 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > clutch fluid flushing |
 
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| MD5 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Italy Posts: 143  
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I see that clutch fluid on my Puma look gravy and dirty.
How to flush/renew the clutch fluid ? |
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5th Sep 2012 4:20am |
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| MD5 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Italy Posts: 143
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Thanks for the information.
I already flushed the reservoir but I'm a little confused about how to bleed from the slave cylinder, any info please ? |
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5th Sep 2012 5:24am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471  
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Traditional method was to attach a flexible pipe to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, place free end of pipe in a jar which has a quantity of brake fluid making sure end of pipe is immersed in fluid, top up reservoir, get assistant to sit in car and press clutch pedal down while bleed nipple is opened, close bleed nipple while pedal is still down - repeat until all air / dirty fluid has been expelled.
Alternatively use bleed kit which pressurises the hydraulic system and enables the bleed nipple to be opened and fluid to be expelled under pressure. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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5th Sep 2012 9:02am |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015  
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As Steve says,
You can do it on your own but best with 2 people (or 3 if you have the ability). Person 1: Responsible for pumping the clutch pedal and making sure the resevoir doesn't get less than half. Person 2: Responsible for the control of the process and loosesn/ tightens the bleed nipple. Person 3: If available can make sure the resevoir never gets low- therefore letting person 1 chill out with only pedal pushing to do. Gets under the car with a tube that can be poped over the end of a nipple (Bleed nipple not human nipple). the other end of the pipe goes in to a bottle of some sort (empty coke bottle is fine). If you follow the pipe under the vehicle it will have a flex section near along the side of the gearbox which then goes up into a hard pipe- this ends with a 'Banjo type fixing with a bleed nipple (with a rubber cap on it). Put a 10mm ring spanner on it and then the pipe...... turn untill loose. Person 1 now starts pumping the clutch pedal...... fluid will start flowing through the pipe. Keep pumpinguntill it is clear (new fluid). Just make sure that the resevoir doesn't drop low otherwise you will have air in the system and the clutch won't work. Once clear.... Person 2 tells Person 1 to stop and hold. Once the pedal is down and held person 2 then tightens up the bleed nipple. Process complete! Final checks- Resevoir fluid is correct level and there is a good feel on the pedal. *******Just as an after thought there are probably guides on how to do it on youtube and the like.****** Best of luck, 
Glyn   |
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5th Sep 2012 9:26am |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189 
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for a 1 man job use Gunson Ezibleed.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/eezibleed-brake-...fAodWGQAHA as very easy........just don't have too much pressure in the spare tyre  BM52 |
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5th Sep 2012 7:30pm |
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| MD5 Member Since: 02 May 2011 Location: Italy Posts: 143
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Thanks again for how-to informations!
Since I like to work alone I will try to find locally the Gunson Ezibleed or something similar. |
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12th Sep 2012 5:49am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6295  
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any thoughts -
had my 'gravy' - sorry clutch fluid flushed through the other day and was nice n clear when I left garage. a couple of weeks later and it's gravy again? what could cause the contamination - wrong fluid partially shagged the seals and therefore not always getting full clutch action hence occasional poor gear change? if so do the different LR's use different fluids ie mineral, synthetic, dot 2 and 4 etc? and would a replacement gearbox require any action with the clutch fluid ie topping up? |
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20th May 2015 6:08am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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Clutch fluid in all cars seems to go black now days , dont know why
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20th May 2015 7:43pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6295
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seems strange that?
bought some nice new brakes for my MTB and the guys who supplied them put wrong fluid in and trashed all the seals 
discolour is nothing to worry about tho? - thanks. |
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20th May 2015 8:28pm |
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| MR_JAMES Member Since: 10 Oct 2013 Location: ESSEX Posts: 247 
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It looks dark after a few weeks because the cylinder is made of metal and no light can penetrate the sides (like the brake fluid reservoir)
You can only see the top... thats why. If you use a torch you are able to see it's still relatively clear (in my case) I was able to bleed mine on my own about a month ago. Here is my tip - # cut a 13mm spanner in half. It will make it much easier to unscrew the clutch bleed nipple as there are a few things in the way. Just fit your bleed tube onto nipple, unscrew nipple 1/2 a turn. pump pedal slowly down, slowly up 3 times. Top up fluid level. Pump 3 more times. top up fluid. and repeat until you are happy it is flushed. Thats what i did on my own. 1953 80" 1987 mini city e 2011 90" |
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20th May 2015 8:47pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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Must admit it doesnt look nice , but they seems to put up with it ok
in the bottom of the master cylinder there is a kind of sump that the crap sinks in to thats a bit lower then the inlet hole what you can do is use a biggish syringe with a 2-3 inch pipe on to the suck the crap out of the bottom every now and then and also suck out fluid and top up again with fresh fluid , just to keep fluid bit flesher and keep crap to a lower level and easier then climbing underneath and means you can do it more often guessing most will know this but keep fluid away from any paintwork ! Last edited by munch90 on 21st May 2015 9:09am. Edited 1 time in total |
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20th May 2015 8:56pm |
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| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
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Changing the clutch fluid does not seem to be a maintenance check sheet item which seems odd to me?
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21st May 2015 8:57am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558
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by the time it needs changing you need a clutch anyway so when bleeding the new cylinder its changed anyway !!
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21st May 2015 9:13am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6295
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not saying it's right or wrong but I must say it seems strange that the fluid would get contaminated / discoloured so quickly?
anyhow while the gear box is apart for new clutch, extension shaft, spigot bearing etc going to have a new slave cylinder too - don't wanna have to take g.box out again anytime soon. (then hopefully new front axle and shocks all round) - if that doesn't sort things I'm going to move on, enough is enough. |
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25th May 2015 1:20pm |
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