 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Defenders Breakdown Apparently?! Broken Clutch. |
 
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459   
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Was it the clutch?
Could have been the hydraulic either cylinders or did the slave cylinder push rod punch through the clutch arm. Both are known to happen now and again but not just with LR's Last edited by The Boy on 8th Oct 2012 1:05pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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8th Oct 2012 1:02pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Do you know what the actual fault is? It could be anything from a sudden loss of fluid, which is going to be relatively easy to fix, to a failure of the clutch fork, which is an engine or 'box out job. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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8th Oct 2012 1:04pm |
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| Pierce.M Member Since: 17 Jul 2012 Location: Newcastle Posts: 16 
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To be honest I have just assumed that the clutch has gone, there was no prior sign or tells that there may be any problems with it. I even had it in for a full service / health check just a couple of months ago and everything seemed ok.
By the sounds of it I ought to get someone out to check it before making assumptions. I have very little mechanical knowledge so just assumed that a clutch flat to the floor is a new clutch. Thanks for the replies, will keep the topic updated when i know more. |
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8th Oct 2012 1:22pm |
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| ibexman Member Since: 13 Dec 2008 Location: Essex Posts: 2945
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Sounds like cluch fork
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8th Oct 2012 1:23pm |
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459
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The clutch arm fail has happened to me many years ago in my old 200 but I did manage to get it to the garage but was probably just lucky. If it is just buy one of the re-enforced ones that are not expensive and you will probably never have to worry about it again. If it is one of the cylinders then only buy Land Rover part ones and NOT Britpart.
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8th Oct 2012 1:28pm |
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| Pierce.M Member Since: 17 Jul 2012 Location: Newcastle Posts: 16
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Thanks guys will get someone round to check it over and I'll report back when I know why it failed.
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8th Oct 2012 1:41pm |
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| Pierce.M Member Since: 17 Jul 2012 Location: Newcastle Posts: 16
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Quick update fellas,
I've topped the fluid up as it was near empty (not sure how as it was service a couple of months ago!) and this has raised the clutch ... however you can now only half engage the clutch, it wont push past half way to the floor so I still cant get the car in gear. |
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9th Oct 2012 12:22pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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Slave or master cylinder is kaput. Replace or if the bores are still good fit new seals and then bleed the system. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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9th Oct 2012 12:26pm |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888 
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There are a number of different causes for this, without diagnosing why the clutch pedal goes to the floor you won't know which part(s) you need. There's every chance it's not the clutch itself as you'd expect to lose all drive when the clutch goes and that doesn't sound like what happened to you. As above, slave or master cylinder or possibly the arm has had a hole punched through it. You can drive without a clutch pedal so there was no need for you to be stranded on the road side. The Defender was more than capable of limping home, just that the driver let the Defender down. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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9th Oct 2012 4:02pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20413
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How  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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9th Oct 2012 5:14pm |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888
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It varies slightly from vehicle to vehicle but the basics apply to all. Setting off - make sure the battery is fully charged, if needs be (in stop/start traffic for example) be prepared to take a break with the engine ticking over to charge the battery and let the starter motor cool down. Turn the engine off, put the gearbox into 1st gear (some cars set off smoother in 2nd but 1st is kinder to the starter motor - trial and error is your friend). Uphill starts, definitely 1st, downhill probably 2nd. When you're ready to set off just start the engine, the starter motor will crank the vehicle forward and the engine should start as normal other than the fact you're now moving and you can now drive. Once you're moving you can change gear... Changing gear is easier going up the gears normally but it's a case of matching the revs to the gears. Most gearboxes appreciate a short stop in neutral between gears as it allows the synchro to work better. Assuming you set off in 1st, move the stick to neutral, pause for a second and then slowly but firmly put the box into 2nd while backing off the throttle - you're aiming to match the engine revs with your speed when you're in the new gear. Going down the gears you might find a blip on the throttle before you go into the gear will help - experienced motorcyclists should know how to do that already. Stopping - Approaching junctions or other potential reasons to stop you can either change down the gears (preferred) or if you're feeling lazy just stick the gearbox in neutral and use your brakes. If you change down the gears and don't have to stop you'll be better placed, do it the lazy way and you might have to stop unless you can correctly match your speed to the gear you need. Obviously you'll need to put the gearbox into neutral to stop completely, turn the engine off once/if you come to a standstill and then put the gearbox back into gear ready to set off again. After a bit of practice you can pretty much change gear without crunching noises, it's "just" a case of getting the revs/speed right. Don't change up too early and when changing down try and get the revs to match what they will need to be for the speed you are travelling at in the new gear. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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9th Oct 2012 6:21pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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If the clutch arm had given up the ghost he wouldn't get a bit of pedal after refilling the reservoir  Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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9th Oct 2012 6:28pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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As with so many things practice makes perfect, those used to crash gearboxes and double de-clutching will have the 'feel' Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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9th Oct 2012 6:31pm |
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| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459
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Like driving in a 1950's AEC
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9th Oct 2012 6:46pm |
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