![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > (Yet another) Rear Recovery Point Question |
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x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
They are great, but as already mentioned by Pam, no good for me if I needed to tow as I've got an SW so won't be type approved. Craig Rogers
2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142 ![]() ![]() |
gotcha, mines a 1994 so it doesnt matter. |
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Timo K Member Since: 23 Aug 2012 Location: Helsinki Posts: 171 ![]() ![]() |
The Dixon-Bate four bolt tow hitches (inc. NATO jaw) should be 85x45mm. 99% certain of this. Don't shoot me if I'm wrong... |
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JSG Member Since: 12 Jul 2007 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2412 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That swivel should fit using the four tapped holes above your tow bar - thats where they are designed to fit. ![]() ![]() Click image to enlarge John http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk 2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS |
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x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks John, that's what I want but I think it will foul the top of the tow bar.
Thinking out loud, I could fabricate a plate to space it out flush with the tow bar! Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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JSG Member Since: 12 Jul 2007 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2412 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Try it first - mine didn't so unless the fixing plate on the rear step is a lot smaller than the tow bar it would be ok. If you need to put some spacers in that should work - the holes are the same size and spacing as a NATO hitch. John http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk 2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS |
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SteveT247 Member Since: 21 Feb 2011 Location: Central Posts: 491 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I really like that, sturdy without taking much away from the departure angle. ![]() |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Not too sure I am reading this right....... But are you talking about fitting a recovery point to your tow bar mount? If so I would highly advise against it. A Defender in the mud would quite easily excess the 3.5 ton capacity. You really are looking at either on your rear cross member or jate rings.
Glyn |
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LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324 ![]() ![]() |
The 3.5 tonne figure is only a legal capacity (for a trailer with overrun brakes) rather than a physical limit. The bracket will be good for a lot more than that in the real world. Also, JATE rings only use the same mounts as the lower stays on the tow bar.
Something mounted directly to the crossmember may be ultimately stronger, but only if a proper spreader plate is used. Anything that relies only on the existing threaded holes won't be any stronger than a standard tow bar, which uses the same of similar mounting points and stays back to the chassis rails. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yes having more points of contact can be beneficial, but when talking about a how hitch rated to a trailer capacity of 3.5 tons it is only talking about the forces involved whilst towing a trailer on a suitable surface- a 3.5 ton trailer won't put more than about 500ish Kg of force on the tow bracket- if it did you would start to lose control of your truck and most likely end up on your roof depending on the angles involved. I have seen a lightly loaded sankey trailer (total weight of about 1 ton) take a 110 over with little effort. When towing a trailer it is a steady load on a specified area from a specific direction and angles- this is not the case when doing recovery. You want the recovery point as close to the chassis as possible- as with all the recovery brackets above is basically a few mm away from it. But I also don't see any point in keeping a tow plate on a truck if it will never be used for towing....... Would be safer to just fit a recovery point or a class 3 receiver for recovery purposes. Glyn ![]() ![]() |
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x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Many wise words, however as already mentioned. The tow bar is staying so that I can still tow when the need arises.
I actually think the tow bar would be stronger then just a crossmember without a spread plate behind it. What I'm trying to achieve is a combination of keeping the tow bar and have a recovery point which is what my first question was about. I'm trying to utilise the crossmember with keeping the tow bar in place. Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
...on topic....
Take a look at this Professional How To Guide to Recovery! ![]() Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
As above.... using tow bars.... 'might want to also do a youtube search for "Land Rover Destruction"- the same bunch of chavs', 'muppets'.... no offence intended to the rest of you 'chavs', 'muppetss' out there using LR tow brackets/ points.
how about.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ire31FrEAI A company who have several years (since 1974) perfecting recovery in the outback where it REALLY counts and no mention of 'tow bars or mounts'...... more about 'recovery points' To the OP.... I would suggest the same as what I did and speak to a local engineering company and get a spreader plate manufactured that will allow you to mount a recovery point to the chassis above the 'tow' plate. Glyn ![]() ![]() |
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