Poole Posts: 548
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Let me know if you can't find it or need a bit more info. Couldn't copy and paste the relevant paragraph from the PM as I'm on my iPhone. Could post a pic tomorrow of what I've done if that helps. 2015 90 XS CSW TDCi - Beautiful
2007 110 XS DCPU - An itch that needed scratching 2005 90 Td5 XS CSW - Utterly brilliant 2001 Discovery 2 ES Auto - A phase I went through 1996 90 Tdi CSW - Uber reliable 1989 90 2.5 Petrol Hardtop - My first proper Landy 1985 Range Rover Vogue V8 -Troublesome |
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19th May 2013 8:14pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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I haven't read the rest of the thread so apologies if this has been answered already but the electric window / locking cables continue up inside that panel and come out under the bonnet right at the top of the bulkhead through a grommet. You then need to bring your cables back through the bulkhead inside again. This assumes you don't want to drill additional holes |
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19th May 2013 8:21pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20299
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Rusty - Pics are always welcome although not urgent it's going to be on hold for a short while again.
Until I get hold of the roof lining clips.
Go Beyond (Matt) - Thank-you for the info really helpful. Come to think of it when I first looked at it a month or so back I traced it that way but didn't look into it fully. I think if that is the route it takes it may after all be better to drill a small hole and use a grommet (just for the door handle LED's) Otherwise I'm going to have the cables going all over the place. Shall have a proper look soon and make my mind up. I'm 50 / 50 right now. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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19th May 2013 8:47pm |
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