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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Davie - your Td5 is the same age as mine, so I can't see any reason why the two would be different. I also had genuine parts from Rimmers, so should be exactly the same.

Firstly - the small round bushes that go into the two holes in the pedal housing are a very tight fit. They have a little 'clip' moulded into them, so actually compress slightly as they go through the hole and then 'click' into place. You wouldn't get them in with fingers alone I don't think. I used some pliers to force them into place (one side of the pliers on the face of the bush, other side on the back of the metal bracket, so as you close the pliers it forces the bush in - I used some card to protect the face of the bush).

Second - it may sound daft but have you got the spring the right way round? With the coils facing upwards, towards the driver? On mine the new spring has made a pretty significant difference. I've driven it for the first time today and I'd say the weight of the clutch is atleast half of what it was before. Much more comfortable. You definitely need all the bushes in place though, I can't see that it would operate properly without, the spring would just skip around and is likely to pop out.

Hope that helps. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
Post #164025 23rd Aug 2012 7:06pm
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RRUK
Site Supporter


Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2025

United Kingdom 
Great instructions Green Machine, I will be trying this over the weekend, once I have finished doing my heated seats Cool 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #164040 23rd Aug 2012 8:16pm
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daviec1



Member Since: 30 Nov 2010
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 246

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Bonatti Grey
Green - thanks for that. I definitely have got the spring the right way around - it would not go in any other way than what you described.

I will try with the bushes again next dry day (!), but as I mentioned, as there was absolutely no difference in pedal position with or without the original spring attached, am struggling to see exactly what this new spring set up actually does. 2001 TD5 110 DCPU in Bonatti Grey
Post #164067 23rd Aug 2012 9:14pm
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Appleby



Member Since: 03 Apr 2012
Location: Bristol
Posts: 74

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
I did this little mod today and noted a few things.

The bushes/bearings are a very tight fit! Propper pain to get in place. Make sure the spring is round the right way. If you put it in the wrong way you lose about half the travel of the pedal (yes I managed this dont ask how!)

anyway make sure your spring looks like this



(nicked the image from landrover anorak worth a read if you're doing the mod)

and you should be good to go I didn't need to undo the pedal or anything. Just a struggle with pliers on the spring. As Green Machine said get the spring in the pedal first then put it in the bushes!
Post #164074 23rd Aug 2012 10:07pm
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RRUK
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Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2025

United Kingdom 
Well, nothing is ever simple is it? Despite all the great instructions from other people you can bet yours won't go the same way. Sad

Here's how I did mine.

Removed rubber mat and unscrewed the metal retaining strip above the pedals. There are 3 screws on the strip and one more lower dash panel screw towards the door that needs removing so the trim strip will come loose. I had to remove the heater vent to get at one of the screws on the trim.

I also have to remove the door pillar mounted interior light switch plunger, and the lower trim retaining strip, plus the door return plastic cover.

I also then had to unbolt the bonnet release mechanism from the bulkhead as the cable was preventing movement of the rubber matting.

That B Twisted Evil d rubber matting! On mine there is a single piece that does the entire bulkhead from door to door, plus a one piece that moulds itself from both floors and over the gearbox tunnel. It is stiff, awkward and total arse to move out of the way, especially with the handbrake being in the way. I only just managed to move it all to the side to get my hands in.

Next, I removed the existing long spring, very easy.

Then I put the bushes in place. The one on the back of the pedal has to click into place and took some right pressure to get it in, I had to use some adjustable pipe wrench pliers to squeeze it in. There was some cursing there too Shocked

Next fitting the 2 side bushes. AARRRGGHHH. They were hard, but using a pair of pliers they also popped into place with the aid of some WD40. The one thing I noticed though before I started all of this was when I went to trial fit the spring into the bushes they don't fit. I know its meant to be a tight fit but it looked to me like it was never going to go in. I was tempted to ream them out a bit with a drill but decided to leave them. More on that later.

I popped the spring into the bush on the back of the pedal until it clicked into place (hoping I had it the right way round) and then used a piece of wood to press the clutch in fully and wedge it against the seat box.

Getting the 2 sides of the spring into the bushes wasn't that hard but I am still not convinced they are seated inside enough. Maybe they will work themselves in as time goes on, I tried to press them in further with pliers but it didn't seem to do anything.

So, it's all done and I eventually managed to grapple the damned matting back into place and put back all the trim.

The pedal does seem lighter, and only a proper drive will tell but it's not going anywhere right now until I have done the chassis painting and then waxoyling.

Some pics for you:

The parts required:


Click image to enlarge


Side trim and door plunger removed:


Click image to enlarge


Bushes in place:


Click image to enlarge


Finally done:


Click image to enlarge
 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #164343 25th Aug 2012 2:04pm
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jont



Member Since: 02 Apr 2011
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 242

2006 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Santorini Black
Looked on the Rimmer Bros site but couldn't find a 'kit' for the mod - is there a single listing or do I have to order the components separately ?

Thanks

Jon
Post #164348 25th Aug 2012 2:42pm
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RRUK
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Member Since: 31 Mar 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 2025

United Kingdom 
Separately.

Use the part numbers in my photo and search on their site. Make sure you get 2 bushes of DCP 3212L.

