 | Home > My Defender > Mine now - 2003 TD5 90 HT |
 
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10379  
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Yeah, cool truck, glad you ditched the decals. I always like see what youve been up to
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19th Aug 2012 8:50am |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025
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Over the weekend I also topped up one of the front swivels with a one shot grease pack, I thought it might need just a little topping up, but it took 3/4 of the tube.
Dead easy to do once the wheel is removed, turn the steering to full lock so that the open filler plug isn't blocked by the ball itself inside, then just pump it in till it reaches the level of the plug and starts oozing out. (On my old Series 3 when I was 18 I was topping the swivels up every fortnight, the seals were so bad!) When I complete the chassis painting I shall be topping up the other side and checking the diff oil levels too. 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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20th Aug 2012 12:40pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025
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Me likey the lookey of these.
Should help the wiring up of the heated seats go much smoother. Thanks to PaulMc for the kit. More to tell when it's time to fit them.  Click image to enlarge 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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20th Aug 2012 3:32pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025
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Apart from final connections, the heated seats are nearly done.
When its complete I shall do a nice write up for you all with lots of lovely pictures. 2016 D4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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23rd Aug 2012 8:31pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025
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Finally, the heated seats are done and working. I know that a few people on the forum have asked about wiring these up and I was going to get someone in to do mine but was encouraged to have a go.
Here's a summary of what I did and my recommendations: Step 1: Get in touch with forum member PaulMc and ask him to put together his heated seat kit. Paul's knowledge is amazing and he has the skills and know-how to put together a kit that looks as OEM as you can get. Paul can probably supply more parts than I asked for as I'd already sourced the switches and connector blocks that plug into the back of the switches. My kit was about £32 but obviously the more you buy the more it is, and Paul's charges are very reasonable and the quality superb. Paul will send you these items below (Note I bought my green switch connectors elsewhere but he can get them too) Click image to enlarge Don't forget you will also need the actual switches themselves that go in the dash panel. I got mine from Dan @ Duckworths, they look identical but for some reason one is £6 and the other is £26. Go figure. I'm sure PaulMc can supply these too. These look like this:
The green switch blocks need adapting for the switches (LR don't seem to make it easy) All you need to do is slice off the ribs on one side. If you do a trial fit with the switches you can see where it doesn't quite fit. Here is a close up shot of one I have already sliced with a stanley knife. Click image to enlarge I started at the seat end and fixed the body clip behind the seats. here you can see the end male connector that plugs into the seat connector and the body clip which will keep it looking neat and tidy. Click image to enlarge I found that a 9mm hole drilled was the easiest way to mount the body clip. Click image to enlarge Then put the body clip in and then connected the seat up. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I did the same for both sides and then started to route the sleeved cables under the matting and towards the gearbox tunnel. Note that if like me you disconnected the seat base connector from the seat back connector, they are colour coded with some yellow tape. Just put the 2 yellow ones together and you are left with one to plug into the new loom you have from PaulMc. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge As I routed the sleeves forward I continue to hide it under the matting and over the top of the gearbox tunnel. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Once over the gearbox tunnel I routed the sleeves up the centre of the bulkhead, there is a gap inbetween the matting that goes up behind the fuses. Click image to enlarge Once the wires are up behind the dash they can be pulled through the stereo aperture and you can get to wiring stuff in. I started by putting the fuse bar feed in. In theory this should be placed in fuse No 33, however mine didn't have any power cables in the fuse bar after fuse no 32 (heated windscreen) so I decided that as I didn't have a heated windscreen and was unlikely to get one, I would use this fuse instead. The green cable you can see here is the positive feed that will go to the switches. Click image to enlarge Once all the wires are fed through you can start to connect things up. Paul gave me the following advice about which wires and where to go in the back of the switch blocks. The switch connectors are wired, as follows - Terminal 1 - Live in from fusebox Terminal 2 - Dash illumination Terminal 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Terminal 5 - Earth) Terminal 4 - Live out to seat heaters Terminal 5 - Earth If you look at the hinged terminal lock on the back of the switch connector, the terminal numbers are moulded into it. They're also on the switches, by each pin. On the factory installation, both seat heater earths go back to an eyelet bolted to the bottom panel of the driver's side under-seat locker (the one with the engine ECU in it). The earth point is C0809 - if you have RAVE. As your cables are sleeved up to behind the dash facia, you could take the earths to an earth header, or the main earthing point on the bulkhead in the engine bay - C0550, or it's mounting bolt - C0434 You could just unsleeve the earths and take them to an earth point on the seat box. In the factory installation, illumination and earth for the switches is taken from a distribution header behind the facia - C0296, the wires from which, also have inline splices in the loom to split the illumination feed to more than one switch. C0296 is a peculiar little Blue header connector, that isn't easy to connect into. Personally, I've used a Sumitomo 20-way header splice connector as a distribution point for additional switch illumination lives and earths (I have these listed on the 'for sale' board) but, for only a couple of additional switches, this is probably a bit over-kill. You could do as you've suggested and take both switches illumination and earth from another adjacent switch. The switch illumination is LED, so each switch only draws a tiny current - the wiring to one switch is more than capable of feeding several switches. The Orange LED that shows that the switch is 'on', is fed from the output side of the switch, so it will light-up when the switch is pressed-in, regardless of whether the seat heaters are actually working or not. Click image to enlarge I found a good thick earth cable from another switch behind the centre dash for the earthing of the seats and switches, and also took a feed off another switch for the switch illumination. They all seem to be colour coded the same, a sort of 2 tone orange. I found the hardest part was crimping the terminals that go into the back of the switch blocks, but only because I didn't have an expensive and good set of crimpers, I only had a Halfords set. So the finished look of the crimps was not brilliant but it was effective and solid. I almost wish I had just bought a decent set of crimpers though as I like these things to be perfect. Apparently a perfectly decent set can be bought from Polevolt. Once the switches are connected to the switch blocks, you can turn on ignition and try them out, switch on the sidelights and check the illumination works too. The circuit needs a 20A fuse. In the dark it should look like this: Click image to enlarge There's quite a lot of fiddly stuff to do that I haven't detailed verbatim, but feel free to ask questions, or better still, ask PaulMc! He is a gem and you'd be mad not to use his skills and get the kits from him. If I had paid an auto electrician I'm sure I would have been up to £100 or more but for about £45 in parts and some labour of my own, it's all done. Very chuffed indeed.  2016 D4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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24th Aug 2012 8:46pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025
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Also done the clutch pedal spring modification today as per this thread:
Makes for a much easier pedal now: http://www.defender2.net/forum/post164343.html#164343 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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25th Aug 2012 2:06pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025
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A very productive weekend it has been
As you've already read, I finished the heated seats off. This was then followed by putting back the Alpine head unit which was sent back for repair. Nothing major, just the pop-off screen would no longer pop off, turns out the spring was dislodged in it's mechanism. It's all good now and the stereo is all working as it should. Then the clutch modification was done, and even though all I have done is move the car on the driveway it is SO much lighter than before, in fact I now have to readjust to the new feel of the clutch bite! I'd already started to paint the chassis and axles with satin finish black Hammerite, taking the wheels off for better access and sticking it up on axle stands. I used 2 tins of paint applied with the brush and also 2 aerosols for the hard to reach bits. It's incredibly satisfying to give the metal a good coat of paint. My chassis is in amazing condition and only had some light surface rust to it so it's a great time to coat it. By this moring the Hammerite had gone off and I was ready to do Waxoyl. I wanted to do the injecting of the clear stuff first but the special tube that fits onto the high pressure gun has a fault and wouldn't fit. Wish I'd know that before today as I've had the damned kit for months now!  Lesson learnt there.
So, I did the exterior black Waxoyl instead. I had warmed them in a bucket of hot water for an hour to aid viscosity: NOTICE! The black stuff expanded and squirted out past the screw in top and contaminated my bucket of water and ruined my car washing bucket! DOH! Oh well, once I had mopped up the spillage with a brush and applied to various parts of the chassis I put the sprayer in and set to it. I was lucky to have kept some builders grade plastic sheeting from some work we had done and I knew one day, it would come in handy. Today was that day. So I laid it all out in the garage and drove onto it. This stuff gets everywhere so I advise a belt and braces approach. Long sleeves, crappy clothes you won't mind throwing away or a throw away coverall, and plenty of gloves. I go through those latex gloves on jobs like these like they are going out of fashion. (Think I need better quality ones) Please wear goggles and if you can, some sort of face mask, as the spray gets everywhere. Cover your hair! You might look a prize Herbert but it's worth it. I forgot the hat and now I will have rust free hair! 
Anyway, one of the big round tins will easily do the entire car (90) and would probably be enough for a 110 too. We all know it's a bit of a strain crawling under a Defender, your neck gets a right workout, but I got in all the hard to reach areas and even did the bits that don't need rustproofing but make the wheelarches look nicer. I am SO pleased it is done, I will do the internals in a few weeks time but for now I know that chassis and axles are thoroughly protected. Here's some pics of the work although it looks (and smells) better in the flesh 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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26th Aug 2012 6:37pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025
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I love talking to myself ....
 2016 D4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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26th Aug 2012 6:38pm |
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248  
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You're not
Reading with interest. One question if I may, how is the stereo panel attached to the rest of the console ? I need to remove mine in the next couple of weeks and don't fancy ripping all the dash top etc out to remove the centre console. Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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26th Aug 2012 6:49pm |
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| couplands Member Since: 31 Aug 2011 Location: Peak District & Cornwall Posts: 1826 
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I'm listening, and you've done a great job..!
I've got 100 quids worth of Dinitrol waiting to do my TD5 90, so pleased to see what others have done. Planning on doing the heated seats and sound proofing too. Also want a heated screen, so just waiting for your "how to" on that little job...
Cheers Simon |
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26th Aug 2012 6:52pm |
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248
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I'm waiting for the clutch change how to, mine will need doing soon
Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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26th Aug 2012 7:01pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20294
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I have been reading too for a long time
I think you've been doing a great job so far. âï¸âï¸God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 âï¸âï¸ |
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26th Aug 2012 7:03pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8005  
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this is a good thread. its nice to see things done see well. even the dog looks happy (and fit!) Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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26th Aug 2012 7:16pm |
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| RRUK Site Supporter Member Since: 31 Mar 2010 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 2025
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AHA! Input input!! (as Johnny 5 would say) On the TD5 centre dash the DIN panel in the centre which holds the head unit has 2 fairly weak spring clips, one on each side and then two thin but hard springs, top and bottom that really retain the panel, and they are a bit of a pig to get out, it feels like you are going to break it, but you won't. The spring is about 3 inches across and in a W shape, made of wire. hard to describe. Let me see if I can find a picture to illustrate: Here you go, this is what it looks like:
Click image to enlarge 2016 D4 HSE 1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF 1982 Series 3 SWB Petrol |
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26th Aug 2012 7:17pm |
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