Simples. 2016 D4 HSE

1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol
Post #164375 25th Aug 2012 6:42pm
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Gareth



Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 1102

England 
Finally got the spring fitted! It was actually very easy when following the advice to fit it to the pedal first, depress the pedal, then fit the ends to the round bushes. Big difference in clutch feel, and will take some getting used to. 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy
1968 S2a 88 aka Bob
2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged.
Post #165800 1st Sep 2012 5:10pm
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fidocrew



Member Since: 01 Sep 2012
Location: Who knows
Posts: 29

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green
Excellent thread, the tip to depress the pedal made it much easier

The little round bushes wouldn't go in!!

After a bit of huffing and puffing I resorted to cleaning out the holes in the assembly with some rolled up wet and dry. The bushes went straight in after !!

I purchased my kit from E bay for less that £27 including postage

Has made the pedal much lighter
Post #165839 1st Sep 2012 8:31pm
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 738

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
I did this mod yesterday Thumbs Up
Small plastic bushes fitted no problem, "U" shaped bush fitted no problem, but the spring! What a swine that was Shocked until i re-read the info on here and got my lad to press the pedal down, piece of cake then Thumbs Up
Post #166968 8th Sep 2012 6:49am
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Gunner



Member Since: 31 Dec 2010
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 6

I've just done the clutch pedal mod and the difference it makes has to mean it's just over £20 very well spent.

It wasn't as fiddly as I was expecting and thought it was really easy to do.

I found there was absolutely no need to disconnect the clutch pedal nor remove any carpets or rubber matting.

However as it can give easier access when removing the old spring you might want to remove the metal trim strip which is situated between the pedals and heater vent. This trim strip is secured by just 3 or 4 screws and with it removed you can slip your hand behind the matting to give a bit more room if needed.


Then

1/ Remove old clutch spring.

2/ To fit the U bush to the back of the clutch pedal I looped a short length of cord round the bush and just pulled in the direction the bush needs to go . It went in with very little effort.

3/ The two small bushes were simply eased in using a large flat blade screwdriver gently levered against the side of the clutch pedal. Again both bushes went in very easily.

4/ Fit the spring to the clutch pedal first, then keeping the pedal pressed down (it's easier to wedge it than have a helpers leg and foot in the way) use a pair of needle nose pliers to slip the spring ends into the bushes.

5/ Re-fit metal trim strip.
Post #171576 28th Sep 2012 12:40pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
I should probably say hello first, but seeing this thread and I have to say this is probably the best modification I have done to my 2002 110... Truly revolutionised the drive, gear changing and especially so in stop start town driving...

Bow down

Now I shall go and say hello... Mr. Green
Post #182664 6th Nov 2012 6:41pm
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adafish



Member Since: 30 Mar 2009
Location: atherstone
Posts: 1382

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 110 300 Tdi DCPU Stornoway Grey
geobloke wrote:
I should probably say hello first, but seeing this thread and I have to say this is probably the best modification I have done to my 2002 110... Truly revolutionised the drive, gear changing and especially so in stop start town driving...

Bow down

Now I shall go and say hello... Mr. Green
......OI...........fodo, xxxx Putting Dreams on Drives at JLR Solihull..
Post #183354 8th Nov 2012 11:49pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
adafish wrote:
geobloke wrote:
I should probably say hello first, but seeing this thread and I have to say this is probably the best modification I have done to my 2002 110... Truly revolutionised the drive, gear changing and especially so in stop start town driving...

Bow down

Now I shall go and say hello... Mr. Green
......OI...........fodo, xxxx


Hahaha... With the exception of the superb tuning done by IRB developments of course... Silly forgetful me Wink Bow down
Post #183426 9th Nov 2012 11:46am
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Andy Jeff



Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: Suffolk, UK.
Posts: 143

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Chawton White
Gunner wrote:
I've just done the clutch pedal mod and the difference it makes has to mean it's just over £20 very well spent.

It wasn't as fiddly as I was expecting and thought it was really easy to do.

I found there was absolutely no need to disconnect the clutch pedal nor remove any carpets or rubber matting.

However as it can give easier access when removing the old spring you might want to remove the metal trim strip which is situated between the pedals and heater vent. This trim strip is secured by just 3 or 4 screws and with it removed you can slip your hand behind the matting to give a bit more room if needed.


Then

1/ Remove old clutch spring.

2/ To fit the U bush to the back of the clutch pedal I looped a short length of cord round the bush and just pulled in the direction the bush needs to go . It went in with very little effort.

3/ The two small bushes were simply eased in using a large flat blade screwdriver gently levered against the side of the clutch pedal. Again both bushes went in very easily.

4/ Fit the spring to the clutch pedal first, then keeping the pedal pressed down (it's easier to wedge it than have a helpers leg and foot in the way) use a pair of needle nose pliers to slip the spring ends into the bushes.

5/ Re-fit metal trim strip.


Perfect instructions, thanks very much Gunner! Cost less than 20 quid all in (used a britpart spring but genuine bushes!) and took me just 20 minutes from start to finish - Simples! The clutch is now way lighter and I'd recommend anyone try this mod!

Andy.
Post #184108 11th Nov 2012 8:03pm
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